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FRIDGE AND FREEZER WON'T COOL. OVEN DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF FRIDGE IS TURNED ON AND LEFT OPEN TO WARM HOUSE SOMETIMES(HOUSE HEATER BROKEN TOO). COULD THE HOT AIR HAVE DONE SOMETHING TO FRIDGE?

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The oven is more likely just a coincidence. All frost-free refrigerator-freezers have a thing in the system called a Defrost Timer. The thing is a little clock of sorts that tracks accumulated running time. Every 8 hours of run time the thing cycles through a defrost cycle. The defrost cycle is necessitated by the humidity that forms ice crystals on the freezing coils, if the frost is not eradicated it can build up to the point where no air flows over the coils to chill the inside of the box. The Defrost timer in all boxes fails eventually from old age. When that happens, the coils frost over until they become pretty much just a solid block of ice. Most timers are located on the front of the machine, behind that removable grille under the door. The timer has a round hollow shaft through it, and can be turned with a screwdriver. If the compressor is running, give the shaft a slow twist until a click is heard. The compressor will stop. Give the fridge an hour to defrost the coils, and check it to see if it took off running. Sometimes the nudge will make the timer run for a while. If this is the case, the unit will chill, and buy you some time to get it fixed. If the timer does not run, you can repeat the process daily until you get a replacement timer. If the unit does not chill, there is some other problem either with the defrost heater coils, or the sealed system. If this seems to be the case, make sure the condenser coils under the unit are not obscured with accumulated dust/dirt and that they have airflow from the fan behind them. For heater or sealed system repairs, you should call a servicer.

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

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Warm fridge cold freezer


This usually happens when your Defrost (heater) is not working, Firstly Get your Defrost Timer Checked. If that is the problem then the timer is much easier to be replaced. Depending on the models the Timer prices differ from $10 to $115.
If this is not the issue then Inside the freezer is the Defrost Heater Placed, and you will figure out that this unit is having the problem due to which the channels to pass the Cool air into the Fridge is blocked and not keeping it cool. You will have to check if this Heater can be fixed or replaced. *Again this cost will Differ based on the models*

Mar 18, 2014 | Refrigerators

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I have the refrig where the freezer is on the bottom, the bottom is working fine but the top is not getting cool.


a common problem with bottom mount freezers is the door gets left open,open the freezer door and look at the ceiling,is there ice on it and is there also frozen water droplets on the packages,if so the door was left open,you can shut the fridge down or unplug it,remove the food from the freezer,get a hair dryer and blow the hot air onto the back inside wall of the freezer mostly blow it into the open slots in the back wall,it will melt the ice that's in the air ducts,you'll see water dripping down,when it stops you can start the fridge and stick your hand in the top middle of the fridge section to feel if cold air is blowing in,all that it does is there's a fan in the freezer,all it does is blow the cold air from the freezer into the fridge section,if the door was open the warm air gets in and mixes with the cold air and it freezes up the air ducts and blocking them.if this isn't the problem open the freezer door,you should hear the fan blowing,if not you could have a bad fan motor,also put your hand on the back inside wall of the freezer,if there's like frost or snow on the back wall you have a defrost problem,a bad defrost heater,defrost thermostat or timer or board depending what the model is,but most of the time the problem is behind the freezer inside wall,or depending on your model there could be a damper in the fridge section,if it's stuck closed then the cold air won't blow into the fridge section.so first open the freezer door,listen for the fan,if it's blowing,check for frozen water droplets and ice up on the ceiling near the light and on the food packages,if you see this the door was left open,if the fan isn't blowing most likely it could be bad,then check the back inside wall for frost or snow on it,if there's frost on the back wall you have a defrost problem,most likely it will be a bad defrost thermostat or heater,you'll need to check them with a maeter,hope this helps,next time send the model number so i can look up your machine.

Sep 04, 2011 | Maytag Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fridge is warm, was collecting water inside. Freezer is working fine. Increased temp but not responding. It is a bottom freezer model


send the model number off of the fridge,if the freezer is working fine then no air is being blown up to the fridge section,all it does is blow cold air from the freezer to the fridge section so either the door was left open and this is very common with a bottom mount freezer or the evap fan isn't blowing or on some models there's a damper inside the fridge section,the damper door opens and closes to let cold air in,when it reaches temp. the door closes,sometimes the door gets stuck in the closed position or the open position and the fridge freezes or gets warm depending on where the door is.first thing open the freezer door,do you hear the fan blowing,if not you could have a bad evap. fan motor,next look at the ceiling and on the packages,do you see frozen water droplets,if so the door was left open and the air ducts are froze up from the warm air getting in from the door being open and mixing with the cold air freezes up the air ducts,also stick your hand onto the back inside wall of the freezer,if there's like snow or frost on the inside back wall of the freezer you could have a defrost problem,bad defrost thermostat,heater,timer or board depending on the model or last a bad damper,when you open the fridge door there are air ducts usually up top and in the middle you should feel cold air blowing in,this is your problem the air isn't making it into the fridge section.if the door was left open,unplug the fridge,remove the food from the freezer and with a hair dryer heat up the back inside wall of the freezer and blow the hot air into the air vent holes in the back wall to melt out the air ducts,keep heating it up until you don't see any more water dripping,you can see the water dripping through the vent holes.so let me know what you find,send the model number and we can go from there.look up near the ceiling in the fridge section on the right hand wall and you should see a tag with the model and serial numbers,send the full model number so i can see what you have in your machine.

Jun 12, 2011 | Maytag Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a side by side refrigerator and both the fridge and freezer are cool on the bottom, but somewhat warm on the top. I cannot hear fans operating when doors are opened (don't know if I should), and...


There should be a fan running in the freezer. Hold in the door switch and it will not stop when you open the door. The ice buildup is probably a defrost problem.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.

If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model

Sep 13, 2010 | Kenmore 57029 Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Door was left open all night-air in unit is luke


sometimes it takes a day or two to cool everything in the fridge back down check it then

May 16, 2010 | Amana ATB2135HR Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Freezer is not working



DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Dec 18, 2009 | GE GSS25LGP Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

We have a Kenmore freezer on bottom/fridge on top model. Came home yesterday to find the freezer items thawed. The fridge was cool but not cold. We jacked up both dials, and while some sort of fan is...


Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Nov 23, 2009 | Kenmore 73502 / 73504 / 73509 Bottom...

2 Answers

Hotpoint ffa90 fridge freezer hi the fridge door was left open overnight but has been closed all day,the problem is that the fridge compartment is warm. The freezer seems ok


this is heat likley to be from the compressor,,,it may have burned it out as it was working its hart out trying to cool your house down all last night? never stood a chance did it?

Nov 19, 2009 | Hotpoint FFA90 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Fridge/Freezer - fine bottom half, warm top half


Sounds like the fan in the freezer is not working ( pt# WR60X190 ) .

Jul 30, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fridge/Freezer working sometimes. Starts and stops


Need you to check the compressor to see if too hot to touch. If so unplug and don't leave it plugged in until we find the problem. This could be start capacitor, start relay, overload or a bad condenser or evaporator fan motor. Like to know he model number to help you better, Let me know, Sea Breeze

Jul 21, 2009 | Refrigerators

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