Can I fire an SB22s flashgun mounted on a standard remote hotshoe with optical (flash) sensor? The SB22s appears to be designed to work with Nikon cameras with TTL monitoring and I wondered if the manual setting might allow use as a slave.
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Take care. Nikon does warn every user of the modern DSLR's not to use old flash guns. Old camera's were fitted with mechanical switches. In those days nobody cared about 5, 12 or even 100 volt on a flash gun. Modern camera's use electronic switches (transistor) and they only can survive when hooked up to modern flash guns, because these guns block high (above 5 Volt) voltages.
Probable will not work on the Nikon's hot shoe because the contacts on the Sakar flash gun won't match the contacts on the Nikon's hot shoe. You can use the Sakar flash gun as a slave flash by connecting a optical flash trigger to the Sakar flash gun and use the Nikon's flash to trigger the Sakar slave flash.
Probably a loose hotshoe. This is a common problem with the D700 hotshoe and SB900 combo. The weight of the SB900 eventually loosens the hotshoe, meaning the internal screws holding the hotshoe in place loosens.
Presuming you bought a shoe-mount flash for your Sony A900 and set the camera and flash to manual so there's no pre-flash to prematurely trigger your strobes, and presuming your studio
lights have built-in optical slaves, you should be all set.
Unless you are using high-end Nikon Speedlights with camera and flash set for Auto FP High-Speed Sync, your top flash sync shutter speed on the D80 is 1/200 second. The black band you are seeing at faster shutter speeds is because the second curtain of the shutter begins to close before the first curtain reaches the fully-open position (which is when the flash fires). The higher the shutter speed, the shorter the gap between first and second curtains. To get full exposure with flash, there must be an instant when the shutter is fully open -- first curtain completed travel, second curtain not started yet.
"As the speed increases the final image should get lighter" applies to ISO speed. Higher shutter speeds mean less light reaching the sensor, but that's not the cause of the black bands.
Either the internal thyristor charging circuit has failed or the flash capacitor is unserviceable.
Neither fault is worth repairing. Buy a small auto-exposure flashgun and use it in the hotshoe; they're dirt cheap and there are plenty of used ones for free if you ask on FreeCycle.
You'll need to go into the DSC-V1 menus to enable the hot shoe on the top plate of the camera and you'll find that even the smallest and least specified flashgun will give better results, but try to get one with at least two aperture settings within the range f2.8 to f8. Anything outside that range is useless to you as that's the entire aperture range on the DSC-V1. You'll also need to ensure that when taking photos, the camera is set to the same aperture as the flashgun. To do this set the camera mode switch to "A" for aperture priority mode and use the thumbwheel to select the correct aperture, the camera will choose the appropriate shutter speed. You can also use "M" for manual mode in which you set both the aperture and choose the shutter speed. At night, choose 1/60 but the actual exposure will be measured in the thousandths of seconds in which the flash is illuminated.
If you're rich or lucky you'll get a Sony HVL-F32X flashgun; it dwarfs the camera and is very powerful but everything is fully automatic with no manual overrides. For this flashgun, the hotshoe menu setting must be "OFF".
Hi, I had the same sort of problem. It started with erratic small flashes but then evolved to the SB-800 not regonizing the D200 at all. The result of this is that I only get TTL and not TTL+BL+FP functionallity.
To solve this I cleaned the hotshoe on the D200 with all purpose cleaner for electical appliances (CRC 5-56). This gave minor improvment. Then I adjusted the spings to the left and right on the hotshoe on the D200 to press harder against the flash's connection (which I suppose is the grounding). Now everything works again.
You won't be able to use older TTL flashguns with the D200. Since the D70, all nikon cameras have used "iTTL", and earlier DSLRs (eg D100) have used "D-TTL". Neither of these are compatible with the older TTL system used on film cameras. The newer SB-400/600/800 flashguns are all ok, and Sigma and Metz both produce iTTL compatible flashguns. The new flashguns will work on old cameras but not vice versa.
I know this is annoying, but there were good technical reasons why Nikon changed the TTL standards.
If the 636 has an A mode (non TTL) this should work ok, otherwise it will only work in manual (if it has a manual mode).