Glow igniter is comming on .im getting just under 3.0 volts to saftey valve assembley. should i hear my gas valve click.because i dont . what is the sequence of operation ,and wheres the flam sensor. m#jgbs22bea2wh, thanks
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Is there any possibility that the gas supply got shut off some how. One other strange possibility I will explain but I have never seen this happen to both ignitors at the same time. In some rare cases the ignitors can actually change internal resistance. Instead of a nice orange glow they will actually glow hotter towards a white orange color. They look good and get hot, but the internal resistance is not correct to open the safety valve. Only way to tell in this case is to replace one of the glow bars/ignitors and see if that part of the system works.
Is the gas turned on at the stop valve behind the range? Assuming the gas is on, the igniter can glow but not actually be working properly such that the control valve does not open or the valve may be failed. There are electrical measurements for the valve and igniter and related circuit that can be made if you have a clamp on amp meter and a volt meter.
This can be caused by a weak/inop hot surface igniter or a defective gas control valve. First you will need to verify that the hot surface igniter is coming on(you should see it glow in the burner compartment). If it is not glowing then you will need to verify that the wiring harness has voltage to it when the oven thermostat is on. Also check the igniter for any cracks or damage and if found then replace the igniter. If it is glowing then one thing that you can try(be very careful doing this) is to give the gas control valve a light tap with something hard like a wrench when the oven is turned on and the igniter is glowing but the burner is not on. You will need to remove the broiler/storage drawer at the bottom of the oven. Once you pull the drawer out you should see the gas control valve at the back of the range. Try turning on the oven and lightly tapping the valve housing after the igniter is fully on. This may loosen up any debris inside the control valve housing that might be causing the problem. If the oven burner comes on then try completely turning the oven on and back of several times. And when I say completely I mean turn it on after the igniter is not glowing and burner has shut off. This works about 30% of the time. If the burner control valve sticks again after trying this procedure then it could be the control valve and/or the hot surface igniter defective. The hot surface igniter would need to be disconnected from it's harness and tested with an OHM meter. Most igniters should have a 500 to 700 OHM reading. If you get a reading that is way off then the igniter is defective and replace it. If the igniter tests good then the gas control valve is suspect and replace it. Most appliance parts retailers will test your igniter for free. When the igniter is on it should glow very brightly. If it is dim then that is a sure sign it is bad. You can also verify that the oven run-away valve is not closed. This valve will be located at the back bottom of the range at the gas regulator. There will be a tab on the regulator housing where the gas pipe goes to the oven. This tab will lift up to close gas flow to the oven. Sometimes these valves can stick causing the oven to stop working. You can try moving this tab back and forth to see if it loosens any debris in the valve. Move the valve while the oven is on and you will be able to hear the burner come on after moving the valve if that was the problem.
I take it the range is electric ignition because you say the top burners have a clicking(igniter) noise. If the top burners are electric ignition then the oven is also. The oven probably uses a hot surface igniter and that is why you do not hear any clicking. Turn the oven on and open the broiler compartment. You should see a bright glow from the hot surface igniter. If you do not see any glow there may be a grounding issue or the igniter could be bad. If you do see a glow but the burner does not come on in a few minutes then give the gas valve a tap with a wrench and see if the burner comes on. Shut it off and then back on several times. If the burner continues to light after this you may have fixed the problem. If it does not come on gas valve could be sticking or igniter is weak.
The technical jargon is,.....:
In order for your gas oven to work this is what has to happen: 1. when you turn on the oven, the range sends 120 volts to the glow bar igniter. 2. as the igniter heats up (and starts to glow) it starts using more electricity. 3. when the electric use reaches a set amount (say 3.2 amps) the range knows the glow bar igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas, so it then releases gas through the gas safety valve. 4. when the thermostat tells the oven controller that the temperature has been reached, the control cuts power to the igniter, cutting the amp draw down, causing the safety gas valve to close. 5. process repeats to hold oven temp until you turn off oven.
So,..........the solution is:
most likely your oven igniter burnt out. Find your model number, usually on the range frame just behind the lower drawer or broiler drawer (depending on if it is a self clean gas range or not) and order the correct igniter and replace it.
In many cases, even if the igniter is glowing, the resistance may not be low enough to turn on the gas valve. (It's the igniter that actually controls the gas valve) The igniter has probably gone bad. ($50.00 to $90.00 for igniter)
The ignitor should be almost a white hot color very bright . If it is orange or kinda reddish, the ignitor probably isn't getting hot enough to open the saftey valve. you could check the amp draw on ignitor , but most of the time if the ignitor isn't glowing bright almost white , that is probably the problem, besides that if and only if ignitor was good then i would look at the saftey valve. My money is on the ignitor.:)
I suspect you may have a bad igniter. They will still glow nice and hot, but if they are weak the gas valve will not open. This is actually a safety feature. Depending on which type you have, the glow bar igniter is supposed to draw a certain current potential before the gas valve will open. Here's the current readings for both types:
Round Glow Bar: 2.7 to 3.2 amps
Square Glow Bar: 3.2 to 3.7 amps
I would try to to determine if the igniter is good or bad before proceeding with a gas valve replacement. Generally, the igniter is a common fail item. Let me know if this helps.