Question about Visonik VB212PKG Car Audio Amplifier

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Broken Potentiometer My vb212 has a broken/missing potentiometer on teh bass boost. I am not sure where I can find a schematic, or just the part. Can anyone help me? The part is called a C2K5X2. I think it is a 2k ohm pot. Any ideas?

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Contact the manufacturer in the owners manual or from where you purchased the unit from, ask them where or who the manufacturer is. Good Luck

Posted on Mar 28, 2007


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A broken part ? or is only the potentiometer of the speed control thats damaged, but a wire that is broken ? without any force is hard to believe the spring element internally that moves along the carbon track of the potentiometer inbetween the speed control should have lost the contact pressure or only dirthy ?. where the resist for rpm mixing is lost. maybe marketing technical made to order it as a one-part assembly try contactspray in the potentiometer.

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Preamp changing

This is not program/software error. This is hardware error.
Damage is on the potentiometer. usually caused by a bad contact inside the potentiometer. The most common is the preamp-TYPE potentiometer.Faulty potentiometer can also occur in the other,
depending on what we hear, when (suddenly) the bass sound bigger or smaller, it mean that BASS potentiometer was bad.
Potentiometer must be replaced,because it can not be repaired or cleaned (except,you are experienced in parts repairing).. This is due to the potentiometer is to use a special type.

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Is distortion changes like we turn the OD/DS selector (changes to Boost-Natural-OD1-Blues etc)?
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I'm in the same predicament! I found this - it seems close, though the pins seem to be spaced closer together, but it looks like they might be bent to fit the wider PC board spacing. The rotating shaft also seems smaller - the original is larger than 1/4".
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Is there a way to use the Altec Lansing VS4121 Subwoofer as a stand alone?

Normally these low end systems components that depend on each other and cannot be interchangeable from other system. So if one of the components (sub woofer or right control satellite speaker) breaks or gets lost the whole system is unusable...
I was in the same situation. Got a sub woofer from VS4121 without original satellite speakers. I acquired satellite speakers from Altec Lansing 251 which used same connectors but the internal wiring was different and incompatible out of the box. Speakers are also glued together so it is impossible to open without damaging it. Not to mention there is no service documentation anywhere..
But if you like electronics you can try to make something based on the information bellow:
Altec Lansing VS4121 connector pinout
If you take the male connector (from right satellite speaker) and look at the pins and number them first row from left to right pins 1-3, second row pins 4-7, the bottom row pins 8-9 and the circle enclosure as 0
0 - Ground
1 - Speaker Right
2 - Treble (seems just like voltage control but may need to be confirmed: Min=0V; Max=voltage from Volume control Pin 9)
3 - Head Set Right
4 - Bass signal (not sure what the exact original design is as I have not opened the speaker) But seems like they use 50K potentiometer and some sort of RC low pass filter configuration. When potentiometer is set to Min it is shorted with ground. When set to Max it is taking signal from Right and Left Head Set (pins 3 and 5) combined through some larger resistors and low pass filter.
5 - Head Set Left
6 - Ground for Head set (grounds 0 and 6 seems to be connected in the subwofer but within the right satelite speaker they seem to be isolated with separate leads to sub)
7 - Power ON/OFF. When OFF or head set jack plugged = 0V; When ON and head set jack unplugged = 5V
8 - 5V Power in
9 - Volume (min=0V; max=5V). It seems they use 50K potentiometer but probably anything >10k should work.
At minimum for standalone sub woofer you will need to implement:
- Power On.Off (switch between pins 8,7)
- Volume control (50k potentiometer (probably anything beteen 10k and 50k will do)between pin 7 and 0 with variable output to pin 9
- Bass control - join two resistors R (I used 7k) and lets call this join point A. Attach other ends of the resistors to pins 3 and 5 respectively. Attach 50k potentiometer (I used 10k) between point A and ground 0. Attach Variable pin of the potentiometer to pin 4 (Bass input signal). Attach capacitor C between Pin 4 and Ground pin 0 (I used Electrolytic 1uF with negative end to ground) . Resistor R and capacitor C should make simple passive low pass filter (Google for formula) that should bypass anf frequency higher than 80-120Hz to ground and feed frequencies lower than 80-120Hz to pin 4.
PS: I managed to hack 251 control satellite speaker to somewhat work with VS 4121 Subwoofer but that is another subject. All electronic parts were salvaged from old broken TV so total cost was $0 but took several days of tinkering for speakers that I could buy used for $10-20 :)

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1 Answer

My bass drum stopped working. The module wont pick up any signal and ive tried everything short of replacing it. Not sure if its the wiring the module or the drum sensor itself.. Everything else works just...

Verify the module by connecting a different pad to the bass drum and see if you can trigger the bass drum sound. This would test the module. Now connect the bass to a different input and see if it will trigger that input. SOME of the triggers have a very small potentiometer in them. I have seen vibration break this pot loose rendering the unit inoperative. Also some people have pushed a screwdriver into the pot too hard and broken it off. Once you know it is the bass trigger, open the unit and look for damage. The sensor is usually a piezo disk. These can break away from their attachment. Reattach with contact cement after cleaning the residue.

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There is a repetative clicking sound whenever I use the treble on my guitar. what is causing this?

Did you mean the treble control potentiometer (knob)?

This was posted as an amplifier problem, but since you mentioned that the use of the treble (button?) on the guitar is causing the clicking, i would have the treble potentiometer checked first.

It could have a loosely soldered or broken wire on any of the tabs, oxydized slider contacts, bad ground (negative) connnection, possibly dirt or damage on the resistive track inside the pot.

A broken wire can easily be resoldered, but if there is internal damage or oxydation, the potentiometer should be either cleaned or replaced.

In short words - it may be a faulty treble pot.

There are ways to disassemble and clean a potentiometer, but the difficulty of this task may vary and depends mostly on the type and build of the pot.

The other alternative is to have it replaced.



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Either the potentiometer which sits behind the user knob has got a broken track or it is full of debris

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Give the spindle a few full rotations and another dose of cleaner , then give it a try

It is best if you take a cover off and apply the cleaner direct to the potentiometer

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Broken Potentiometer

If all else fails and you cannot find the correct pot for it then you might try using two resistors for each "layer" of the pot (there are probably two sections)that add up to 2K ohm and solder them in as a permenant setting to replace the pot. Maybe choose a value like 1.5K for one resister and .5K for the other. This would set your volumn to about three quarters of full. It's not necesarily a good solution, but it will get your amp going again. P.S. It may be a 2.5 K pot with two sections. Good luck.

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