a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You can find the tonnage in the model number which increases by increments of 12, so if the model number is 24 =2 tons. Model number on your a/handler is 17. Thats a ton and a half. Really should match the evap and condenser for the best efficiency. ...
John from one service man to another, most of the time I have seen that many transformers fail is when there is bare wires touching somewhere from the outdoor unit to the air handler. This cause a small short in the circuit. Usually its when there is a crawl space under the house or even when the wiring is up in the attic. I have seen birds, squirrels, dogs and even rats chew thru thermostat wire. Hope this helps you . Have you thought about putting a small 5 amp fuse in series with "C" on the thermostat?
Hello,,there is a way to comfirm that but you will need a meter that reads microfarads, after discharging the capacitor with a insulated screwdriver you simply put you meter leads to each terminal on the capacitor with tje meter set to microfarads, if the capacitor is good it should read the same microfarad reading thats printed on the capacitor, if not replace the capacitor.
unfamiliar with watt restrictors.
heat strips have 2 safety devices, a thermal overload, they get to hot they shut off, cause not enough air flow increase fan speed this device is auto reset. a fusible link a fail safe to thermal over load, no reset and sometimes replaceable. if this does not help would like to ask you a few questions. one of the buildings i take care of has 200 + reem/ ruuds all electric heat. if a part is defective replace, please do not by pass. safety frist.
you remove the screws that hold on the base plate that has the sequencers mounted on it. pulling it out so the elements clear the sides of the unit. once you remove it you can easily see the heating element coils which you can purchase a restring kit fairly cheap at your local appliance parts store. just remember to stretch it out uniformally the same length as the old one, reinstall the heat kit the same way you removed it. kit comes with new ceramic gromets if some are damaged. these units do have a 5 yr warranty on the heat strips.
hey brad first you need to indentify wich is your supply and wich is the return after you have done that the filter is allways on your retun side however not allways is the filter set up at the air handler sometimes its in a duct sytemn on the ceeiling or wall hope you find it
Does the fan on the outdoor condensing unit come on when the compressor does? If so, Is the condenser coil clean so that the airflow from the fan can remove heat from the condenser coil so the compressor won't overheat and trip the internal overload compressor protection circuit? If yes then is the indoor evaporator fan working properly? If yes are your filters clear and evaporator coil clear so that adequate air is flowing over the coil to prevent the compressor low pressure protection circuit from tripping? If so is the refrigerant charge on the system correct- either overcharged or undercharged can trip the compressor protection circuit. By now you should have come across an explanation for your compressor short cycling. If I had to guess I would bet on inadequate airflow over the condenser coil do to a faulty condenser fan motor either not turning at all or turning for a few minutes and then stopping when it overheats. This is likely caused by an unsealed replacment motor being used outdoors and water/rust has accumulated over the winter season and/or the capacitor is bad (in this case the motor may be turning slowly backwards) or just plain old worn out. I hope this helps get you to cold air sometime soon GL!
I think what you are trying to ask is should you use a 2 stage thermostat or stick with a single and just double the stages on a relay to work at the same time. As long as the relay can handle the amp load, there is no real need for a 2 stage heat system, unless you are concerned by the efficiency of $$. If I am missing the question please reply.