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Re: radiant heating elements
Check the element with an OHM meter.
This is not rocket science and an OHM meter can be used for many things. Any good appliance parts place, even Wal-Mart will have a meter which can be set to test AC/DC, OHM's etc. Set the meter on OHM setting and touch the two leads on the meter together, you will see the meter arm move. This is simply a test for continuity. Now take the element out of the Range, touch one lead to one end of the element and the other lead to the other end. If you do not get any reading then there is a break inside the element and must be replaced. If you get any reading at all then the element is good and the eye switch must be replaced.
There are some parts which require knowing how many OHM's but in this case you just need to check for a break inside the element (continuity).
You can check an extension cord this way or set it on the volts setting and check batteries. all kinds of fun.
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Radiant heating elements are often dual elements and if your range uses these dual elements then yes, this is quite possible. However, other faults could cause a healthy element to not work properly.
Contacts in the control switch could be burned out or seized,
A wiring connector could be loose or oxidised
The internal wiring may have developed a fault.
The thermostat (if thermostatically controlled) may have failed
Multiple, consequential or other fault conditions may exist.
A DIY 'trial and error' fix may work first time, but could end up being more expensive (and risky) than getting a professional in with the knowledge, experience and test gear to diagnose the source and extent of the fault before ordering spare parts.
I hope this helps.
1. Test for power to determine that the unit is receiving the correct voltages. 2. If the power voltages are correct and you have standard surface burner elements: 1. Test Surface Burner. 2. Test the Receptacle. 3. Test the Burner Switch. 3. If the power voltages are correct and you have solid-disc elements: 1. Test the solid-disc element. 2. Test the Burner Switch. 4. If the power voltages are correct and you have radiant heating elements: 1. Test the radiant heating element. 2. Test the Burner Switch.
1. Make sure the controls are set properly that the oven selector switch is set correctly and that the temperature switch is set to the desired temperature. Where applicable, make sure the oven timer is set to manual.
2. Make sure the oven door is slightly ajar as per your owner's manual.
3. If nothing else on the Range, Oven or Cooktop is working then: 1. Check the circuit breaker or fuse 2. Test for power
4. Test the broiler element.
5. Check the oven thermostat.
6. Check selector switch.
7. Check oven cycling relay.
REMEMBER YOU ARE WORKING WITH 220 VOLTS - USE EXTREME CAUTION .
Please if no experience, please contact a skillful personnel for assistance.
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Sounds like you need an bake element ignitor if the bake doesn't work but if the broil also doesn't work, it could be the electronic clock/timer control. the part number for the bake ignitor is 8054129 .Best off to call a reliable service company such as Sears.
Oven functions Oven light. Upper and lower heating elements. (Conventional cooking). Upper and lower heating elements with fan. (Fan assisted cooking). Lower heating element with fan. Inner grill heating element. (Radiant grill). Full grill heating element with fan. (Fan grill) Rear circular heating element with fan. (Fan forced cooking). http://www.sampfordixl.com.au/lagermania/specs/f969d5x.pdf
Usually, when an oven won't heat, it's because the bake element is burned out. The bake element is the black, pencil- thick tube at the bottom of the oven. When the oven heats, the element glows red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.
I suspect a heating element in the oven has burned out. Some ovens have 2 heating elements, one on the bottom for baking and one on the top for broiling. If this is the case, you can try setting the oven on broil and see if the top element gets hot. Usually the bottom element fails first because food gets dripped on it. In most cases you can unplug the old heating element by just pulling on it and plug the new one just as easily. You can check the resistance of the heating element with an ohm meter. If it's burned out the resistance will be very high, probably greater than a mega ohm. In some cases you will need to take the back off the oven to replace the heating element. Just make sure the oven is unplugged and cool when you start working on it.
I was wrong (I think). the baking element probably was burnt out as the repairman said. He replaced it and I thought selfclean still wasn't working. In fact, I think I just had to give the self-clean function more time. Also, I was judging by smell. We have become used to a bad odor during self clean which was missing when it was broken and still missing after the repair. Bottom line, the oven was clean after the baking element was replaced, sans smell.
If element stays on even with oven turned off you probably have a bad main board. A relay on board is probably stuck on. If it stays on, but at a reduced heat...not getting red hot, it may be from a shorted wire causing 110 volts to get to element.