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Possible toilet leak or doesn't stop running...

The plastic tube (bowl refill tube?) that sends water into the vertical standpipe (overflow tube?) keeps running and the floater (mounted in the corner of the tank) almost sounds like it is hissing. The metal tube that leads from the wall pipe to the bottom of the tank has a plastic screw fitting and turning it one way or the other and water leaks from the bottom of the tank. Also, the flush handle doesn't work either. The rod attached to it and the flapper via chain hangs all the way down to the bottom of the tank. Think that covers it. Appreciate your help. By the way, I am not very mechanically inclined but can understand and follow instructions pretty well.

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  • bench1023 Dec 18, 2008

    Richie, Thanks for chipping in with the advice. Went to the local hardware store and purchased a new valve and flapper as well as a new handle assembly. The whole thing took less than an hour and ...viola! Leak fixed! Much easier than I thought. I did such a good job that my wife is looking around the house for other things for me to fix! Gee, thanks!!

  • Beth Mitchell
    Beth Mitchell Apr 19, 2009

    My well pump died and had to be replaced. AS a result the water when turned on initially was very gritty. Now my toto toilet won't stop running when flushed. The manual syas that is caused by dirt in the fill valve seal and the fix is to open the fill valve cap and clean the fill valve seal. Unfortunatley, I don't see any part that comes off and could be the fill valve cap. What am I looking for?

    mitch21131@gmail.com

  • Anonymous Mar 20, 2014

    Absolutely NO WATER comes back into the tank after flushing. NONE. The float moves up and down the tubes; the seal is fine on the flapper; the skinny tube that moves water from the IN Tube into the fill tube is unobstructed... what if I dump vinegar and baking soda around the in-valve to remove any deposits?

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This sounds like the ballvalve needs replacing & the hissing is the sound of water as the valve is not shutting off properly.
The valve at the bottom of the tank is possibly just a half turn valve so try that & see if it stops the water.
The water leaking could be thatthe water level is too high & leaking around the handle assembly & running down, so it kinda looks as though its leaking below?
The handle assembly may of come adrift so thats whay the handle may look loose ?

Solution sounds quite straight forward, a new ballvalve assembly needs to be fitted & the handle assembly sorting.
The leak will be rectified when you replace the old ballvalve, as you will need to turn off the water to the unit to remove the ballvalve, whilst the water is off a service valve should be fitted so as any future probs or servicing needs doing then it can be isolated without the need for turning the whole house off?

This work should be carried out by a registered plumber & is as i said a straight forward job.Price approx £65.00 subject to a survey by the plumber.

I hope this has helped

kindly

Richie

Posted on Dec 17, 2008

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1 Answer

When toilet is flushed and refills water leaks into the cistern.


Are you saying that water is running into the toilet bowl? If so, check the rubber flapper at the bottom, and the valve (tube standing up).

Mar 29, 2016 | Caroma Home

Tip

How to adjust a toilet


  • Your toilet tank may simply need a good "tune-up." Here are some adjustments you can make.

  • Refill valve. If your tank has a conventional ballcock refill valve, the water level is adjusted by bending the float arm. The level should be high enough for complete flushes, but the water should not be to the top of the overflow pipe. Your tank should have a colored or molded water level mark. It should never be set so low that the bowl does not refill with trap sealing water. The rule of thumb is to set the water level about 3/4" below the top of the overflow pipe.

  • If the float rubs on other parts, simply adjust the float arm sideways. If the float lacks buoyancy, unscrew then shake it to determine if it is waterlogged. A waterlogged float should be replaced. The float arm can also be replaced, if needed.

  • In tanks using modern plastic refill valves, the tank water level is adjusted in other ways. If your tank uses a hand nut, turn the nut clockwise to raise, or counterclockwise to lower, the water level. Or, your tank may have a sliding pinch clamp on an adjustment rod.

  • Flush valve. Replacements for a flush ball and its actuating mechanism are available, but it may be possible to stop a leak with minor adjustments. Check the following mechanisms before purchasing replacements.

  • See that the guide arm is centered directly over the seat. The guide arm should drop the flush ball directly into its seat. If the flush ball is not seating properly, make the adjustment shown.

