Question about Bose Lifestyle 12 System
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Bose Cube Speakers separated
I had the same problem with a Bose separated double-cube Acoustimass speaker/array but was able to fix it as follows:
small, thin, flat-head screwdriver
1. Disconnect the speaker wires from the cube.
2. Remove the grille from the top speaker cube. It just pops off.
3. Insert a small, thin, flat-head screwdriver around the perimeter of the speaker. You will have to pry lightly to break the glue’s seal.
4. Using a set of pliers (large, plumber-sized) wiggle the speaker until it comes free. You might need to grip it top to bottom and then left to right. The speaker will come free of the case.
5. Remove the white insulation to get a clear view of the dislodged brace/connector.
6. Stack the top and bottom cubes. Make sure that the rubber seal between the cubes is seated properly and that the black and white cables are not pinched.
7. Using the C-clamp, compress the brace/connector until it seats on one side. Loosen the C-clamp and compress the opposite side. The brace/connector should snap into place. Be sure the make sure that you do not pinch the speak wires that are running through the center of the brace/connector.
8. Test the articulation. It should be the same as your other speakers.
9. Replace the white insulation in the back of the speaker case.
10. Press the speaker into the case’s face. If you wish, you can apply your preference of glue to the edge of the speaker prior to pressing it into the case.
11. Snap the grille onto the speaker.
12. Connect the speaker wires to the cube and you are done.
You should be good to go.
Posted on May 17, 2008
My display has not been working for years. Replaced c17 cap wich was 33uF 63 volts on lower pcb board( only one on system) . Old cap was good so this was not the problem. Replaced c16 wich was 100uF 25 volts with a 100uF 63volts. Display works, old cap read low. Both c17, and c16 are located on the lower left hand corner of the larger pcb looking from the front of the unit. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jan 15, 2009
You can only Connect a iPod via a iPod dock
Apple iPod Univeral Dock
and use either
Apple Composite AV Cable or Apple Component AV Cable
based on what Output you iPod Allows.
the list of which iPod that is supported is listed on each page of the AV Cables above.
You can use a IR Blaster Cable with the iPod Dock to control the iPod also.
Posted on Feb 01, 2009
Honestly speaking you should probably not work on this unit yourself: "There are no user serviceable parts inside"
Even if you are an accomplished Electrical Engineer Bose will not provide the required schematics to troubleshoot and repair this unit.
Are you still undaunted . . . then if the case is the original LS-25 series, there is a hidden catch at the end of the cover furthest from the input connectors that needs to be rotated (until a plastic tab is sticking out), which you can do with a flat bladed screw driver, and you also need to remove a few screws from the bay where all of the connectors reside. Remove the two knobs from the side of the cover. Then hit the case with your fist at the far end (plastic tab) and the cover should then pop off. You may have to hit it hard, with an upward motion.
Note there is not going to be much you can do to fix this beyond replacing the fuse. (Note that the fuse may be soldered in.) The bass amplifier is op-amp based with discrete class G output stage and the twiddler amps are monolithics with discrete class G circuitry shared between several channels.
The power transformer has a thermal fuse in it as well which is not replaceable. If you play the unit loudly for long periods of time and it is not adequately ventilated it is possible for the thermal fuse to open - if this is the case you will definitely need to send it in for service.
When plugged in there are hazardous voltages present on the top PC board where the power connector is located, whether or not the unit is turned on.
Power switching is via a triac controlled by whichever front end you have CD-5? 12V should be present on the mini plug (tip I think, but might be ring) when the music center is on.
There is also offset detection circuitry that will latch the unit off should any output have more than a volt or so of offset.
For more information see following web site:
Posted on Mar 01, 2009
i did have encounter the same problem!!!! what i did was have the whole capacitor replace ! I didn't bother to have them check beside its will cost you less than $10 this is how a capacitor will look like http://www.allproducts.com/manufacture97/qiyu/product1.jpg . check the ( + )positive ( - )nagative by marking either one on the PCB board before you proceed! very important! good luck
Posted on Dec 06, 2009
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