Question about Washing Machines

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Agitator won't agitate

Dear Sir,
I really hope you can send this to my email becuase I'm not sure I will find your answer among all the answers on this site.
Here is my problem: The machine I have is a Kenmore 80 series, heavy duty. The model number is 22892100. The serial number: CL 421 9011. Type: 111, Amps 10, Volts 120, Hz 60.

The agitator won't spin. There is also a blue lock ring around the center of the agitator (you probably know what I'm talking about) that I lifted up to unlock. I can pull the up but it doesn't come off. It just feels like it's springed-locked in place, kind of thing. If I had a manual, I could probably figure out how to get it back in place so that it will agitate again. But I bought it second hand, just a few years old and they lost the manual. Can you help? I'm kind of desparate to get it into use as it is our only machine.

Thanks alot!

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  • dlutz1005 Dec 18, 2008

    Thank you. I will check according to your directions and see if I can accept this solution. I will get back to you. Thank you very much. A little challenge, I am partially disabled. I can not do this alone. Give me time to find someone to help me.

  • dlutz1005 Dec 20, 2008

    I tried first, before anything else, to be sure the lock ring around the agitator was firmly in place. This seemed to solve the problem! Thank you.

  • dlutz1005 Dec 20, 2008

    Thank you for offering all your helpful troubleshooting ideas. As it turns out, the solution was a simple one. Appreciate your service. Will keep your ideas in case of future problems and did find it helpful to know what you shared.

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Your machine probably has a broken coupling.
Click here for explanation

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

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Check the following: Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. Motor coupler Many washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it. Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.) Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician. Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley. Transmission The transmission may have a worn or broken gear, or some other internal problem. Agitator The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.

Good Luck

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

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It doesn't agitate If your washer doesn't agitate, check these:

Lid switch
Motor coupler
Belts
Clutch
Drive motor
Drive pulleys
Transmission
Agitator
Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.

Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)

Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.

Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.

Transmission The transmission could have either of these problems:

  • Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may not agitate properly or at all.


  • The transmission may have a worn or broken gear, or some other internal problem.


If you suspect a transmission problem, you may have to call a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.

Agitator The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

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  • 306 Answers

Sounds like a stripped gear or a stretched and loose drive belt. You have to turn off the water and disconnect the hoses and turn the washer over on it's side and check from the bottom. You will see the belt and see if you can rotate it without the gears (pulleys it goes around) moving. You hold one of them and then try to turn another and if it turns then the belt is loose enough to slip. On the main (Center) shaft is where you want to hold the belt and see if the pully will turn. If so it is loose on the shaft and there is probably a screw on it to tighten it to the shaft. If the belt is stretched max cost should be about $25.

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

  • AbdulRahiman S Dec 18, 2008

    else its a good chance the coupler is broke. If the lid switch is bad your washer won't spin,but the motor also won't hum. So I doubt the lid switch. Could also be something in the pump stalling the motor. More than likely the coupler bad. Common problem on these washers. u will hav to replace the coupler..

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