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Re: plastic nipple is stripped and need to know if it can...
The plastic nipple is part of the washer's fill valve. The whole valve needs to be replaced (but it's not a very expensive part). You don't remove the back of the machine to get at it. The whole procedure is shown in good detail here:
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Used to be that you could buy the ratcheting coupler piece for 5 or 10 bucks for the old GE machines. Alas, no more. The newer GE timer must be replaced if the teeth are stripped.
Be careful not to damage the indicator dial when doing this repair as it is about $20 for a round piece of plastic and a tiny steel clip. Pry this off using opposite points of the dial (grab it at the 9 o'clock and the three o'clock positions with as many fingers as possible) and pull gently so as not to set up any fractures in the dial's hub.
If your inlet valve itself is stripped then you have to replace the valve. The plastic thread is part of the inlet valve. If its only the screen in your inlet valve you can remove the screen and replace it. However if you crossthread anything plastic it HAS to be replaced.
If you give me your model number of the washer usually the wpl 4318046 can be used as an inlet valve which is a cheaper alternative than your local parts distributor would tell you. GE parts on avg are 30% more expensive than anything else. On ANY ge appliance there is usually a way around there replacements with some minor altercations. I wish this site had a way you could contact me directly. I just joined so am not an expert yet but ive done my time in the field. If i could give you any expert advise its DONT BUY GE, OR LG.
Te newest ones are the easiest, a square hole can be unscrewed after removing the splash guard and belch dispenser.top Older models have a nut to remove. You must use an extension and socket for that. I have a nice video i found online: HERE After I get the agitator out I set it on the floor and hold it down with my feet, I grab the top and yank it apart. I remove the old worn out agitation dogs and replace them with part number 80040 around $5 here. Line it all up and snap it back together without breaking the plastic locking tabs on the base of the agitator. While putting back the agitator take care not to make it come apart. This sounds hard but it is not. Anyone can do it.
The rear bearing and probably the front slides that the drum rolls on are worn out.
The kit to replace the rear bearing is (or was) about thirty dollars.
the upper and lower plastic strips that mount in the front of the drum are purchased seperatly. the pads that they run on that mount in the front panel around the door cost a little more. I was extremely displeased at the price of the cheesy plastic slides but once you replace them they seem to last a while.
The cost of the parts isn't the real problem here, this machine is a little more difficult to work on than most so unless your really savvy I would either hire the job done or replace it if its very old.
If you decide to go in and repair it I will try to aid you with any information you might need.
Check the two lengths of 1/4" plastic tubing, the long one that runs from the filler at the botton left side of the tub, and the short one that runs from the load switch (water level switch) to the shield assembly (formed plastic cover for the controls). When under pressure, the tubing can come loose from the plastic nipple on either side of the shield, leaking water while the tub is filling. If either length of tubing is detached from the nipple, reattach the tubing and use a 1/4" hose clamp to prevent it from detaching again.
If the wash tub overfills without stopping unless the washer is stopped, this is usually caused by a defective pressure switch or loose air hose going to the pressure switch. The pressure switch is located behind the water level knob inside the console. It is common for the rubber air dome hose to come off and cause a washer to overfill. The console can be accessed the following ways:
If you have removable end caps, the will lift of by prying up from the ear of the console and pulling from the front. Sometimes inserting a screwdriver in the slot in the top of the end cap on the back of the washer and giving the screwdriver a slight twist can help to pop the end cap loose. There will be a philips screw under each end cap that will need to be loosened.
If the end caps are not removable, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of the console where it meets the top of washer on each side and push in to release the retaining clip that holds it in place.
Once you have the console loose, you can flip it up over the back panel to its resting position. Use care not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold the console to the washer.
With the console in its resting position, examine the pressure switch. It will be a round plastic switch located on the left hand side (sometimes located in the center) of the console. There will be an electrical connection and a rubber hose attached to it. More common than not, the rubber hose comes off. If this is the case, reattach the hose to the small nipple on the switch. Use care not to break the nipple. You can take a small zip tie and place it over the hose where it is attached to the nipple and secure it snugly to help keep the hose in place. Do NOT over tighten as you can damage the nipple. The zip tie creates enough resistance the keep the hose from sliding off from vibration over time.
If the pressure switch hose is still attached, double check your electrical connection. If the connector is intact, replace the switch as a last resort. If you can provide me with your model number (located under the lid along the wash tub rim) I can get a part number for you and let you know how much the switch would cost. I hope this helps you.