Question about Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

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ONE OFTHE CONTACTS KEEPS BURNING AT ELEMENT

ON ONE THE CONTACT FROM THE ELEMENT THE LEAD COMING
FROM MOTOR TO THE ELEMENT KEEPS BURNING THE WIRE
RIGHT AT THAT CONTACT I KEEP TRIMING THE WIRE AND
RE CONNECTING IT TO THE ELEMENT CONTACT.

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You will have to replace the heat element, because the male terminal is burnt, which causes too much heat at the connection, and causes the wire to burn. If you can clean the terminal to where its shiny it may work otherwise replace the element

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

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I have an Amana dryer model number ned7200tw and a wire keeps burning out but what is causing that to happen


wires that burn out are caused by bad connections at one end or the other. The resistance becomes too great at the connection and the wire becomes an element.

Make sure the wire is clean and shiny and that the connector makes good contact with the wire, and the connector itself makes good contact with it other contact.

You could also replace the wire with a slightly heavier gauge

Jan 26, 2016 | Amana Dryers

2 Answers

The dryer comes on but does not turn or heat, Why ? The dryer terminals have the proper voltage.120/240


You have voltage to the dryer's element, but do you have it coming out? As far as the drum turning goes, you need to check the belt. Make and Model would help too.

Nov 28, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

The dryer wont get hot.


Hi,


Thank you for contacting Fixya.com.


These are the common causes for a dryer not to heat up:-


1) A burned out heating element. Remove tall box on right, element slides out from the bottom together with the "carrier". Look for broken coil, or check 2 terminals at bottom with ohm meter.

2) Burned wires at connectors. Check for obviously overheated wire terminals at all sensors (thermostats and thermal fuses in back), heater box, main terminals where power cord hooks up, etc.

3) An open thermal fuse. This is a small "thermostat" with 2 wires at the middle/top of the heater "box" (a tall narrow box on right in the back of the machine), or a plastic type on the duct close to the blower, depending on the model. You will need to remove the back cover of the machine to see these. Check with an ohm meter after disconnecting one of the leads, or jumper the 2 wires together to see if heater works (don't use this way though, fire hazard... replace the device) If this proves to be the cause of the problem, it would be wise to check all ducts and blower for excessive lint build-up. This will reduce air flow, causing overheating and blown thermal fuses.

4) Only getting 110 volts: This is often overlooked, but if for some reason one of the poles feeding the 220 power from the house wiring is open but the other is OK (for example, houses with fuses where only one fuse is blown, or a bad circuit breaker with one pole open). The motor and timer run on 110. If the side of the 220 line that feeds the motor is OK but the other one is open the motor will run but the heater, which 220 needs will not heat. Check for 220 volts between the 2 outer terminals where power cord connects or between the 2 "hot" terminals of the 220 outlet the dryer is plugged into.

5) Bad thermostats. There are usually 2 or more. A high limit on heater box, just above terminals on the bottom. 1 or 2 will be on the duct next to the blower. Check these with an ohm meter (or continuity checker). Some have 4 terminals; the extra 2 small terminals are small heaters inside the thermostats which alter its temperature characteristics. These will usually read around 4000 ohms or so. Check the 2 main largest terminals for continuity.

6) Bad centrifugal switch in motor. This is what actually turns the heater on, for safety reasons, so the heater cannot come on unless the fan is spinning. Otherwise without air flow past it, the heater would burn out.
There are 2 large gauge (usually red or yellow) wires going to the connector on the motor, these go to the contacts inside the motor that turn the heater on.


Also check the bellow link related to your issue:-


http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm


Please get back to us if you have any further query.

Dec 02, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet 7.0 Cu. Ft. Capacity Plus...

1 Answer

No heat electric amana dryer


Hi,


Thank you for contacting Fixya.com.


These are the common causes for the dryer not to heat up:-


1) A burned out heating element. Remove tall box on right, element slides out from the bottom together with the "carrier". Look for broken coil, or check 2 terminals at bottom with ohm meter.

2) Burned wires at connectors. Check for obviously overheated wire terminals at all sensors (thermostats and thermal fuses in back), heater box, main terminals where power cord hooks up, etc.

3) An open thermal fuse. This is a small "thermostat" with 2 wires at the middle/top of the heater "box" (a tall narrow box on right in the back of the machine), or a plastic type on the duct close to the blower, depending on the model. You will need to remove the back cover of the machine to see these. Check with an ohm meter after disconnecting one of the leads, or jumper the 2 wires together to see if heater works (don't use this way though, fire hazard... replace the device) If this proves to be the cause of the problem, it would be wise to check all ducts and blower for excessive lint build-up. This will reduce air flow, causing overheating and blown thermal fuses.

