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Re: our fridge door won't close properly
The door hinges have nylon bushings/washers to help them work smoothly. If the unit is very old and had a lot of use (like a large family) the bushings or washers could be just worn away. This also is indicated if the doors seem to be misaligned. If the doors don't seem out of place, it could just be that the unit is not sitting on a level surface, causing the box to twist and the doors th therefore bind. Other possibilities: The door is burdened heavily with the milk, juices, food, etc. and therefore is just plain heavy. You have a "water-thru-the-door" unit and some leak has occurred to fill the door and it's insulation with water. (eww!) Check to see that the surface is level, and that the door fits correctly. Make replacements or adjustments as necessary. Lighten the load on the door, or fix the leak.
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For most Kenmore, GE and Hotpoint SidebySide Door Models: You will need Part# WR13X10020 (Hinge Bottom Pin & Cam) to repair the "door will not close" problem. Check-out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjN8yenlECY for step by step repair. This is a very simple fix!
Just fixed this problem with my Kenmore. Remove the bottom hinge and the nylon washer on the stud that sticks up that goes into the bottom of the door. Put 2 - 9/16" i.d.x 1" o.d. washers on the stud and put the nylon washer back on top of these, and put the hinge back on. It will work perfectly after this. The washers come in different thicknesses so you'll have to mix and match until you get the ones that raise the door enough so it will close properly with out pushing it. This wasn't a leveling problem the door just didn't close properly without a push because it was hanging to low.
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The hinges usually have some adjustment on them. Two person job, or put something under the bottom of the door to support it. Loosen the hinges a bit, pull the door forward at the hinge which should close the gap on the other side. Tighten down the hinges and check again.
This is quite often caused by several factors ...
1] Worn door seals [REPLACE them] ...
2] Rusted door PINS [in older units] and/or worn PLASTIC BUSHES that support these pins [REPAIR or REPLACE them] ...
3] MISALIGNED and/or WARPED door [mostly in older units and/or if the kids hang off the door (especially young children) over an extended time ...
MOST doors are easily removed [but some are quite heavy and/or have electrical wiring/water lines etc. inside] so be careful. Usually you will need to remove the TOP hinge [screws usually under cover-plate] and then gently raise and lift-off the door from its bottom hinge pin. If you lift up the rubber door seal edge you will usually find a series of screws underneath. Just undo these to remove the inner shelf/door lining to replace the door seals. You can buy ready-made replacement seals from most major manufacturers and DIY ... or you can get a tradesman to do this for you [companies such as "SEAL A FRIDGE" can be found in your local phone directory or on-line] ...
it may be necessary to reset the hinge adjustment to move the door further across the opening giving the magnets a better area to hold on to . there is a slight amount of adjustment in the mounting points of the hinges. You may have to replace the door gaskets as they become hard over time and the magnets cannot work properly in the hard plastic
slightly loosen the bolts on the hinges enough to scoot the door into the correct position and it will stay until you tighten the bolts on the hinges. It may take a couple of tries but that is the way to do it until the door seals and closes properly =)
If it is a drop down door with hinges on the bootom of the oven door, then it is likely to be weak door hinge springs, the usual solution is to replace both hinges.
If it is a swing open door, then the problem is related to a worn or broken door catch, or worn striker pin.
The door closing can be a couple things. The door can be sagging. This can be fixed at the hinge pins. It can be overloaded with heavy things, causing the bottom to twist outward, this can be fixed by not storing as much weight in the door. And it could be the door seal. Replacement is required, if it doesn't have the elasticity that it should. I would try the first two things first, the door seals are not cheap. When it is fully aligned, close the door on a dollar bill. It should have a little resistance when pulling it out The more, the better.
The freezer light could just be a stuck switch in the door. Condensation can get in it and freeze when the door shuts, holding the switch in the off position.
If this is listed under the right model, then the only thing it could be is some models have a door alarm,that will beep if the door is not closed. You could check and clean the gasket. Or it the switch that tells the fridg that the door is closed. Check if there is a top door adjustment to bring the door closer to the fridge where the door hinge is. This might apply or push on the switch more.
Even if you do not realise it most people lean on the door as they open it, to rectify with the door open but almost in the closed position lift the door by pulling up on the door catch end, this will straiten the hinge, very common problem
take door off and pack bottom hinge with washers. make sure hingebrackets on cabinet are tight.
however, door hanging a bit should not really affect sealing. if seal is gapping, one solution is to warm with a hairdryer and pull outwards gently