I HAVE A 13 YR OLD GE GAS DRYER THAT WILL NOT HEAT.
MODEL# (DDG8580SAMWW) I DO NOT HAVE VOLTGE COMING TO THE BURNER. I CHECKED THE HIGH LIMIT & OPERATING THERMOSTATS & THEY ARE OK . WHAT ELSE DO I CHECK. WHERE ARE THESE PARTS LOCATED & HOW DO I TEST THEM. PLEASE BE SPECIFIC WITH DETAILS.
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Re: I HAVE A 13 YR OLD GE GAS DRYER THAT WILL NOT HEAT.
Look up a WE4X800 and get one. The fuse is mounted near the blower housing and monitors the heat. Most likely a blocked vent pipe blew it so clear the vent and change the fuse.If you get a pix of a WE4X800 then you can find that puppy on your dryer. If it is blown the dryer will run but there will be no power to the burner assembly.If you have more questions just comment on this answer and I will get back to you.
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If the coils are bad the unit will light with flame for 4 - 8 times then all of a sudden the ignitor will glow, kick off with no gas coming threw valve. it sounds like the high limit thermostat is short cycling the flame. This is the thermostat that sits on top of the burner chamber. remove 1 screw from the thermostat and blend it upwards away from the heat. Then plug unit back in and test to see if the flame stays on longer. Click here to see maytag dryer no heat posts. Contact me anytime here. Hope this helps..
it can be the ignitor as described above,or the gas valve coils on the gas valve getting weak or gone completely,or even the high limit thermostat on the burner housing open and also the flame sensor next to the high limit but these rarely go bad,the thermal fuse can be bad but on these if this goes out the whole unit quits and it sounds as though it still turns just no heat
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly.
if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
check outthis electric no heat tip...
Your power for the burner assy goes on a series circuit from the timer to the high-limit thermostat to the operating thermostat to the thermal fuse to the gas burner assy, thru the motor centrifugal switch to the door switch. EACH of these must be functioning for the burner to light.
This manual will help with some of the how to do it as far as component access, removal and replacement of parts.
it may be the thermal fuse on the blower housing thats open,the radiant sensor or the high limit thermostat located on the burner tube, or the boost and secondary coils on the gas valve body that are open or defective
it could be the thermal fuse on the dryer vent housing open,the radiant sensor or high limit thermostat on the burner tube housing,the ignitor on the burner that glows to ignite the gas,or the boost and secondary gas valve coils on the gas valve that open the gas valve to supply gas to the burner,all items need to be accessed thru the removal of the front cover and checked with an ohmmeter for continuity or resistance
It sounds as simple as the glosil/igniter went bad or the high limit thermostat are not working at all.
Check your high limit on top of the burner for contuinity first.
If that unit is fine then locate the gas unit and check to see if you igniter is working - if it isn't getting red just go ahead and replace it.
That should solve the problem.
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.