4) Only getting 110 volts: This is often overlooked, but if for some reason one of the poles feeding the 220 power from the house wiring is open but the other is OK (for example, houses with fuses where only one fuse is blown, or a bad circuit breaker with one pole open). The motor and timer run on 110. If the side of the 220 line that feeds the motor is OK but the other one is open the motor will run but the heater, which 220 needs will not heat. Check for 220 volts between the 2 outer terminals where power cord connects or between the 2 "hot" terminals of the 220 outlet the dryer is plugged into.

5) Bad thermostats. There are usually 2 or more. A high limit on heater box, just above terminals on the bottom. 1 or 2 will be on the duct next to the blower. Check these with an ohm meter (or continuity checker). Some have 4 terminals; the extra 2 small terminals are small heaters inside the thermostats which alter its temperature characteristics. These will usually read around 4000 ohms or so. Check the 2 main largest terminals for continuity.

6) Bad centrifugal switch in motor. This is what actually turns the heater on, for safety reasons, so the heater cannot come on unless the fan is spinning. Otherwise without air flow past it, the heater would burn out.
There are 2 large gauge (usually red or yellow) wires going to the connector on the motor, these go to the contacts inside the motor that turn the heater on.


Also check the bellow link related to your issue:-


http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm


Please get back to us if you have any further query.


Have a nice day.

Dec 02, 2010 | Amana DLE330RAW Electric Dryer

1 Answer

WIRLPOOL DRYER ONLY BLOWS COLD


Hi,


Thank you for contacting Fixya.com.


Please check the following causes for your problem:-


1) A burned out heating element. Remove tall box on right, element slides out from the bottom together with the "carrier". Look for broken coil, or check 2 terminals at bottom with ohm meter.

2) Burned wires at connectors. Check for obviously overheated wire terminals at all sensors (thermostats and thermal fuses in back), heater box, main terminals where power cord hooks up, etc.

3) An open thermal fuse. This is a small "thermostat" with 2 wires at the middle/top of the heater "box" (a tall narrow box on right in the back of the machine), or a plastic type on the duct close to the blower, depending on the model. You will need to remove the back cover of the machine to see these. Check with an ohm meter after disconnecting one of the leads, or jumper the 2 wires together to see if heater works (don't use this way though, fire hazard... replace the device) If this proves to be the cause of the problem, it would be wise to check all ducts and blower for excessive lint build-up. This will reduce air flow, causing overheating and blown thermal fuses.

4) Only getting 110 volts: This is often overlooked, but if for some reason one of the poles feeding the 220 power from the house wiring is open but the other is OK (for example, houses with fuses where only one fuse is blown, or a bad circuit breaker with one pole open). The motor and timer run on 110. If the side of the 220 line that feeds the motor is OK but the other one is open the motor will run but the heater, which 220 needs will not heat. Check for 220 volts between the 2 outer terminals where power cord connects or between the 2 "hot" terminals of the 220 outlet the dryer is plugged into.

5) Bad thermostats. There are usually 2 or more. A high limit on heater box, just above terminals on the bottom. 1 or 2 will be on the duct next to the blower. Check these with an ohm meter (or continuity checker). Some have 4 terminals; the extra 2 small terminals are small heaters inside the thermostats which alter its temperature characteristics. These will usually read around 4000 ohms or so. Check the 2 main largest terminals for continuity.

6) Bad centrifugal switch in motor. This is what actually turns the heater on, for safety reasons, so the heater cannot come on unless the fan is spinning. Otherwise without air flow past it, the heater would burn out.
There are 2 large gauge (usually red or yellow) wires going to the connector on the motor, these go to the contacts inside the motor that turn the heater on.


Also check the bellow link related to your issue:-


http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm


Please get back to us if you have any further query.


Have a nice day.


Dec 01, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer is running fine but no heat at all


Hi,


Thank you for contacting Fixya.com.


1) A burned out heating element. Remove tall box on right, element slides out from the bottom together with the "carrier". Look for broken coil, or check 2 terminals at bottom with ohm meter.

2) Burned wires at connectors. Check for obviously overheated wire terminals at all sensors (thermostats and thermal fuses in back), heater box, main terminals where power cord hooks up, etc.

3) An open thermal fuse. This is a small "thermostat" with 2 wires at the middle/top of the heater "box" (a tall narrow box on right in the back of the machine), or a plastic type on the duct close to the blower, depending on the model. You will need to remove the back cover of the machine to see these. Check with an ohm meter after disconnecting one of the leads, or jumper the 2 wires together to see if heater works (don't use this way though, fire hazard... replace the device) If this proves to be the cause of the problem, it would be wise to check all ducts and blower for excessive lint build-up. This will reduce air flow, causing overheating and blown thermal fuses.

