The problem is that after several hours filming on timelapse the microscope light switches off and no further photos are taken. On exiting the programme the microscope will not restart unless the computer is rebooted. Windows 2000 states that the device is working correctly and all other devices will operate using the usb connection. The time taken for the microscope to stop filming has varied from 2 hours to 24 hours. The problem does not appear to be dependent on temperature since I have left running in a cold room. Will a usb connection 'timeout'?
Depending on the model of your USB, (1.1 or 2.0) it may or may not time out. With a 2.0 speed USB it will not typically tome out until about 30 hours of very high activity use. A 1.1, on the other hand can get to do that a lot. If your USB is a 2.0 get a computer expert to check that it is not malfunctioning. If it is a 1.1, I would suggest getting a USB upgrade.
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210 wide camera is auto detect the environment. If you face it under bright light, the flash will auto off, if away from bright light, it will auto have flash. for photo have blue hue do show me the image, i take a look
The maximum number of shots possible is 24 or 36 depending on the film length, although sometimes you can squeeze an extra one out of a film. If the film loaded correctly you will get a frame counter in the LCD. If the film did not load correctly, then you have not taken any photos as the film is still in the canister and unexposed.
Take the camera to a totally dark room (and I do mean absolutely pitch black) and open the camera. if you can feel the film canister and just the short leader then it didn't load and you can turn on the lights and try loading again. if there is just the canister and no film sticking out, then the film has rewound and you can turn the lights on and send the film for developing to see if the camera worked. If you feel film going from the canister right across to the take-up spool, then your film is still being used and you should close the back of the camera before turning on the lights again. The latter does not necessarily mean that your camera is OK though as it should be showing frame numbers, but it may be usable still. If after a few more shots the camera is still behaving just the same then it's got a fault.
A faulty t70 is really not worth repairing. It's complex, spares are mostly unavailable, and they are almost worthless even in perfect condition. Any of the earlier non-t-series Canon FD-mount bodies are far better and a lot more fixable. They are also usually near worthless and can be picked up free or very cheaply, but as they have less to go wrong and were designed with repairs in mind then many common faults can be fixed.
Your film may have gotten hot or has passed the expiration date. If the tint is splotchy, there could be a light leak, either in the camera or the film cassette after you take it out of the camera. If all your photos were taken indoors under incandescent light, they will also be tinted reddish.
if you check the operation for spliting to a photo tube. PG 49
you can see the procedure for using a camera
(there is a control pin on the side of the scope (shown on pg 49) which you have to operate to switch to the camera output... you should then be able to take your photos :)
I am having exactly the same problem (I have a T550). On the last film I shot, the only way to advance the film was to pull the battery out and re-insert it every time. When I printed that film, all the frames are blank!
Kodak's FAQ about "clearing the logic" suggests a solution for that problem.
1. Turn camera off
2. Pull battery out
3. Turn camera on
4. Click the shutter approximately 6 times
5. Turn camer off
6. Repeat step 4
7. Reinstall battery
I just tried that but the problem persists. I am now going to leave the battery out for several hours; maybe this will help. Otherwise, well it is time to bite the bullet and buy a digital !