Question about Hayward H Series Propane Electronic Ignition Heater 150,000 Btu

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My propane heater rumbles and thumps when turned on.

Its less noise when I turn the pump on to high speed.

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Sounds like you have a 2 speed pump. The heater needs high speed to operate. The noise is due to the low water flow. The water is actually boiling in the heater. Crank up the flow and that should solve your problems.

Posted on Dec 21, 2008

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My Hayward H400 will not turn on

Does the heater sound like it is trying to fire? (Fan on, clicking sound). Check your filter pressure. If it is high, it may be causing the heater not to fire because the heater doesn't know the pump is running.

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Your heater will only come on when the pump is circulating. Check to see if your pump is on or off. I am sure you already know that if you have it set to heat to 84 it should get to that temperature and maintain it within two degrees. If it doesn't, then here must be a problem. Don't immediately blame heater. Check pump operation.

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When i turn on the pumps and heater for either the spa or pool, a loud whistling noise continuously sounds. how can i bypass this problem?

Thank you for posting your question here on

IS it only with the heater on? The only possible issue that causes heater to whistle is poor air flow during combustion. If it is the heater you'll need to look at any surrounding obstructions to clean air flow...things like bushes, grass, fencing...If the heater is off and the noise persists try to narrow it down to which motor is making the noise and repair the bearings.

One last possibility would be a blower motor in the heater if it is an induced draft model. If your heater has a blower motor or two of them check them both to see which is failing and again look at getting the bearings replaced.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. You may also contact me thru our website at Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

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Sounds like a hard ball in system shortly after heater starts and water starts to circulate through heater

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Does the banging continue until the heater eventually shuts off or does it quit shortly after the heater burners start up? In either case you can repair the heater for much, much less than a new unit. The bypass valve inside the header may be the issue if it is stuck closed. You will also want to inspect the thermostatic control valve in the header and inspect the overall condition of the heat exchanger. It is likely aggressive water has damaged some or all of these parts causing the banging noise you hear.

It is also possible there is an issue with the pump and/or filter not getting enough flow thru the heater but I have to assume you have looked at those already and have narrowed the issue down to the heater. If not, check the overall system flow. If it is reduced to low the water inside the heater gets to hot and begins to boil causing the noise you here. Speeding the flow back up will eliminate the issue.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!


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I have a starite propane heater i turn it on it calls for heat it will start heating then a couple minutes later the filtration lines and heater give a loud banging noise and service heater light comes on...

This is either one of two thing.
Either you pump is clogged, or failing and not providing adequate flow, or the heat exchanger has a hole in it. I would hope that it is just a flow issue as the exchangers are very expensive.
Check the pump first, and also make sure there is no leaking water from the heater

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Raypack versa 20 year old propane heater used for hot tub pump has two speeds heater not turning on with low speed pressure turns on, but quickly cycles off then on and off repeatedly at high speed pump...

It is very hard to trll what is going on the way you describe it. It sounds like you have nothing at low speed on the pump but when you kick it up to high speed you get a cycling on and off of the heater.
You can try your pressure switch to see if it has a problem.
With the heater and pump off you will find the pre sw on your water manifold on the side of the heater. You will need to remove the side panels from the heater they are above and below the pipes coming into the heater. The pre sw will be a mushroom shaped piece that screws in to the manifold with two wires comeing out of it. It will take a small wrench (I think 7/16") unscrew this and make sure their is no rust or calcium build-up under it in the water chamber. If their is clear with a screw driver or the like and start the pump for a second to flush this out. (Careful or you will get wet) screw switch back in and run to check. If you find no problem here than it may be in the switch itself. If you bridg the sw with a jumper wire and it starts this is your problem, but you have to ck the other stuff first. Or you may be spending money on a pre sw for nothing. Do Not Just Jump Switch and Leave It At That!!!! This could ruin your heater at least or burn down your house. Of course if the filter, pump or pump baskets are dirty this will be the problem. But you say you checked those. Good luck and I hope this helped.

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I am not sure if you have solved this issue, or not, but if the PSI on the gauge is high then the problem may not be the heater. When you have the system turned on, and the PSI is reading higher than normal, just the flow of water coming out your return lines. If the flow is normal, like when you clean your filter, then see if you have a way to re-route the water so it bypasses the heater. If the PSI on gauge drops, then the issue is in the heater.

If the flow of water is slower than normal, with the PSI reading high, then you have a blockage somewhere in the system. It could be something simple like removing debris from skimmer and pump backets, to time to backwash, or clean, the filter.

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