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Specs don't appear to be available. Freezers are usually rated in amps. To find the watts, multiply the amps by the voltage. Would also depend on the cubic feet of the freezer as the bigger the freezer, the more amps the compressor draws.
Only thing I could find is its energy star rating.
230 V @ 50 Hz; 64 W for European version, so 0.27 Amps ; if you're in the US, just call a retailer and ask them to read the voltage and wattage or amperage off the nameplate of the machine. Watts = Volts x Amps. Since US voltage is 110, 64 Watts would mean the machine was drawing about 0.6 Amps. That's assuming it's an equivalent motor to the European version.
you are missing the voltage supply here to get an definitive answer
for 240 volts drawing 4.8 amps the required wattage is 1152
for 120 volts the wattage is 576 watts
for 120 volts with a current of 900 watts , it equates to 7.5 amps
with 240 volts with a current of 1150 watts , it equates to 4.79 amps
so you can see the problem by not stating the supply voltage
get access to an cable clamp amp meter / watt meter from an electrician and read the current on starting the ac unit
if it exceeds 900 watts for 120 volts or 1150 for 240 volts , consider a bigger generator
You're not going to be able to do this with just a known Horse Power.
There are 3 elements to the equation, with any two, you can work out the third.
If you want to know how the amperage, you will need to know the voltage and wattage of the motor. I imagine that you already know the voltage (It's going to be 220V or 110 volt)
Watts divided by volts = Amps
A 220v 1000 watt motor (1000 divided by 220) will draw 4.55 amps A 110v 800 watt motor (800 divided by 110) will draw 7.27 amps
Bear in mind that most washing machines have a couple of windings for wash and spin. As an average, the was winding will usually be about 500 watts to spin and about 250 watts to wash. ALSO, bear in mind that if you are using this data for a WASHING MACHINE, then there is a water heating element in there too and that draws about 2Kw (2000 watts)
Dont just take this as read, you DO need to check wattages, but, working on what I have just said, the max consumption on a 220V machine will look like this:
At Spin, with a 500 Watt consumption: (500/220) = 2.3 amps While Washing with a 250 watt consumption: (250/220) = 1.14 amps
Consider that the WASH and HEAT may be running at the same time. 2Kw heating (2000/220) = 9.1 amps PLUS 1.14 amps for the motor - Total wattage 10.24 amps
Watts / Volts = Amps Amps x Volts = Watts Watts divided by amps = Volts
The most important spec that you will need is the LRA rating. What this stands for is locked rotor amps. The LRA rating is what the AC unit will draw from the inverter while the compressor starts up. This is a very important spec when sizing an inverter for use with an AC unit. After you get this spec you will multiply it by the voltage and this will be the startup wattage needed by the inverter.
For example if your LRA is 60.6 amps if you multiply this by 115 you will get roughly 7000 watts at start-up. The next thing to take into consideration for a AC unit is battery bank size.Your next step in setting up a system for use with an AC unit is finding a sufficient recharge source for the batteries. You will want to have a minimum of a 150 amp alternator to recharge a system with a small AC. I do not know whether you will be able o accommodate them. Why don't you go for solar power as standby OR a small generator????????
You need to use a transformer and it needs to be capable of supplying enough power to operate your humidifier. There should be a plate on the humidifier that shows it's requirements in Voltage and either AMPS or WATTS. The transformer needs to be able to supply approx 20% more Amps or Watts, at least, than your humidifier uses. It's ok if it can supply a lot more than this but not if it supplies the bare amount required or less. The transformer will show this as Output in either WATTS or AMPS.
As some appliances quote AMPS and others quote WATTS you may need to convert between amps and watts this is how you do it. WATTS = VOLTAGE multiplied by AMPS. and AMPS = WATTS divided by VOLTAGE. Also note Kw stands for Kilowatts or thousands of watts.
The voltage you're drawing is 110 so that's the figure you use.
When you are ready to test run the unit you should take an amperage draw reading on the elements. The formula to see if the elements are drawing the correct amps is: (voltage x amps=watts) example: If a heating element is 1500 watts and your voltage is 120 volts, then your amps will be 12.5 amps. (120v x 12.5A=1500W) The easiest way to check amp draw is with a clamp on amp meter.
Excessive current draw can be caused by a short in the wiring, especially the output. Also, an amp may draw excessive current when operated into a lower impedance load than it can handle.
Too low of a supply voltage may result in the amp drawing excessive current, especially when operated at or near it's rated output. Voltage multiplied by the current equals watts. So if the amp is trying to produce X number of watts, the lower the voltage, the more current it needs. A power wire that is too small or too long may have too high of a voltage drop. A high resistance in the ground connection can also result in a significant voltage drop. Again, too small, too long, loosely fastened, or perhaps corroded. I'd check all wiring
Internal component failure can also cause excessive current draw. In that case, the amp needs service.