Question about Kenmore 53642 / 53644 Side by Side Refrigerator

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No cooling on eather side

Compressor isn't working, getting voltage,relay,cap., and overload test good, comp. OHMs out good. is it possible to jump start the comp by hooking black to com on comp. white to run and jump white to start for just a sec. to see if comp. will start?

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  • Master
  • 585 Answers

No, white to com, black to the run terminal, and to the start through the capacitor. I suggest you also have a 15-amp fuse or breaker in the line for protection. Given that you say the relay, cutout, and cap check out, and you say there is continuity through the compressor, I have to think that there is a high-resistance connection in the circuit that feeds the compressor. Suspect bad connection at the thermostat or the defrost timer. Be careful, and work with one hand behind you back so you do not receive a dangerous shock.

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

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2 Answers

My Ge gsl25jftabs will not cool. I replaced the overload start relay and mother board. Compressor still will not start. What should I try next, the thermistor and temp sensor?


Hello Katie;

My name is Peter; I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

Start with the source. The Compressor. You need a multi-meter.

Remove the overload relay. On the compressor are 3 steel pins. With your meter set on the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol), Put one meter lead on one pin and the other meter lead on the other pin. Mark down your reading. Take readings between the three pins and record them. You will get one high reading and two lower readings. Add the two lower readings together. If the compressor is good that number should equal the higher reading within a few tenths.

Next, I would have checked the thermostat. This is mounted on the top of your evaporator (Cooling) coil. This component tells the compressor when to turn on. It is difficult to determine if it is bad.
At times the thermostat will explode and the back of it will raise up. In this case you know it is bad. The other way you must cut it off, leave some wire length so you can rewire in back in, put it in a glass of ice water for about 10 minutes. Take a Ohm reading on the two leads. You should get about 16 Ohms. Be careful, the fins on the coil are razor sharp.
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Then, I would have gone to the control board. I do not know if the control board you put in is good. You received it in a anti-static silver bag. Before you touch it you need to ground your self by touching bare steel. Static electricity will knock out a board.

Dec 19, 2014 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Low voltage at compressor!


My parts lookup too has no images available for you refrig but i believe it to be a GE Profile with a fresh food fan (and air duct down the center of the fresh food side). All fan motors are 12vdc and run off the Lowvoltage side of motherboard. i assume you are checking voltage to comp from motherboard? How did you check relay?? Have you axcessed motherboard?? On the top of (I say top-- i belive its mounted horiz on yours but all the small wires are on the right) is all the low voltage fan motor, damper, control wiring On the bottom (or the left) side of the motherboard is the larger line voltage wiring. The connector with 3 wires is labeled def -- comp---line it should be blue. Try jumping L1 to comp. ((Just so ya know Def will energize the def heater regardless of compartment temp it does have a bimetal but it only a safety set at 100deg in case relay on board welds shut---it monitor evap compartment, frz, fresh food, (two seperate in FF) in your model))

Oct 11, 2007 | GE PSI23MGN Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

It clicks on and off every 20 seconds and doesnt cool


remove the rear lower panel behind the unit,unplug the ptc overload/relay off the compressor and take an ohm meter and from the single pin on the compressor to each terminals above or below the single pin test these one at a time they should each resd 5-10 ohms each,then the 2 pins side by side test these 2,this should read 7-15 ohms,any readings much below these readings constitute a shorted compressor,then from each pin separately to the case of the compressor,you should read no resistance or the compressors windings are shorted to ground,if these readings are within above specs then replace the ptc overload/relay and capacitor and it will again cool

Dec 11, 2012 | Haier Refrigerators

1 Answer

Refrigerator isn't getting cold anymore


Check if the compressor is running. If not, test for power to the compressor. If the compressor feels very hot, and you hear something clicking, then you probably need a new starting relay which is inside a little box on the side of the compressor. You might have to wait several minutes for the compressor to cool off before it will do its next "click-on" and "click-off" thing. If the compressor is cool, and there is power going to the relay, the overload (next to the relay) could be "open" (no continuity).

Sep 07, 2011 | Beverage-Air CT96Y1B (6.8 cu. ft.)...

3 Answers

The compressor clicks but it stops in like 30 seconds so it does not cool the refrigerator and freezer model # MZD2665hew


Hi,

It could be the problem with the compressor itself that's why the OLP(overload protector) kicks on after a few second because it sensed high current flowing to its line. You have to check the resistance of the compressor. It has 3 terminal, check the 3 resistance reading using the multimeter to confirm if the compressor is already faulty. It must be more than 2 ohms per reading...

Jdvillanueva

Sep 05, 2011 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

Does not make cold, main compartment or freezer, replaced "relay/overload" capacitor (?) but still cycles/clicks off and on - lights on and motors run but no cold.


if clicking off and on I would say . the relay is working but the compressor is not starting . if comp will not start ( no cold ) the fan by the comp runs when the comp runs / but if comp does not start the fan does not know .. if comp runs the lines one is small and other is larger . the small one gets hot enough not to touch.it . not hot no cool . I think you have a compressor problem .. **** hope this helps . get back with me .. //mm

Jan 06, 2010 | Amana ABB1921DE Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

Whirlpool Side by side


One of two things: low voltage due to voltage drop in your power service, or you replaced the start relay with the wrong part. Put the old relay back in, and check voltage at the outlet when it's running. I think you'll find your problem if you haven't yet damaged the compressor.

Jul 07, 2009 | Whirlpool GS5SHAXN Side by Side...

1 Answer

Refrigerator Compressor hot to touch & fridge/freezer not cooling


you need to do an amp draw with your meter,clamp the run wire on the compressor,you should get 2-5 amp reading,any higher means the compressor is going bad,also should be a locked rotor amp(LRA) reading on comp.-mike

Nov 04, 2008 | Kenmore 53542 / 53544 Side by Side...

1 Answer

No cooling at all


i'm suspecting a defective relay/overload on the compressor

to test remove the rear cover, the locate the compressor there should be two wires to it (with power off disconnect them)after that, hook them to the voltmeter leads and carefully plug in the fridge make sure the wires don't touch and verify if you have voltage if so, relay overload is defective after changing and unit still won't power it's the compressor. hope to be of some assistance also on the main board theres a high voltage side you can check voltage from L1 and comp terminal (i think that what there labled, i worked on one some time back) there should be 120 there if not suspect a faulty board , contact if you need more info i could send you a service manual in pdf that i have that could assist you. e-mail's hvac.tech7872pr@gmail.com

Aug 22, 2008 | GE GSS25JFPCC / GSS25JFPWW Side by Side...

4 Answers

GE Refrigerator Compressor Inop.


I found this post by searching on the capacitor number, JSU21X126AQC. My 2001 Kenmore refrigerator (don't have model# here) compressor didn't run, but I heard it hum for a few seconds and then a click. That's the Klixon overload doing its job. I measured resistance of the compressor leads same as original poster. This lead me to determine that the windings were not open or shorted. The wiring to the compressor also fed the condenser fan, and it was running, so power was at least all the way to the compressor.
What I did find was that the 12uF capacitor was only 4uF. My digital volt meter has a capacitor check range. This compressor circuit is a permanent split capacitor type. Without the proper capacitance, the compressor can't start. I replaced it with a 10uF, 220v AC capacitor I had, and now it runs fine. I wonder how many refrigerators are scrapped because of this inexpensive problem?

Jan 22, 2008 | Frigidaire 20.6 cu. ft. Top Freezer...

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