Question about T & S Brass T&S Brass B-0228 Deck Mixing Faucet - Less Nozzle

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I have a commercial T & S Brass Faucet that leaks. I have replaced the washers with different sizes ( 0, 00, etc) and still drips. I think I'll try the Beveled type, but would love for someone to tell me the exact washer. The valve seat looks ok but....? I dont have a model # but it is in a commercial kitchen, Swivel type, two levers ( hot, cold) 8 " center to center. T & S Brass is all I can read on faucet. any suggestions?

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  • courtney335 Dec 31, 2008

    I sanded the seats and went with a beveled washer, as you suggested, and the faucet does not leak. Thank you VERY much

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The seat probably need either ground flat or replaced. Pull the stem and inspect where the washer seats for grooves or an uneven surface.

They make a seat tool specifically for seat removal but a fairly large allen wrench usually will work if you don't have access to one. If it's not too deep of a groove you can rub it on a piece of fine grit sand paper but make sure it's flat on the surface and not slanted. If it's very deep at all, you will be better off to take it to the local plumbing supply to match it for replacement.

As far as the washer, T&S used slightly different sizes of washers depending on the model but just use the largest one that will fit inside the lip and flush with the bottom of the stem and it will seat well. I generally have better luck with the beveled.


Posted on Dec 20, 2008

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Hansgrohe axor repair


follow this steps and fix it. God bless you
f a faucet leaks, replace seals and gaskets . If a shower head leaks, create a better seal or replace seals.
If a sillcock wears out, replace the washers .
If a compression faucet drips from the spout, replace the washer and/or the seat .
If a faucet leaks from the handle, replace O-ring(s), replace the packing washer, tighten the packing nut, or replace worn packing, depending on the valve type .
If a ball or cartridge faucet leaks from the collar, replace worn O-rings .
If a disk faucet leaks around the base or has reduced flow, replace cracked or pitted disk assembly or worn inlet seals .
If there is water under the sink, tighten the faucet-set locknuts under the sink. You also can replace putty or a gasket, replace a worn faucet, or replace leaky supply tubes
If the aerator leaks around the edge, replace the washer in the aerator
If the spray hose leaks or has reduced flow, replace the O-ring on the diverter valve, replace a worn washer at the base of the spray head, or clean the diverter valve and spray head

Nov 26, 2013 | Home

Tip

How to repair a washer-type faucet


REPAIRING A LEAKY WASHER-TYPE FAUCET

  • Washer-type faucets work with a rubber or composition washer that closes onto a metal washer seat (Fig. 1). The washer can become hardened, worn or the seat wears, causing the faucet to leak. You can close the faucet tighter to stop the leaking temporarily, but this increases the internal damage to the faucet.

  • To repair the leak, first turn off the water. If there's a shutoff valve beneath the fixture, turn off the water at that point. Otherwise, turn it off at the main house shutoff valve in the basement, utility room, or crawlspace. Turn off the hot water supply at the water heater.

  • Take the faucet apart by removing the handle (this may not be necessary on some older faucets). Loosen the Phillips-head screw, which usually is beneath a decorative cap in the center of the handle. The cap either unscrews or snaps off when you pry it with a knife blade. If you must use pliers on decorative faucet parts, pad them with electrical tape or cloth to protect the finish. And take special care with the plastic parts found on many modern faucets. Next, lift or pry the handle off its broached stem. Unscrew the packing nut beneath the handle, exposing the rest of the stem. Remove the stem by rotating it in the "on" direction. It will thread out. Reinstall the handle if you have difficulty turning it (Fig. 1). Clean chips from the faucet cavity, but do not use harsh abrasives or a file.

  • Examine the stem. If the threads are badly corroded or worn, take it to your retailer and get a new stem to match. Clean the stem if it's dirty.

  • Now look at the washer, which is located on the lower end of the stem and held in place by a brass screw. If the washer is squeezed flat or has a groove worn in it, replace it–this should stop any dripping. Take the washer with you to your dealer to ensure an exact match in size and style. If the brass screw is damaged, too, replace it with a new brass screw.

  • The washer seat is located inside the faucet body. You probably can't determine if the washer seat is causing the leak just by looking at it. Any faucet that needs frequent washer replacement obviously has a damaged seat. The seat should either be refaced with a seat-dressing tool. A seat-dressing tool is not costly. Every home with washer-type faucets needs one. Use the tool according to the manufacturer's directions, placing it in the faucet along with the packing nut. Then rotate (Fig. 2) until the seat is smooth, and blow out the chips.

