It will start, but when you rev the engine, it bogs down...and the head does not spin fast enough to cut through grass...
Carburetor is probably gummed up inside. There are very fine needle-thin holes in the spray nozzel through which gas has to flow. if they are gummed up, you will have an engine that starts, but has no power. try to take the brass nozzel out of the bottom of the carburetor, it unscrews & may be kinda tight. but take it out & clean the smallest holes with a thin piece of wire. should work great after that.
SOURCE: my whipper snipper starts well but has no power to
Battery is NO GOOD.... need new ones, these quickly go bad, if not religiously charged and discharged. You must charge a long time when first get them, and then as soon as flat must go back on charger, for at least 4hours... regardless what is said. If ever removed before properly charged, then it will "remain" at that level, next charge and so on... All batteries MUST be flat before recharge, and full before used again, no exceptions.
SOURCE: Homelite trimmer runs, but can't run attachments very fast.
Doesn't sound like piston and ring problem. Sounds more like the flex shaft that connects to the engine may have an end that is worn not allowing for the extra load when you connect the attachments. Check the ends of the top flex shaft.
SOURCE: string trimmer cutting attachment doesn't turn fast enough
Take the shaft off at the motor,see if any thing is worn there.Also,take head off of end of weed eater,check for grass or any build up in there.
SOURCE: strimmer starts ok but strimmer head does not spin
It sounds like the square end in the handle has rounded some and let cable slip
SOURCE: I was given a Homelite
Check your fuel filter if you have one, normally they will be located in the fuel tank.
If the mower/weedeater is over a year old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.
Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Keep in mind that the float for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instrucitons you get with the carburetor kit.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their orginal position before you started.
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There is a round brass colored object in the bottom of the carb that is held in place by a 1/2 round keeper ring...Is that what you are talking about?
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