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Electric supply plug burnt out

The negative terminal of the power supply cord has burnt out two receptacles. Have you seen this problem before?

Model Roper RTW4100 top load

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Prob is caused by bad or loose connection in plug top or socket the m/c plugs into.
Replace plug and if there are scorch marks or discolouring of the socket, then replace socket.
Plz rate my solution
Thanks.

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

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2 Answers

The cord at the plug in is burnt but didn't trip the braker and the dryer is not working


Sounds like a loose connection in the plug causing arcing (sparking) cut back the lead and re connect to plug, if not confident ask someone preferably someone electrically minded. Good luck.

Mar 13, 2015 | LG Tromm Electric Dryer

Tip

Electric Dryer power connections



The supply cord on an electric dryer can be 3 wire or 4 wire,
depending on the existing receptacle. All new construction
must have 4 wire receptacles for dryer hook ups.
At the back of the dryer you will see a set of three
terminals. The outside terminals are for connecting the
outside wires of the cord. In a 4wire hook up, the center
terminal is for the center, insulated, white wire, the
neutral. The bare copper or green wire of the 4wire cord
gets connected above these terminals to a lug or stud on
the body of the dryer. There may be a strap there. For a
4wire cord connection this strap is connected to the stud
only.
The change for a 3wire connection is that the center green
wire of the 3wire cord connects to the center of the three
power terminals along with the grounding strap from the
dryer body above.


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on May 05, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

My washer wont start


Hi Kimberly:
That's not much info to go on so I'll try some basic starting points.
- Is it plugged in?
- Is there power in that receptacle? Check by seeing if a hair dryer or other appliance will run when plugged in there.
- Is the circuit breaker tripped?
- Did it work before, and what happened when it decided to not work?
- Could the supply cord be broken? This can happen on older machines and usually occurs from where the cord goes into the machine to where it is connected to the machines internal electrical system.
Hope this helps you to isolate the problem.
SAFETY TIP - Do not start checking for a broken supply cord unless the machine is unplugged.

Mar 11, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Whirlpool AW041608 Washer not functioning. Power supply is good, but no lights on


Power supply???
Are you referring to receptacle it's cord is plugged into?
Or did you open it and check for power where the washers power cord terminates inside the washer?

Nov 12, 2014 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Hoover 0910dryer not heating. element replaced not long ago


Hi, the possible causes are: Possible Causes: The wall receptacle, power cord (plug) and electrical supply must be in good condition and wired correctly for the dryer to heat.
  • Supply Issue - Loose or missing connection on supply wire from circuit breaker.
  • Plug Issue - Loose or missing connection in the wall. Defective, worn or damaged wall plug.
  • Cord Issue - Loose, missing or incorrect connection of the power cord to the dryer terminals.
If gas dryer and does not heat, Gas Dryer heats with a gas burner, make sure the gas supply line valve is open.
Also, for electric dryer,
Electric dryers require two 30 amp breakers or fuses in the house electrical box to run and heat. If one breaker is tripped or one fuse is blown, the motor, the timer and lights can work but the dryer will not heat.

May 01, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Hi, I live in Argentina and I have a kenmore 96093800 Dryer. This Machine has 120/240v and his plug has 4 pins. Two pins are flat, one pin is cilindric, and the fourth pin is en angule. How can I connect...


Are you connecting this Dryer cord to the Dryer or are you looking for a wall plug with this same configuration to plug into. This is a standard double ground configuration and you can buy the wall receptacle at a hardware store. Your house should have 4 wires to this, 2 lines, a neutral, and a ground. As always the recommendation is that you have an electrician install your house receptacle. Your Dryer power cord is something you can install however. The two outside terminals on your dryer 240 volt wiring block are connected to the two outside wires on your power cord. It does not matter which wire goes to which side. Your two inside wires on the power cord are connected like this. One to the middle terminal on your 240 volt dryer terminal block and one is connected to the dryer case itself. Again it does not matter which wire goes to which ground. Make sure all of your connections are tight, as loose terminals eventually burn up. Do Not plug in your dryer power cord until everything is hooked up tight. I actually had a customer plug in his cord and then try to connect the wires to the dryer. The wires arced together and blew the terminals into molten metal which burned this customers hands and face. Do not do and electical repair unless you know what you are doing. On your cord the two straight terminals are line terminals, the round and L shaped terminals are grounds or neutrals. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists

Dec 15, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Duet 4.4 Washer (not steam) power cord too short


Hi, you might be able to find an 8 foot dryer power cord at your local building supply or hardware, or electrical supply store. It will be labelled for a dryer. First look at the dryer receptacle. The cords come in two types, 3 or 4 wire, so get the one that will match youyt receptacle. The wirte should be # 10 minimum.

Jun 09, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

How do I change from a 4 prong wire to a 3 prong wire on a kenmore h34t washer


3-Prong or 4-Prong – The Difference:

3-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1
RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2
WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – Usually grounded to the equipment frame via a jumper wire or metal strap.

4-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1
RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2
WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – DO NOT ground to equipment frame.
GREEN (GROUND) – Attach to equipment frame.

