- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The Vivitar 285 HV is specified to have a trigger voltage of 12V. The Nikon DSLRs are specified to be safe up to 12V. This puts the combination right at the fuzzy point. It should be safe, but if the flash goes a little high while the camera goes a little low, you might run into trouble.
TR 2000 gives two output ^ volt and 330 volts. Whereas 285 HV uses 6 volt and 110 volt AC http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=details_accessories&A=kitInfo&Q=&sku=638035&is=REG I am running my 285HV with external 6volt battery pack.sort of this type. http://cgi.ebay.com/6V-1-3AH-SLA-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Rechargeable-Battery_W0QQitemZ390166216699QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5ad7b7fffb I added 2 standard diodes in series (IN4001 type) and placed inside the dummy battery pack which reduces some voltage and safeguards against wrong polarity. more details? email@example.com
You don't need a Manual. In 285 HV there is only one Power on/off switch. If that switch is on and batteries are new Alkaline (like duracell-no chepo )or fully charged and working rechargebles,and yet the ready light do not come the flash has defect inside.For sure.
Personally, I would not try it. While the Canon has a protection system built into the camera, the trigger voltage on the Vivitar is pretty high. I have had good results using a 283 on a slave shoe, you will have to stop down more with the extra light