Question about Jenn-Air SCE30600 Slide-In Electric Kitchen Range

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Clock and oven control display

My display light is so dim that I can't see the time, temperature or the timer minutes.

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  • dak373 Jun 05, 2008

    Our oven panel reads nothing, but when you turn it on , it heats and it beeps to the desired temp. After awhile the panel will start reading when it gets hot and up to temp. What's up?

  • mcguan Jan 14, 2009

    I have a Radiant Range Model SCE30600 w/ a Convection Oven--except the range is electrical--not gas. My husband went to find a replacement for the electolytic capacitor in the hardware store. He was told that replacing the capacitor wouldn't work for an electric stove. He was told the solution would be quite expensive.

    Basically, the panel above the oven door doesn't work. When the oven door is opened, the light turns on. The cook top works just fine too even though I notice one of the surface control lights is starting to dim. It seems to me that the problem is the panel itself. Interestingly enough, if the stovetop is turned on for a while, it's possible to turn on the oven--that because the lights start to show!!

    So the question is, does replacing the capacitator resolve the problem with an electric stove?

    Thank you.


  • Anonymous Mar 23, 2014

    while trying to set oven timer on wall oven the time display numbers went off and do not respond to any settings . It is a blank screen with just lights saying what function is on and the temperature. dd

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This solution worked great for me. I can't believe it was only a samll little cap. Thanks a bunch for this.it saved me a bunch.
Its real easy to do if you're handy.
IMPORTANT Turn circuit breaker OFF first
Open oven door
From underneath control panel remove 4 white screws with philips screw driver
this holds white cover strip
remove 4 hex head screws which will loosen the panel.
remove panel and support it's weight as many wires are connected.
remove 2 small plugs on board - you may need a small screw driver to pry away the locking mechanisms on the socket
Remove riggon type flat cable by squeezing black tabs on eand and lift up.
The board can now be removed by unclipping 2 of the clips holding the board while lifting up.
Take board to Radio Shack and ask for a suitable replacement for the C3 cap which is 35 volts and 68uf (microfarads). Remove and replace by careful soldering.
If traces lift off oard use a wire to jumper trace
ensure the cap goes in the same polarity there is negative signs on one side.
You can parallel caps to add uf together.
Voltage should be not less than 35volt slightly higher is OK.

Posted on Nov 17, 2007

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  • Dan Dec 04, 2007

    Scootersid,



    Email me, I can probably help you out.

    Delrosecop@netzero.com

  • Tom Karelin Feb 12, 2011

    Works like a charm! Didn't find direct replacement and settled with 100uF that I found in Radio Shock.

  • lowerfredric Mar 09, 2011

    I am so happy to report that I saved $170 and it was very easy. One impotant note: Use a camera or something to record the position on the original capacitor, namely the negative/positive orientation! I put it in backwards, and POP! I desoldered the burnt one and put a new one in THE RIGHT WAY. My wife is SOOOO happy. Thanks. Radio Shack only had the 100uf/35v, which works great.

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I had the same problem with my Jenn-Aire Expressions in-wall oven. Cahill's solution worked great! I look like an electronic genius, thanks Cahill!
My display was unreadable and I replaced C3 capacitor with a 100uF 35V (high temperature - 105 C).
Cost $1.69 for the capacitor and 1/2 hour of my time. Got a free ticket out of the doghouse now.

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

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I had the same problem with my SCE30600C. I evaluated some of the components and found that one of the electolytic capacitors was not the value written on it. Capacitors can dry out over time, therefore the problem slowy gets worse and worse. I replaced C3 which was 68uF and 35V. The display is working great now. Good Luck

Posted on Jul 03, 2007

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I read the earlier post and tried it. C3 - 68Uf 35V 105C rated replace with a 100uf-35V unit but only had a 85C rating. Display came back on, but not totally bright. If C3 was determined the oscillator frequency, then putting in the larger cap slows down the oscillator. Couldn't find a 68uf unit in my junk box.

Also the circuit board is do bad on these unit, that the traces can come off is you use too much heat. I had to fix the traces so took about 1 hour total.

You guys saved me about $160 bucks... Thanks.

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

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Cahill's solution worked great for me! My display was almost unreadable and had become worse over time. I replaced C3 capacitor with a 100uF 35V (high temperature - 105 C).

While at it, I went ahead and replaced the other 3 electrolitic caps on the module ( 2# 470uF 35V & 1# 22uF 50V). I just figured these caps also might have or would soon dry out due to prolonged exposure to high temperature. It important to replace with high temperature rated capacitors.

In the first place, I think this is a design flaw and these guys should not have used electrolitic caps knowing these will exposed to high ambient temperature for prolonged period. They should probably have used tantalum capacitors.

Thanks a lot for the posting, I too saved about $150 by not replacing the entire clock module.

Suresh

Posted on Mar 13, 2008

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Moscow Dan,

Your fix worked perfectly....I could only find a 100uF 35 v but it works just fine......Saved $168 which was the price at the Whirlpool supply house.

Thanks !!

Don

Posted on Feb 12, 2008

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Cahill's solution worked for me too! My display was completely blank, but sometimes if I can blindly get the oven going, the heat from the oven would bring the display back to be dimly visible.

Based on the above solution, I took a crack at it. It was easy to remove the front panel and to remove the clock/display board. I desoldered the original C3 capacitor (68uF, 35V) and replaced it with the closest I could find (68uF, 63V) and the display is now back to normal.

Thank you! By fixing this instead of replacing the entire clock/display board, I saved $150 and kept the otherwise good board from ending up in a landfill.

Posted on Feb 03, 2008

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It would be nice if i could find someone to replace this cap as i am not that handy

Posted on Dec 01, 2007

This solution worked perfectly for me.  It was the C3 cap ~$2.  The closest I could find was a 100uF at 35v, seems to be working fine however.  I took out more screws than I needed to.  Just remove the 4 small screws under the knobs and the 4 1/4" nuts under the front lip of the faceplate.  Pull it down and away carefully.  The circuit board removes with 3 pull off connectors on the long one pull up the tabs on the end to free the connection to the buttons.  A few screws and pop out of the plastic holder.  De-solder with a low wattage iron and some resin paste, re solder the same way with the new cap.  Much thanks to Cahill for this solution.

Posted on Oct 25, 2007

  • jjstephens Nov 29, 2010

    I have the same problem, but am unable to find a 68 microfarad 35 volt capacitor. Where can I get one of these? Please provide phone number or web site.

    Thanks,

    Joe in Ohio

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My oven stopped working I thought might be the clock display, i thought it was some sort of control panel for the oven. apparently i's tnot. I cant afford to have a service man come and look at it . Does anyone have any other ideas as to what eles it might be.

Posted on Jun 14, 2008

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Are there pics of this solution? I would like to get this done the least costly way.

Thanks

Posted on Nov 08, 2007

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I have the same problem. The only thing I can think of is to replace the display...$148.

Posted on Apr 17, 2007

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