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The throttle plate is spring loaded to pull wide open, opposed by the governor which will pull the throttle closer to closed when the limited or specified rpms are reached. If the governor arm does is not connected to the throttle bell crank(linkage broken, off, or missing), it can't pull the throttle closed. If the arm does not move to close the throttle, the governor is likely broken inside the crankcase. or needs adjustment. The internals are a spool that moves based on rpm, pulled up by flyweights that has the external governor arm shaft 'trapped' in between the spool 'ends'. The spool will move the shaft and in turning, move the arm to pull the throttle closed. You adjust the arm on the shaft so the governor can pull the throttle completely closed with all the slack taken up.
If the mower starts easily and runs well but surges, the problem is not your carburetor! There is an arm coming from the crank case that links to the carburetor throttle arm with a small rod (the rod has a spring around it). That is your throttle governor. Loosen the nut where the governor arm meets the shaft going into the crank case, set the throttle to full throttle and using a pliers, twist the governor arm (coming out of the crank case to full open (twisting the shaft in the same direction that the governor arm would twist it when you go to full throttle). Tighten the governor arm nut without changing that setting... don't let the governor arm move or let the governor arm shaft (coming out of the crank case ) move or the setting will be wrong. ( I know... a third hand would be useful to hold the governor arm to keep it from moving). You may have to make that adjustment a few time to get it right.
Somtimes with manual gear boxes the clutch shaft wears in the spigot bearing / bush in the crank shaft or flywheel. It may be necessary to apply force evenly around the bell housing to remove the rust build up on this shaft. If you have a pull type clutch plate ( the only reason for the release arm getting tight) it will be necessary to release this arm from its pivot point first . Check the manual for this proceedure.
If you have already tried (flammable) penetrating oil, you may not want to use heat to expand it. You could try threading the but back onto the cotter key until it is flush with the bolt, so you can tap it lightly without damaging the tip.
Here's an article in the Lexmark website on How to Replace the Maintenance Kit Parts on an Optra T Laser Printer. Just click on this link: http://bit.ly/95cW2R. Scroll down for the instructions on how to replace the fuser unit. Hope this helps.
i assume you mean crank shaft sensor ,if its not on the front puilley then look around the bell housing in the most extreme awkard in accessable position possible because you can bet that is where it is