What I've got is a RCP 402S heater my friend gave me they used it in their back room.We had it stored in are rental house and someone cut the cord the heater says it's a 240v I want to wire a new plug on the end to use it in a 220 outlet for a kitchen stove. How do I wire a new plug on?
Normally you will have four wires in the cord: a red, a black, awhite and a green. The red and black are the hot or power wires the white is the neutral and the green is ground. Purchase a plug that matches your outlet pattern (that will plug in). Shut off the circuit breaker that feeds the outlet and remove the cover. strip the insulation back on the cord, determine which wire goes to which lug or terminal and connect the wires to the plug. reassemble the outlet and the plug, turn on the circuit and test. If all of this is greek to you, call a local electrician and pay them the $50 to $80 to put the plug on for you, its safer that way.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You want to add a brand new sunroom onto your existing house. The problem is that you are not sure how to heat it. Electric heating with baseboard heaters will spoil the look that you want from your new room. Hot water baseboard is going to present all types of problems getting hooked in to the existing system and piping it. And, if you have hot air heating system then you will have the problem of getting ductwork to the room. There is another way to heat this room easily and efficiently.
Radiant heating has been one of the most comfortable and efficient ways for heating for many years. The problem has been in the past to find a good heating source for small radiant floors that will be affordable, effective and efficient.
This problem has been solved now, with the availability of small new electric combination heater- circulator units. These units use small electric heating elements together with a small circulator pump to give you a all in one heating source and circulator pump.
Now you just have to lay your tubing in the floor of the room you are adding on to your house. Then you run that tubing into your existing basement or other room in your house. The tubing and the electric are attached to the heating unit.Then, wire a thermostat to the unit, and you are now ready to make heat. This really makes heating a new addition room very inexpensive and easy to do.
The greatest thing about using this type of heating system is that most average do-it-yourself types can do this. All that is needed is a basic knowledge of plumbing and electric.
If you are thinking of building that little add-on and are worried about how you will heat it, think about using radiant floor heat and a small electric heater-circulator to do your project.
This problem can be trouble shot by checking: The fuse. Are you 100% sure it is good? Get a new one unless you are sure. You said you replaced the resistor but still check it again to be sure it did not cook recently. It will appear crusty,melted carbon deposits. If you bought a good NEW heater motor check it again by getting or making some cheap jumper leads and by unplugging the heater connector under the hood, connect one of the leads to the battery then to one of the posts of the heater. Connect the other jumper to to the other post and to the connector on the motor. It should whirl around and scare the heck out of you it you get the polarity right : ) now, onto something more fun and where I think your problem is. Your control panel.... Using a phillips screwdriver, remove the screws from your face plate/facia/dash moulding covering your stereo/climate control panels. Screws located under eye glass basin,in back of cigarette ash bin and below I think. It pops off and exposes the screws to your climate control module. 4 screw/nuts allow you to pull out your climate module box. Check your connections. Most likely, your selector switch is melted. Perhaps even the harness that plugs into it is melted too. Replace the blower selector switch (small screw removes it) with a new one. Autozone carries them. If your wiring is toast, make a drawing of your color wires BEFORE you cut them free (what post on the switch the wire plugged onto by aligning the plug orientation to the post orientation "mated connections") and close to the connector as possible making sure the wire is good. Get some heavier gauge wiring and splice in and solder neat and strong extensions onto the cut wires. While you are at your auto store, pick up the appropriate female plug in connectors to fit over the blower speed selector pins. Solder these onto your extensions as well and liquid tape all bare wiring. Plug them onto the correct plug to the blower motor switch. YOUR VERY DETAILED DRAWING that you made. When I did this, I made my wire extensions about 8 inches long so I had plenty of room to solder and work. Check your connections,tape them to avoid shorts and use liquid tape on the blower speed connections if there is bare wire. Turn your vehicle on run through your selector speeds. You should also replace your RELAY. It is located on psngr side under glove box. Buy a good one. Replace this even if it appears to be working as they can get worn and as your motor gets worn, allow extra juice to backfeed and kill your heater components again. I hope this helps. If all of this fails your wiring harness may be cooked but I think this is your blower speed selector switch. I will be on here to check on you the next few days to see if you need any more help. Let me know how things turned out so I can help you more if needed. This is a very common problem with this model. Take care.
There are two knobs on it and two selector switches.
The switches you can switch on only one for half power and two for full power.
One knob is the most important the thermostat which set the maximum temperature to reach in the room and when it reached it switch off the heating elements. Adjust to most comfortable one for you, it is not in degrees scale but in number 1-9 but you can test it and decide.
Grundfos is a p. o. s. I have a new system cu 301 and I have had to get it repaired twice by Fogle Pump and Supply. These guys are real rip of artists in Washington State and should be reported to the BBB. Dont Use Fogle if you need a well
The tilt collum moving up and down sometimes pulls the wires out of the switches in the streering collum. But that doesn't explain the heater going out. The battery connections are the first to cheack. There may be other things that don't work that you haven't checked or don't know if there off even though. The battery may not be being charged by the altenator. The underhodd fuse rely center needs checked to see ifd everythings working or not. The heater has a fuse in the underdash fuse panel This panel is known to fail where the fuses plug into the panel and may need repaired or replaced. The covers come off the steering collum with screws though the bottom Phillips or torx 15 With the covers off inspecte the wires on the left top as they pulg into the turn signal switch. The wires pull out of the plug. Unplug the connewctor and check that all the wires are fullly seated in the plug and the locks that hold the wires break. The plug socket is available from Ford and the ones I;ve changed they had in stock. The part number for the plug is right on the part and your parts guy at ford will reconize the part number. The wire harness pulls down in the collumand needs pulled back up and held so this doesn't hapen again
It is fairly easy to replace the cord, you will have to open the case. Follow the wire to the Control board. Cut the cord close to the control board, but leaving room to work with, at the wire ends, (leave 3in or so to work with) or undo any screws, match your new cord to the old by striping back the main insulation, checking the colors of the wires, match the wires color for color. Get some wire nuts from H-depot or Lowe. Twist the wires together, screw on the nut put back together pulg it up.
Try a ruling out a couple of things first before opening up the handle:
1) First lets make sure your outlet has power
a) can you plug anything else in and have it work?
b) is the vacuum plugged into a non-switched outlet?
c) will the vacuum work from a different outlet - in a different room?
2) Check the plug. Are the prongs loose? If so, you'll need to cut the
plug off, splice back the two wires (Black and White), then connect
to a new plug. You can get a new plug for $1-2.00 at any hardware
3) Time to open up the handle:
a) sometimes the wires connected to the switch can become loose
and fall off. if that is the case just reconnect by plugging them
back onto the switch. You may also consider using pliers to
compress the connector onto the switch terminal.
The green and red buttons on the phone aren't used for making phone calls and ending phone calls. On all W880i's that were manufactured for vodafone usage the buttons are wrong and confusing. Me and my friend both have the same phone. He's on orange and I'm on T-Mobile but the phone has been unlocked it was a vodafone phone. Our buttons are different. His are clear in telling you what there for. Mine isn't. The green one is used to connect to something which i haven't figured out yet either e-mail or internet and the red button is to access your short cut menu. Its alot clearer on other W880i's than it is on ours. Its not a mistake it's just the way they're made. Hope this helps.