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Re: my amp wont give me any power
All the p series amps were discontinued for similar problems, they have a newer model out now. they have very weak boards internally and failed faster when mounted to the sub enclosure or very close to it from subsonic vibration. i would guess the amp is toasted.
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Hey i have looked over many rockford manuals,(i own a 300.1 my buddy owns a 325.1) and for there mono(.1) amps there hooked together on the inside so channel A+ and B + are cencted on the inside the amp. So you ither hook one 2ohm sub to channel A or you can hook 1 4ohm subs to channel A and 1 4ohm sub to channel B. There 2ohm stable so any lower will eventualy burn the amp out.
peel the cover completely off the amp and give it some power- if the amp is blown there will be a tiny light lit up on the circiut board that quite simply says "SHORT"-If its blown then theres nothing you can do unless you are a badass of course- but if the amp is dear to you and you want to spend a little money on it to get it up and running again- go to rockfords website and get into the forums and ask the question-where do i get my fosgate fixed and it will pull up some mumbo jumbo but it tells you about a place called LANDIS TECHNICAL that bought up all the parts to their amps and is in the business of restoring the amplifiers to their factory specs and even sends you a new power certificate to go with your new and improved amp.hope that helps you-
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage drops below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
Check your speaker load ESPECILLY if you are bridging your speakers. Sounds like you may have a very low ohms load and it is frying your amps. Do this BEFORE you hook up another amp. If you are using dual voice coil speakers it is very easy to get the impedence (ohms) wrong in your hook up. If unbridged then a 4 ohm load per channel is good. If you are bridged, then an 8 ohm load is best. When you combine speakers, that is when most people get in trouble. Good luck.
check your sub woofer connection if you have multiple subs the could be wired in a parallel or with has to many ohms that my cause it to not hit right and cause the amp to get really hot and cut in and out