What is the pipe from the radior hose to the block call that has the heater,radior, and return hose connected to it

the bottom hose is the one that comes from the engine block the top return hose is the that returns to the radiator.

you blanked of the heater off and now want to reconnect the system

depends on which motor is fitted ..get back to this question with the engine fitted in your 92

will start with this engine .......1992 pickup with a 22re
The part labeled "3" is the heater valve - it links to the hot/cold lever inside the cab and controls how much hot water flows through the heater core. Therefore, this hose - "2" ( blue line) is the "heater core inlet hose". The hose numbered "1" (red line) is the outlet hose.

1 - Radiator
2 - Thermostat housing
3 - Radiator bottom hose
4 - Viscous fan
5 - Water pump
6 - Radiator top hose
7 - Heater return hose
8 - Coolant supply hose
9 - By-pass hose
10 - Radiator bleed (purge) hose
11 - Bleed (purge) hose, thermostat housing
12 - 'Y' piece ejector
13 - Expansion tank
14 - Heater rail
15 - Heater unit
16 - Heater feed hose
17 - Intercooler
18 - Air cleaner
19 - Air feed hose
20 - Turbocharger
21 - Charge air supply hose
22 - Cooled charge air supply hose
23 - Exhaust manifold
24 - Engine oil cooler
25 - Feed pipe, engine oil cooler
26 - Return pipe, engine oil cooler
27 - Oil filter

Check your heater core behind dash. You probably will see a leak int the floor board. You can bypass it under the hood for now by connecting the two radior hoses together that go into the passenger side firewall.

try the scrapyard and look at one in their ,or ask a local owner that is just parking up in a supermarket and look at theirs .lots of different ways to overcome this problem but if the pipe has beeen disconnected its because the heater matrix is no doubt leaking

You would have to either disconnect the two hoses that are on the firewall that enter the heate-core and return hose and some how attempt to connect the two, I do not believe there is a way to do this without complete replacement of the components.

Actually it does make sense. All you need to bypass the heater core is a section of pipe that can be used to connect the Heater core Supply and return lines together. All they actually do is make a loop using the heater core as the turnaround. This is normally 5/8 hose and any metal pipe section can be used as long as the hose fits on it and you can put a water clamp on it to hold it in place. In fact, if you have a control valve on your heater core line going into a piece of hose connected to the Firewall you can disconnect that and use it to connect the two lines together in a pinch. radiator flush kits come with a piece that attaches to these lines for flushing the system. Your supposed to cut the line and put this part in between the two pieces but you can just as easily disconnect the lines from the firewall and attach them with this piece. A Yard water hose slicing kit, metal, would work just as well as long as you have to correct size. Good Luck.

no the water should bypass thermostat, its is more likly that either your heater matrix has an air traped or is blocked from sediment, i would opt to first try the blocked test . undo both pipes that go to the matrix , using a hose pipe connect to bottom pipe on matrix and turn hose on to flush out matrix, continue running until water runs clear not rusty colored, then connect to top pipe and repeat, repeat several times until your happy it is clean, reattach bottom pipe and fill from expansion bottle until water flows from matrix then re attche the other hose, you can also try this on your main radiater . hand book states it should be flushed every 2 years .

Easiest way to bypass a heater core is to disconnect both inlet and outlet hoses at the engine firewall. Install a right angle hose coupling in each hose. Then install a straight piece of hose to connect the two hoses.

Modification done by inserting generic T fitting into 3 way junction (Heater Core, Water pump, Surge tank) and using heater hose instead of pipe. Bye the way; the return pipe from the surge tank was not leaking so I did not bother to replace that pipe. I am watching the hose to make sure that pressurization swelling does not cause chaffing of the hose. The original replacement pipe was $80 and this modification is a fraction of that cost. The labor savings is significantly more important & valuable since this pipe requires the engine to be dropped (cradle installation) in order to remove and reroute the pipes from the firewall side of the Northstar V-8. There are two hard to reach attachments on the block that make it a maintenance nightmare. The resultant elevation of the hose to the surge tank and back does not inhibit surge tank functioning, at least not at this writing. I am keeping a close eye on everything. Experimental, but very doable fix.