Which One to Use: According to the National Electrical Code (NEC), Article 250, installations after the year 2000, require the use of a 4-prong plug which incorporates a separate ground and neutral wire. If you currently have a home that uses the 3-prong receptacle and cord, you can continue to use it. You will have to upgrade to a 4-prong configuration, however, if you plan on relocating your current receptacle, or if the internal wires of the receptacle become damaged in any way and require repair.

Converting from 3-prong to 4-prong: Make sure you UNPLUG the appliance prior to any repairs. CAUTION: Voltages dangerous to life are still present even with the appliance turned off and still plugged in. Notably in the area of the terminal block where the power cords are installed. You will need to remove the old cord by following these steps:

1. With the appliance UNPLUGGED, remove the access panel on the back of the unit where the power cord enters.
2. With the cover removed, you will see a terminal block where the power cord is attached. The terminal wires will be colored with the WHITE wire in the middle, and the BLACK and RED wires on either end. NOTE: There should be a green jumper wire or metal bonding strap attached to the NEUTRAL (white) terminal wire.
3. Remove the terminal lugs holding the old power cord wires in place. CAUTION: Use care not to drop any nuts or screws inside the appliance.
4. Remove the bonding strap or ground wire from the Neutral terminal lug. NOTE: If disconnecting a ground wire, make sure you re-attach it to the appliance frame.
5. Loosen the screws on the strain relief connector that holds the power cord in place and remove old power cord. NOTE: If your appliance does not have a strain relief that clamps down and hold the power cord in place, it is highly recommended that you install one. This prevents chaffing of the power cord against the appliance casing, and prevents the terminal wires from being pulled and broken loose. This could pose a potential shock hazard or cause damage to the appliance.
6. Install new power cord by threading it through the strain relief connector and tighten down the screws.
7. Connect the new power cord to the corresponding colors at the terminal block (Black goes to Black, Red goes to Red, White goes to White). The difference is going to be a Green (ground) wire that will connect to the appliance frame. There’s usually a green grounding screw for this. NOTE: If you disconnected a green grounding strap in Step 4., you can connect these two wires at the same point.
8. Re-install access cover. Turn off the service breaker to the appliance PRIOR to plugging it back in. With the breaker in the off position, plug the appliance in, and THEN turn the breaker on. In the event, something was wired incorrectly, it is far better to have your hands away from the receptacle and controlled from a distance. Safety first.

These steps will work for nearly all appliances that require a 220-240VAC power cord conversion. The power cords are usually rated at 250VAC, 30 amps, and are carried by any hardware store or appliance parts retailer.

ADDITIONAL NOTES:

1. If you desire to convert an appliance from a 4-prong to a 3-prong, make sure you reconnect the bonding strap and/or ground wire to the Neutral (white) wire at the terminal block.
2. On some newer appliances, it is REQUIRED that you use a 4-prong plug in order for the timer or clock circuits to function properly due to the way they are configured. Refer to your owner’s manual for the correct recommendation. Even if you currently have a 3-prong receptacle, you still may be required to upgrade to a 4-prong if you encounter this situation.
3. In many circumstances, new appliances are NOT sold with the power cord due to the various power configurations in homes. Always refer to the contents description on the shipping container the appliance comes with to see what additional items or tools may be required for installation.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Mar 31, 2009 | Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE4t Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Neither my washer or dryer has any power on our electric stackabl


IT IS GOOD THAT YOU STARTED WITH THE HOUSE ELECTRICAL. I WOULD NOW CHECK THE POWER AT THE RECEPTACLE AND THEN TAKE THE COVER OFF THE BACK OF THE MACHINE WHERE THE CORD CONNECTS TO SEE IF MAYBE A WIRE IS BURNT OFF. I HAVE SEEN THIS TOO MANY TIMES TO PASS CHECKING THIS.

Jan 26, 2009 | GE WSM2700W Unitized Spacemaker Washer and...

1 Answer

I have a whirlpool thin twin waher/dryer and it will nt spin or agitate on any cycle


1) Be sure your clothes dryer is plugged in and turned on. If necessary, check the receptacle it's plugged into for power, using a working lamp, appliance, or voltage tester. Be aware that most electric dryers don't plug into standard 120-





volt receptacles; they operate on 240 volts. 







Make sure the door is closed completely, the timer is advanced to the proper position, and the correct cycle is selected.

2) If the receptacle is dead, check the circuit breaker or fuse that serves that circuit.

3) Unplug the dryer and check the power cord and the terminal block. If necessary, replace the cord.

4) Open the door, and check the door switch. Press and release it; it should click each time. If it doesn't, it's probably broken.

If you're experienced at home repair, you can remove the switch, test it, and replace it if needed; otherwise, call an appliance repair service.

5) If the dryer still doesn't work, a thermal fuse or other electrical or electronic part may be faulty. The thermal fuse, found in the back cover panel, can stop working if the dryer overheats. Call an appliance service person if you suspect an electrical part may be malfunctioning.

Jan 03, 2009 | Whirlpool LTE6234D Top Load Stacked...

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