The plastic tube (bowl refill tube?) that sends water into the vertical standpipe (overflow tube?) keeps running and the floater (mounted in the corner of the tank) almost sounds like it is hissing. The metal tube that leads from the wall pipe to the bottom of the tank has a plastic screw fitting and turning it one way or the other and water leaks from the bottom of the tank. Also, the flush handle doesn't work either. The rod attached to it and the flapper via chain hangs all the way down to the bottom of the tank. Think that covers it. Appreciate your help. By the way, I am not very mechanically inclined but can understand and follow instructions pretty well.
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Re: Possible toilet leak or doesn't stop running...
This sounds like the ballvalve needs replacing & the hissing is the sound of water as the valve is not shutting off properly.
The valve at the bottom of the tank is possibly just a half turn valve so try that & see if it stops the water.
The water leaking could be thatthe water level is too high & leaking around the handle assembly & running down, so it kinda looks as though its leaking below?
The handle assembly may of come adrift so thats whay the handle may look loose ?
Solution sounds quite straight forward, a new ballvalve assembly needs to be fitted & the handle assembly sorting.
The leak will be rectified when you replace the old ballvalve, as you will need to turn off the water to the unit to remove the ballvalve, whilst the water is off a service valve should be fitted so as any future probs or servicing needs doing then it can be isolated without the need for turning the whole house off?
This work should be carried out by a registered plumber & is as i said a straight forward job.Price approx £65.00 subject to a survey by the plumber.
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The fill tube may have a crack in it. I am referring to the plastic tube where the water runs in from a small rubber tube connected to the fill valve to refill the bowl after you flush it also serves as an overflow tube in case the water level gets too high. a crack will allow water from the tank to run into the bowl bypassing the flapper. checks this and replace if necessary. hope this helps.
My sister has a two year old Jacuzzi toilet that worked fine until a few months ago. Then it started to take 10 minutes to shut off after each flush. I lifted the tank cover and immediately saw the problem; at least 90% of the refill water was going into the refill pipe instead of the tank. Upon examination I discovered that the plastic part that holds the flexible refill tube to the vertical refill pipe was broken. This part not only holds the refill tube in place, it also has a small orifice at the end to restrict the flow into the pipe. The part was broken in such a way as to let nearly all the water go into the refill pipe instead of the tank, hence it would run for 10 minutes after the toilet bowl was full and waste all that water. I found a small coarse thread stainless steel screw that fit into the plastic attachment piece to help plug the orifice and cut down the amount of water going to the refill pipe. Now the toilet flushes and refills in less than 2 minutes. I'm in the process of trying to find a replacement for that part but so far no luck.
There are only a coulple of places that the toilet could leak or, overflow and give you this problem. When you replaced the flapper valve, did it have an extra piece of rugger on it? Universal flappers have a round piece on them that are designed to fit over the overflow tube. If you flapper had this piece and you don't have need for it, you need to cut that out, if the flapper "hooks" to the overflow assembly. Leaving that piec on can contort the shape of the flapper and make it so it won't seal. If you are noticing constant movement(slight swirl) in the bowl, make sure the back tank is not constantly overflowing into overflow tube. If this is the case, your water level is too high. You will either need to adjust the water level and/or replace the fill valve. If you can hear the toilet running or leaking, push down on the flapper, if it stops, you have a problem with the flapper and/or the chain adjustment. When you install the flapper, you have ton make sure the chain is long enough to let the flapper fall and seal but, not so long that it can tangle or get between the the flapper and it's seal below it.
You say you have replaced seals. I assume that you are refering to the flaper valve that controls dumping water from tank to bowl to flush. To make sure you have a good seal put a dozen or so drops of food coloring directly into tank when it's full and observe for a hour or so to see if water in bowl is discoloring. If it is then you are still leaking there. You can shut off water supply off or flush toilet and manually hold flush valve closed. Check to see if there are any rough spots on flapper seal that could stop flapper from sealing good. If you find rough spot then make sure the surface is dry and sand lightly with medium grit sandpaper.120 grit or finer.
One other thing to check is if your toilet has the plastic or rubber tube that goes from the flush valve into the overflow. Make sure that this tube does not set below water level in tank when it is full as this can create a suction or syphon,
Hope this helps you. Thanks
The water level in the bowl is determined by the built in trap in the back of the bowl. Water is allowed to enter the toilet and it then "over flows" the p trap in the back when flushed. Once it's flowing, it syphons the water out of the bowl. While the tank is re-filling, a small portion of water should be running down the overflow from the small hose clamped onto the overflow This rinses the inside of the bowl, as well as helps-refill the bowl. Be sure that hose is directed inside the overflow tube. To see what the max water level in the bowl can be, add some water from a cup or glass. Once it's full you can keep adding and it won't get any higher. This will be the max level you can expect.
Does this tank have the plastic bucket around the flapper inside the tank. If so this is a water saver toilet. A few tricks to increase the water. I have had to remove the bucket by cutting it maybe half into to increase the gpm.
This will increase it to more than 1.6 gpm's. It can be cut down just be careful in doing it if this is the problem.
Next make surethe fill valve has line running and attached to overflow tube. This will fill the bowl with the needed water for it and the tank.
Next make sure the water is set to the mark either on the tank or the overflow tube. If no mark to within 5/8" to top of overflow tube .
Unless the water is running out onto the floor, the ONLY place it can go is into the toilet bowl. The amount of water in the bowl (known as the "water spot" - which is a reference to the size of the surface of the water) can be no greater than what the geometry of the bowl and trap will allow. Unless the trap is clogged, the height of the water spot is determined by the trap. Some newer toilets have a pretty small water spot. To confirm the size of your water spot, very slowly pour water into the bowl from a bucket.
There should be a small plastic tube (about 1/4 inch in diameter) running from the fill valve (at the left side of the tank) to the overflow tube (about 1 inch in diamter) located near the centr of the tank. The small plastic tube is supposed to have water flowing when the tank is refilling. This is the water than helps refill the bowl. The little plastic tube some times gets knocked off from its position at the top of the overfill tube.