Question about Zanussi IZ12 Front Load Washer

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5 month old washing machine wont wash will spin and empty

Water going into wrong drawer

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If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

  • If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.


  • If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

  • The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


  • The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.


  • A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)


  • The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.


  • The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.


  • The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.


It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

Posted on Aug 20, 2009

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Top 10 frontload washer problems

1)Water fill problem: water took more than 10 minutes to fill to desired level sometimes indicated as a LF/IE or long fill/inlet error. Water valve screens clogged, hoses kinked, low water pressure, unpaid water bill. Check hose, clean screens.
2)Excessive vibration: noisey,roar, knocking noises. Bad damper,bearing or broken trunion. no error code
3)Dispenser drawer open/detergent in wrong compartment: washer will not operate with drawer open or cleaning products in wrong compartment.
4)Washer won't drain: clogged pump/filter, slow or clogged drain usually indicated as a LD/DE, if a code is given (long drain/drain error) Clear pump of objects
5)Drum overfilled: usually caused by sediment in the water level pressure sensing tube going up to the main control.Find it and blow out the sediment, re-secure pump out water and retry.
6)Door open, Door not latched, clothes/objects keeping door from completly closing. Tighten door latch, add washers if nessesary to make good contact and close door tighter in case of leaks.Note some models send a sig nal to the motor and another to the control letting both know the door is secure before proceeding, corrosion gets into the lid lock and the door can be locked and the control is ready but the motor ain't getting the message.
7)Cold water does not enter washer: hoses connected backwards. Oops.
8)Oversudsing: Wrong Detergent, too much detergen, detergent in wrong dispensing drawer, turbidity monitors pick up particles in the water and judge soil content then the washer allows for extra time to wash the clothes, if the wrong detergent is in there the machine thinks that is too much and declares a suds error. On some models a suds detect is determined by the motor over amping, most machines will try a few mini loads to correct the problem. Remove detergent, retry
9)Locked motor: error LE,loose connection,broken wire/hallsensor, motor overheated/failed.
10)Water heating error, hE, the termister/heater is out.

Your repair Manual with photos and tech data HERE
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Top 10 frontload washer problems

1)Water fill problem: water took more than 10 minutes to fill to desired level sometimes indicated as a LF/IE or long fill/inlet error. Water valve screens clogged, hoses kinked, low water pressure, unpaid water bill. Check hose, clean screens.
2)Excessive vibration: noisey,roar, knocking noises. Bad damper,bearing or broken trunion. no error code
3)Dispenser drawer open/detergent in wrong compartment: washer will not operate with drawer open or cleaning products in wrong compartment.
4)Washer won't drain: clogged pump/filter, slow or clogged drain usually indicated as a LD/DE, if a code is given (long drain/drain error) Clear pump of objects
5)Drum overfilled: usually caused by sediment in the water level pressure sensing tube going up to the main control.Find it and blow out the sediment, re-secure pump out water and retry.
6)Door open, Door not latched, clothes/objects keeping door from completly closing. Tighten door latch, add washers if nessesary to make good contact and close door tighter in case of leaks.Note some models send a sig nal to the motor and another to the control letting both know the door is secure before proceeding, corrosion gets into the lid lock and the door can be locked and the control is ready but the motor ain't getting the message.
7)Cold water does not enter washer: hoses connected backwards. Oops.
8)Oversudsing: Wrong Detergent, too much detergen, detergent in wrong dispensing drawer, turbidity monitors pick up particles in the water and judge soil content then the washer allows for extra time to wash the clothes, if the wrong detergent is in there the machine thinks that is too much and declares a suds error. On some models a suds detect is determined by the motor over amping, most machines will try a few mini loads to correct the problem. Remove detergent, retry
9)Locked motor: error LE,loose connection,broken wire/hallsensor, motor overheated/failed.
10)Water heating error, hE, the termister/heater is out.


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1 Answer

Help with drawer for fabric softener


Take out the drawer and clean the compartment and pipe at the end of the drawer with hot soapy water - washing up liquid works well. Clean all around it. Use a pipe cleaner, cotton buds or piece of coiled curtain wire to ensure that the U shaped pipe is clear of obstruction. Pull it back and forward to dislodge any accumulated fabric conditioner. To show this is working OK, put it in the sink and fill up the compartment with water until it is overflowing then stop. The water should drain out of the compartment on its own.

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