4) Only getting 110 volts: This is often overlooked, but if for some reason one of the poles feeding the 220 power from the house wiring is open but the other is OK (for example, houses with fuses where only one fuse is blown, or a bad circuit breaker with one pole open). The motor and timer run on 110. If the side of the 220 line that feeds the motor is OK but the other one is open the motor will run but the heater, which 220 needs will not heat. Check for 220 volts between the 2 outer terminals where power cord connects or between the 2 "hot" terminals of the 220 outlet the dryer is plugged into.

5) Bad thermostats. There are usually 2 or more. A high limit on heater box, just above terminals on the bottom. 1 or 2 will be on the duct next to the blower. Check these with an ohm meter (or continuity checker). Some have 4 terminals; the extra 2 small terminals are small heaters inside the thermostats which alter its temperature characteristics. These will usually read around 4000 ohms or so. Check the 2 main largest terminals for continuity.

6) Bad centrifugal switch in motor. This is what actually turns the heater on, for safety reasons, so the heater cannot come on unless the fan is spinning. Otherwise without air flow past it, the heater would burn out.
There are 2 large gauge (usually red or yellow) wires going to the connector on the motor, these go to the contacts inside the motor that turn the heater on.


Also check the bellow link related to your issue:-

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm


Please get back to us if you have any further query.


Dec 01, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

My whirlpool duet dryer will not put out heat. The tub turns. The lint is cleaned out after each use.


Hi,


Thank you for contacting Fixya.com.



1) A burned out heating element. Remove tall box on right, element slides out from the bottom together with the "carrier". Look for broken coil, or check 2 terminals at bottom with ohm meter.


2) Burned wires at connectors. Check for obviously overheated wire terminals at all sensors (thermostats and thermal fuses in back), heater box, main terminals where power cord hooks up, etc.

3) An open thermal fuse. This is a small "thermostat" with 2 wires at the middle/top of the heater "box" (a tall narrow box on right in the back of the machine), or a plastic type on the duct close to the blower, depending on the model. You will need to remove the back cover of the machine to see these. Check with an ohm meter after disconnecting one of the leads, or jumper the 2 wires together to see if heater works (don't use this way though, fire hazard... replace the device) If this proves to be the cause of the problem, it would be wise to check all ducts and blower for excessive lint build-up. This will reduce air flow, causing overheating and blown thermal fuses.


4) Only getting 110 volts: This is often overlooked, but if for some reason one of the poles feeding the 220 power from the house wiring is open but the other is OK (for example, houses with fuses where only one fuse is blown, or a bad circuit breaker with one pole open). The motor and timer run on 110. If the side of the 220 line that feeds the motor is OK but the other one is open the motor will run but the heater, which 220 needs will not heat. Check for 220 volts between the 2 outer terminals where power cord connects or between the 2 "hot" terminals of the 220 outlet the dryer is plugged into.


5) Bad thermostats. There are usually 2 or more. A high limit on heater box, just above terminals on the bottom. 1 or 2 will be on the duct next to the blower. Check these with an ohm meter (or continuity checker). Some have 4 terminals; the extra 2 small terminals are small heaters inside the thermostats which alter its temperature characteristics. These will usually read around 4000 ohms or so. Check the 2 main largest terminals for continuity.

6) Bad centrifugal switch in motor. This is what actually turns the heater on, for safety reasons, so the heater cannot come on unless the fan is spinning. Otherwise without air flow past it, the heater would burn out.

There are 2 large gauge (usually red or yellow) wires going to the connector on the motor, these go to the contacts inside the motor that turn the heater on.



Also check the bellow link related to your issue:-

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm


Please get back to us if you have any further query.


Nov 30, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

2 Answers

Dryer turns on but no heat, I don't have the manual so not sure about how it works, there is a swicth that says "air fluff, heated dry & timed cycles" I have tried turning this but nothing happens.


try flipping you breaker off and on 2 or 3 times (hard and fast) if this don't work check element, timer , thermostats and safety switch on motor (check wiring diagram for pin numbers of safety switch)....if this switch goes bad the motor will still run but it wont let power go to element

Aug 07, 2009 | Bosch Axxis WTA 3500 Dryer

2 Answers

My dryer throws cold air not hot?


One of three things can stop a dryers element, from heating up. the big red wire going to the motors relay switch could be burned off,that is on the back of the motor itself. two, the element or the wirers conected to it have bad contacts. three the safety thermal cutout devices, have open circuts do to some sort of blockage in the vent pipe.

Jul 28, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Maytag electric dryer model DE410' Dryer motor runs normally and freely; N0 HEAT is produced by the dryer element. electric heat element presumably is not working. Cold air is emitted from the exhaust....


check all of those "relays", htey are thermostats, monitoring you temps, they should all have continuity through them if not its bad. (temp jump it out) just to see the element glow. TEMPORARIly.. you CANNOT leave any jumped out you will damaged something. HOUSE FIRE. just wanted to instill the importance of not leaving jumped out

Mar 23, 2008 | Dryers

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