  • Some washer seats can be unthreaded and replaced. Check the faucet body with a flashlight to see if it has a square or hexagonal hole through its center or is slotted for a screwdriver; if so, it is replaceable. However, if the seat simply has a round hole through its center and no slots, it is not replaceable. In this case, dress it with a seat-dressing tool. To replace it, you'll need a faucet seat wrench, which comes with a combination of square and hex heads to fit most faucet seats. Turn the washer seat counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten (Fig. 3). Add a little silicone rubber sealant (RTV) or pipe joint compound around the threads of the seat before you install it to make it easier to remove during future repairs.

  • It's important to install the correct type of faucet washer (Fig. 1, bottom). A swiveling washer (C) is preferable to either (A) or (B). To install washer style (C), file the shoulder off the end of the stem, drill out the threads of the screw hole. Instead of rubbing against the seat as it closes, a swiveling washer closes with a straight-down, frictionless action – this allows it to outlast fixed washers.

  • Following this seat and washer service, your faucet should be like new. Put the parts back together in the reverse order of taking them apart. Spread a bit of petroleum jelly or silicone grease on the threads of the stem to lubricate the faucet's action.

  • If the faucet leaks around the stem rather than from the spigot, install new packing. You may want to install one of the newer nylon-covered or graphite-impregnated packings–their lubrication allows the faucet handle to turn more freely. Wrap one turn of this packing around the stem just beneath the packing nut (Fig. 1). Use three complete wraps if you're applying string-type packing. Some stems use O-rings, rather than packing. For these stems, replace the O-ring with a matching one to stop a leak. Hand tighten the packing nut, then tighten it another half-turn.

on Jan 16, 2010 | Plumbing

1 Answer

Jameco single handle kitchen faucet with spray hard to turn


make this steps and fix it. God bless you
f a faucet leaks, replace seals and gaskets . If a shower head leaks, create a better seal or replace seals .
If a sillcock wears out, replace the washers .
If a compression faucet drips from the spout, replace the washer and/or the seat .
If a faucet leaks from the handle, replace O-ring(s), replace the packing washer, tighten the packing nut, or replace worn packing, depending on the valve type.
If a ball or cartridge faucet leaks from the collar, replace worn O-rings .
If a disk faucet leaks around the base or has reduced flow, replace cracked or pitted disk assembly or worn inlet seals
If there is water under the sink, tighten the faucet-set locknuts under the sink. You also can replace putty or a gasket, replace a worn faucet, or replace leaky supply tubes .
If the aerator leaks around the edge, replace the washer in the aerator
If the spray hose leaks or has reduced flow, replace the O-ring on the diverter valve, replace a worn washer at the base of the spray head, or clean the diverter valve and spray head

Nov 25, 2013 | RTO Jameco #K-1320B Bone Drop In Lav Sink

1 Answer

Jameco single handle kitchen faucet with spray is hard to turn


make this steps and fix it. God bless you
f a faucet leaks, replace seals and gaskets . If a shower head leaks, create a better seal or replace seals
If a sillcock wears out, replace the washers
If a compression faucet drips from the spout, replace the washer and/or the seat
If a faucet leaks from the handle, replace O-ring(s), replace the packing washer, tighten the packing nut, or replace worn packing, depending on the valve type
If a ball or cartridge faucet leaks from the collar, replace worn O-rings
If a disk faucet leaks around the base or has reduced flow, replace cracked or pitted disk assembly or worn inlet seals
If there is water under the sink, tighten the faucet-set locknuts under the sink. You also can replace putty or a gasket, replace a worn faucet, or replace leaky supply tubes
If the aerator leaks around the edge, replace the washer in the aerator
If the spray hose leaks or has reduced flow, replace the O-ring on the diverter valve, replace a worn washer at the base of the spray head, or clean the diverter valve and spray head

Nov 25, 2013 | RTO Jameco #K-1320B Bone Drop In Lav Sink

1 Answer

How to fix a leaky Moen faucet that leaks at the spout ,which is separate from the handle?