  • The guide arm should allow the flush ball to rise enough for a complete flush. If not, raise the arm. Be careful that it isn't too high–then it will prevent the ball from closing completely.

  • Check that the upper lift wire pulls the flush ball high enough. To adjust it, simply bend the wire for a higher or lower lift.

  • The lifting hardware on a flapper-type flush valve should raise the rubber flapper to start a flush, but should not hold the flapper up off its seat. If this is occurring, the hardware is adjusted too short. Some types allow you to slide the flapper itself up or down on the refill tube to ensure that the flapper meets the valve seat squarely. The lifting hardware and flapper height adjustments are the first things to check when flapper problems arise.

  • Refill tube. If the bowl-refill tube is out of place, water is routed directly into the tank, rather than replenishing water in the bowl. When this is the case, you will likely hear splashing sounds during tank refill. The refill tube should aim directly into the overflow pipe but should not reach below water level. If the tube extends too low, it will siphon tank water silently away. Fix it by repositioning as shown.

  • Defective refill tubes on some valves can be replaced with new plastic ones. Simply place one end of the plastic tube over the serrated plastic lug on the body of the valve, and place the plastic holder in the top of the overflow pipe.
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    Loosing water from insulated crane toilet tank


    The fill tube may have a crack in it. I am referring to the plastic tube where the water runs in from a small rubber tube connected to the fill valve to refill the bowl after you flush it also serves as an overflow tube in case the water level gets too high. a crack will allow water from the tank to run into the bowl bypassing the flapper. checks this and replace if necessary. hope this helps.
    Bob

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    My sister has a two year old Jacuzzi toilet that worked fine until a few months ago. Then it started to take 10 minutes to shut off after each flush. I lifted the tank cover and immediately saw the problem; at least 90% of the refill water was going into the refill pipe instead of the tank. Upon examination I discovered that the plastic part that holds the flexible refill tube to the vertical refill pipe was broken. This part not only holds the refill tube in place, it also has a small orifice at the end to restrict the flow into the pipe. The part was broken in such a way as to let nearly all the water go into the refill pipe instead of the tank, hence it would run for 10 minutes after the toilet bowl was full and waste all that water. I found a small coarse thread stainless steel screw that fit into the plastic attachment piece to help plug the orifice and cut down the amount of water going to the refill pipe. Now the toilet flushes and refills in less than 2 minutes. I'm in the process of trying to find a replacement for that part but so far no luck.

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    The water in the tank continues to leak out and the tank has to continue to refill. I have replaced the flapper, I have taken the tank off the toilet and check gasket alignment. The tank does not leak...


    There are only a coulple of places that the toilet could leak or, overflow and give you this problem. When you replaced the flapper valve, did it have an extra piece of rugger on it? Universal flappers have a round piece on them that are designed to fit over the overflow tube. If you flapper had this piece and you don't have need for it, you need to cut that out, if the flapper "hooks" to the overflow assembly. Leaving that piec on can contort the shape of the flapper and make it so it won't seal. If you are noticing constant movement(slight swirl) in the bowl, make sure the back tank is not constantly overflowing into overflow tube. If this is the case, your water level is too high. You will either need to adjust the water level and/or replace the fill valve. If you can hear the toilet running or leaking, push down on the flapper, if it stops, you have a problem with the flapper and/or the chain adjustment. When you install the flapper, you have ton make sure the chain is long enough to let the flapper fall and seal but, not so long that it can tangle or get between the the flapper and it's seal below it.

    Jun 19, 2011 | Jacuzzi Home

    1 Answer

    Replaced the seals because it was running. Water is still leaking from the tank somewhere so it keeps refilling....it's constantly leaking and refilling. how can I repair this.


    You say you have replaced seals. I assume that you are refering to the flaper valve that controls dumping water from tank to bowl to flush. To make sure you have a good seal put a dozen or so drops of food coloring directly into tank when it's full and observe for a hour or so to see if water in bowl is discoloring. If it is then you are still leaking there. You can shut off water supply off or flush toilet and manually hold flush valve closed. Check to see if there are any rough spots on flapper seal that could stop flapper from sealing good. If you find rough spot then make sure the surface is dry and sand lightly with medium grit sandpaper.120 grit or finer.
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    Jan 10, 2011 | American Standard Home

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