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Depends on type of hinge, If it swings back open after you closed it then either the cupboard is not level (old style hinge)...
Or the spring inside hinge is bad/broken and not holding it closed. If the door opens back just a bit (1/2 inch or so) see if hinge has adjustable screws.
First check to make sure that the hinges are securely fastened to the door jamb. Gently try to tighten all screws but be careful not to over-tighten or strip the screw heads. It's possible loose screws could be causing the door to hang slightly making it fit improperly into the door jamb.
It's also possible that the door frame isn't 100% "true" and it could be causing the storm door to get caught along the top or bottom edge. You can check with a level to make sure that both sides of the door are plumb (perfect 90 degree angle). You can also use a carpenter's square to check that all of the interior angles in the door jamb are 90 degrees respective to each other.
If everything is square then it could be that the hinges on the storm door are not aligned properly. With the storm door slightly ajar use a level on the vertical edge both at the top and the bottom. It should, ideally, be the same as the door jamb. If it's slightly off you could try shimming either the top or bottom hinge as necessary to even the storm door until it is aligned with the door jamb.
If you find that your door jamb is not "true" then you may need to consult with a carpenter or storm door installation expert to find a way to trim your storm door or refit it for easy opening and closing. Many older homes settle over time and sometimes door jambs slip out of alignment. The door itself may still open and close as usual but it may have sufficient gaps on all sides to prevent it from getting stuck. The newer storm door may be too tight a fit and catching on a door jamb that has settled out of true.
You need to tell us what shower head it is. Usually the flow restrictor is in the section that screws onto the pipe that goes into the wall. Be careful when you take it off so that you don't mar the chrome finish,
The screws are most likely under a decorative cap. look at the edges of the lock you should see a small indentation], if you find one use a flat blade screw driver to pop it off. Screws will be under cap.
If they look like the image. The 2 screws are the mounting holes, you screw those to the top of the door. Edge of metal support alined with the edge of the door, both in the same position one at the front corner of the door and the other at the back corner. The roller is mounted with a screw through the diagonal slot on the side. There are 3 positions. You place it in whichever position you need so it clears the floor. The highest position will give you the least floor clearance, the lowest will give you the most floor clearance. Normally both rollers are in the same position, unless your floor is not level.
I assume the latch mechanism is still intact... the piece on the edge of the door that locks inside the strike plate when the door is shut -- if that's the case the only thing left to do is align the two knobs, one on iether side of the door, making sure the shaft goes thru the latch mechanism properly (it only fits thru one way) and then sandwich it tightly to the door and tighten it together with a phillips head screwdriver... some kwikset locks require you to turn one of the knobs to get the bolt heads to seat properly.
I'm not familiar with the chelsea model but they are all very similar... if you have more than the 2 knobs with a long shaft on one then chances are the solution above does not apply... you probably will have a knob with shaft and then a flat plate with holes, a finished plate and a plain knob... in this case align the knob and shaft thru the latch mechanism, place the plate with holes on the other side of the door and twist it slightly so the bolt heads lock in and tighten the bolts to the plate... now snap the finished plate over that and push the knob over the exposed shaft that remains... you'll need a flat head screw driver to lock the knob on where a small spring loaded piece fits into a cutout on the handle...
Try enlargeing striker hole with tiny dremel electric sand drum disc. Throw bolt is binding and you may also try looseing all install screws and tighen each one at a tme as you test plunger each tighten until you have success,do not forget to unloosen throw bolt screws to.
Hope I can help! I have worked with Emtek before and some of the front plates are secured with screws from the the other side of the door. You may want to check if this is the case. if so remove the screws so you can remove the exterior plate. Best of luck. Hope this works!