I can't get the temperature of my Kenmore model 16322 above 200 degrees. I've cleaned the tubes, used a new tank, let the regulator and hose empty out between tanks and cranked the valve on the tank to full open. The first burner lights fine. The second burner lights but pops, sputters and hisses the flame is weak. The third burner lights fine but reduces the pressure on the first 2. The 4th burner won't light. Then the 3rd goes out by itself. Pressure reduces with each burner I turn on. Flames linger in the box areas between burners. The grill is 2 years old and this problem has come and gone. Now its always stuck this way. Seems like not enough pressure to work properly.
Dave from Phoenix, AZ
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Re: Loss of pressure on Kenmore 16322
I can tell you EXACTLY what is wrong. Remove the tank and open all valves to the grill. Reconnect the tank and turn it on just slightly. Relight the grill. Ther is a safety device in the tank that needs to be reset. The only way to do it is removing the tank.
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Typical R134 pressures are 25-35 p.s.i. low side and 200-300 p.s.i. high side, all measurements taken with ambient temperature above 85 degrees farenheit. At idle, with fan high and system in recirculate mode, you should be able to attain an output temperature at the vents of 40 degrees below ambient.
Hello, There should be a sensor in the air snorkel and if it is sprayed with a choke or brake cleaner it is probably unreliable. This part can be cleaned with Electronics spray. The sensor measures the incoming Air temperature and makes engine adjustments based on temperature.
You can get a free scan at Autozone, Advance, or Oreilys autoparts stores. There are some malfunctions which will not set a Code and yours is temperature sensitive, so the scanner will have to catch it at the right temperature.
Looking at the thresholds you have given, there are a few other possibilities. If you look at hard acceleration, manifold pressure drops and you are saying the engine runs smoother with less manifold pressure. Could be a bad MAP sensor. Then looking at temperatures above 75 degrees, pressure in the fuel tank increases and the Evaporative Emissions system must adjust to capture the gas vapors. If the Evaporator solenoid is misfiring you may be feeling it cut-out. You have replaced the fuel pressure regulator, but has the regulator been adjusted? Some systems use a Relay to help the pressure regulator buffer the constant changes in demand to the fuel pump. The Relay could be bad making it seem that the pressure regulator was bad when it actually was not.
Check with one of the above 3 autoparts places for info on this Relay and if your model has it. I hope my solution is very helpful and that your problem is a less expensive part.
Here is a list of oven error codes for your model Kenmore oven.
F0 indicates a Stuck key pad.
F1 and F7 may mean relay is turned on.
indicates that the oven is over temperature in one of the following
modes within either cooking or cleaning mode of operation. The control
is sensing over 615 degrees with the door lock circuit in the unlock
mode. Control senses oven temperature above 915 degrees with the door in
the locked mode.
F3 and F4 indicates an open or shorted oven sensor or sensor circuit.
F5 indicates a loss of relay drive circuit.
FF indicates a loss of door motor safety switch.
FC indicates a door lock circuit problem.
the display of your control is flashing "F" followed by a number or
letter its a range malfunction. Press the clear/off pad. Let the range
cool for 1 hour and place the range back into operation. If the problem repeats, call for service.
It sounds like sealant may need to be used on connections. Use appropriate one for gas fittings.
Noting where the leak is occuring is important. Another possibility is the fuel is being somehow "jetted" from a hole or orifice in a burner tube to the area behind the control panel. These are hard to see what happens first when it does happen.
I just got done having the same problem. Disconnect the tank. Let the hose hang there for 5 or more minutes to drain any gas. Reattach the hose to the tank. Turn the knob on top of the tank SLOWLY 1/4 of a turn. Light the first burner on the left. Turn the knob on top of the tank another 1/4 turn. Light the rest of the burners from left to right. Don't open the tank valve any more than 1/2 turn altogether. When you changed tanks and hooked up the hose, the regulator in the hose cut back on the flow when the new blast of gas came through. (Its a safety feature.) So draining out the gas from the hose to reset the regulator and turning on the gas SLOWLY should give you good pressure.