These faucets can leak in three different places:

  1. Internally at the valve seat
    You'll see water dripping from the spout. This means the rubber washer is worn or damaged. To replace the washer, remove the decorative cap from the handle. Remove the retaining screw and pull off the handle. Remove the decorative cover, called an escutcheon, if there is one. Unscrew the packing nut counterclockwise. Unscrew the valve stem and remove it. Remove the screw that holds the rubber washer in place. Because these washers come in many shapes and sizes, you'll want to take the old one to the hardware store and buy an exact replacement. Be sure to buy two washers so you'll have one for the other valve. Replace the washer and reassemble the faucet.
  2. Around the handle
    If you see water coming from below the handle, the packing nut is leaking. Older faucets have a string-like graphite packing material wrapped around the stem. Newer faucets use an O-ring. First try tightening the packing nut clockwise... about one-half turn. If this doesn't stop the leak, remove the packing nut and replace the packing or O-ring; then reassemble the faucet. If the valve is using the graphite packing material, it might be a clue that you should shop for a new faucet.

  3. Between a pivoting spout and the body
    The spout might be held in place with a packing nut, similar to the faucet stem, or it might have a nut at the top of the spout. In either case, remove the spout and replace the packing material or the O-ring seal. Then reassemble the faucet.
Single lever faucets also are known as "washerless" faucets. They are easier to repair than compression faucets after you determine what type of faucet you have. There are three types of washerless faucets: ball, ceramic disk and cartridge.
Leaks are evident in two places... dripping from the spout and seeping from around the spout where it joins the body of the faucet.
Leaks from the spout indicate that the ball, disk or cartridge is leaking. To repair, turn off the water to the faucet, then remove the handle. The handles on ball-type faucets are held in place with a setscrew that requires an Allen wrench to loosen. Ceramic disk and cartridge-type handles usually are held in place by a screw hidden beneath a cap.
On ball and ceramic disk-type faucets, remove the ball or disk and replace the seals. You can buy replacement kits for these faucets at the hardware store or home center.
On cartridge-type faucets, remove the spout and pull out the retainer clip that holds the cartridge in place. To remove the cartridge, pull on the cartridge stem with a twisting motion. If it resists, install the handle so you can a better grip on the cartridge to pull it out. Take the cartridge to the hardware store or home center and purchase an exact replacement kit.
Reassemble the faucet according to directions.
Leaks at the spout-to-body joint indicate an O-ring failure. Disassemble the faucet as described above. Remove the spout sleeve and replace the O-rings. It's a good idea to replace these seals if you have the faucet disassembled for repair of the ball, disk or cartridge.

Sep 10, 2011 | Moen Plumbing

1 Answer

Cold water faucet drip. Took apart fausect, no visible sign of wear. Faucet is only seven years old. Does faucet have a basin washer that may be worn ?


Hi bobwiz...

Your faucet may be leaking because of a bad seat that the rubber/plastic washer seals on...
Check the seat condition for wear, especially a "line cut" in the brass seat from where the water has eroaded the seat, this could cause your leak.
If the seat has a "line" cut in it, then you will need to purchase a seat repair tool from your local hardware store and refinish the seat.
Check and replace your plastic/rubber washer, it is 7 yrs old and maybe hard and not seating properly.
Please take time to rate me

Aug 17, 2011 | Delta Home

1 Answer

Single handle shower/bath faucet is dripping. Want


I can fix this.
What is the last thing you did before this problem started?

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I have an American Standard Colony? bathtub faucet set that has been leaking at the spout. I thought the reason for the leak was the seats and rubber washers needed to be replaced. After doing so I still...


Check these items:

1. If you installed new faucet seats, did you add a little pipe joint compound to the threads before installing them?

2. Make sure the shower diverter is in the off position and you're not seeing water leaking from the spout that could be coming from the shower pipe or residual water from the shower head.

3. Make sure you have the correct faucet washers - some or tapered and some are flat and must fit the stem counter bore correctly and that the counter bore isn't damaged or the stem shaft isn't bent. Make sure the waskers are the correct hardness.

4. Make sure the screws that secure the faucet washers are tight, but not too tight. It doesn't hurt to add a little pipe joint compound to the screws.

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T&S is popular brand. Do you have a piece of old washer stuck inside valve. Flush it out.

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New faucets are easily had from many places like beveragefactory.com, northerbrewer.com, austinhomebrew.com, micromatic.com, etc. You should also be able to find replacement washers/o-rings for your current faucet, but it may require an email or phone call to one of the sales reps to locate one. If you decide on a new faucet consider a Ventmatic (Shirron) forward sealing faucet. Much better design that drips less and doesn't stick after sitting a few days. The only issue I've seen is that the machined grooves in back of the faucet may not mate up with your current shank requiring a machined (as opposed to cast) shank to match.

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