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Can't get cap battery cover off to replace the batteries

I have slid back the battery cover so I can replace the batteries and I get it about 1/3 of the way open exposing about 3/4 of the first set of two batteries only to have the battery cover stop. It is most likely catching on the remaining two batteries that it hasn't passed over yet. I haven't looked insided of it mainly again because I can't get the battery cover off, but I'm guessing there is too much upward pressure on the batteries and they are in the way of the battery cover coming off.

Any solutions?

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How to replace the remote battery


There is usually a nitch along the rim of the remote. Use a small flathead screwdriver to gentally pry open the case. If there is no nitch on the rim then try slidding one of the top covers with just slight pressure. Vuala can now replace the battery.

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Skil Driver 2336 - how to replace the battery 18650 3.6V



I owned my Skil 2336 driver for a year or two and it appeared to be dead; no power, no charge light. The red LED would come on when you pulled the trigger. I figured it was the battery, but could be the charger. New driver at Sears is $30. I found the battery on Ebay for $8 delivered (actually, the price was for two batteries). OK, let's blow $8 and see what happens. It was an easy fix.

You'll need a small, flat blade screw driver and a solder gun (with flux and solder, of course). The screws look like a small, special Torx drive, but the flat end screwdriver will work fine. Use the screwdriver to remove the four screws, and wiggle the "Skil" cover off (Maybe the other cover comes off just as easy... whatever!). It should look like this:
9c1b9b8.jpg
The battery is exposed. I checked it with a (cheap) volt meter and it reads about 5V DC. Strange, the new battery reads 5V. And by the way, the charger reads 14V DC. Just for the record, I could not get any voltage reading off the two charging connectors at the bottom of the handle, with either the good or bad battery.

Anyway, the battery has TABS. So it's a lot easier to solder in the new battery if you get a battery with tabs. The holes in the tabs are nice, too. The new battery I got was identified as GTL 18650 3.7V 2800mAh and don't forget "tabs".

The Pink wire is connected to the Positive (+) side. The Blue wire is connected to the Negative (-) side. I marked the battery as shown in the next picture:
193905c.jpg
The tabs on my new battery were longer than the original, so after I soldered the new battery in, I folded the tabs up on each end.
dce5906.jpg
(In hind sight, the new tabs were covered with a black cover. I could have slid the cover off, snipped off the end and slid it back on before soldering.)
Before you put it together, you can try it out. My new battery came with a charge on it. There are two switches; one for the drive motor, and the other for the LED flashlight:
d1d26af.jpg
Check for any loose parts laying around and put the cover back on. It can be a little tricky, but it goes back on. Tighten the screws, and put on the charger.... Green light!
4ffc1e0.jpg Speaking of "Green", please safely recycle your battery, and screw"drive" safely.

on Jul 14, 2010 | Skil 2336 02 3.6V 120V Mini Drill/Driver...

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carefully seperate them and disconnect the wires off the rear cover thats attached to the board...its pretty easy...just dont be in a hurry

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ashe 1977

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Their batteries are guaranteed for a year and they are 1 of the cheapest stores for batteries you will find on the net or off the net.

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