2 year unit blow heat for about 2 minutes then shuts off
The weather king gas furnace is only 2 years old and has been nothing but one problem after another. In the 2 winters that I have owned the unit it has needed repairs. The most recent problem which is right now has lead me to replace the limit switch, gas value transformer and the control board. Nothing seem to work. The point of replacing my other old weather king with a new one was to avoid this headache. Are any of these parts cover? What is covered with unit? PLEASE HELP!!!
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If it is an electric furnace, the heat sequencers usually take 45 seconds to possibly 1 1/2 minutes to fully stage on. This depends on how many elements you have. Of course, once they stage on, one or more elements COULD be burnt out.
If its a gas furnace over ten/twelve years old, the thermally activated control should start the blower at approximately 140 degrees. That usually occurs within one or two minutes of main gas opening.
If its a gas furnace that's relatively new, the blower comes on through a circuit board after a call for heat is initiated and could run and blow cold air even if the main gas flame is in flame failure.
At the opposite side of the burners from the igniter there is a small metal probe/rod situated where the flame would blow across it during operation. This rod is for flame verification so the gas valve will know that the gas is being ignited. Often that probe will get carbon built up on it which will cause the furnace to light but then abruptly shut off because "the probe doesn't know there is a flame there". A fine grit sandpaper works well to restore it's conductive ability. However, if the furnace runs for a while before it shuts off you could very well have an obstruction in the vent pipe or an obstructed indoor coil. If cleaning the flamerod doesn't remedy the problem, I strongly recommend a qualified serviceperson look at it! The furnace could well be turning itself off because something is getting too hot and coming back on when it cools. Good luck.
Sounds like it is tripping on it's high pressure switch. This could be caused by a dirty condenser coil, overcharge of refrigerant, or non condensables in the system ( air most likely). I would get a second opinion from a repuatable company, sounds like he's trying to rip you off.
Wow, about the only thing you have not looked at is the thermostat. Have you had the gas pressure tested? Next time it quits, Ohm out the gas valve to see if it has a bad coil. I have in the past put on the gas valve one of thoes light probes and had to watch it to see when power went out. I found out it was a bad circuit board. Hope this helps.
You probably have a shorted wire between the heater and the a/c. There are two wires that conncet the control power to the outdoor a/c from the heater they should be on terminal c & y in the heater. disconect those two wires and try it again if the fuse doesnt blow you have a short in the wire between the a/c & heater
Do you have a heat pump? If so this is normal. You are probably used to a gas furnace. There are heat pumps that do have a delay though. Look on the circuit board in the air handler. There may be a set of pins that say 0-30-60-90 yours may be at 0. Also some digital T-stats offer that function for delay off to get the extra heat or cold from the system. Find out what the model number of the air handler and call the Goodman supplier in your area to see if you have these options. If you have a gas furnace and it's not delaying the blower there is definately something wrong.
Hi and welcome to Fixya. I believe that the wind is affecting the draft. What I would recommend is to install a cap on the flue that is similar to a weather vane in that it rotates to block the wind from creating a downdraft in the flue. Some times depending on the direction and strength of the wind it will come up over the roof peak and then down the flue. A regular fixed cap may work too. You should be able to purchase one at your local hardware store. Please let me know if this was helpful. Good luck.
if your furnace is on 24 hours straight, before it heats up your home, then either your cold weather and indoor temps are extreme, or your unit is grossly undersized. if however your furnace cycles on and off when the temp is still way colder than you have set it you have either a bad stat that thinks its hotter than it is, or a bad furnace problem and even though the furnace is getting a signal from the stat to heat it is failing to do so. you'll have to watch and think this through to isolate the problem. if you set the furnace to max heat and it runs and heats the house reasonably quick then its probably going to be a bad stat. if you set it to max heat and it shuts off way before it gets to setpoint then the problem is in the furnace. be sure filters are clean, blower wheel is clean , returns are no obstructed, etc. if you by chance have an old mercury bulb stat they had a thing in them called a heat anticipator which basically worked like this. a dial with a little pointer determined how soon it would be till the furnaced reached the desired temp and anticipated how soon to shut off the burners in anticipation of the cool down period so you dont overshoot the desired temp. if these are bad or moved to different setting they can short cycle the furnace on of on off etc. or shut down the burner almost as soon as it lights. setting is usually at .4 to .6 on most, but really a digital stat is only way to go. by the way check to be sure you don't have a hot air supply grill blowing directly on the stat or it will shut off as soon as stat gets hot and rest of house will be cold. usual location is 5 feet off floor directly over the main return air grill or under it as the case may be. good luck