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Re: Flame will cut off in 30 second
Check the loose blower wheel and lint in the filter housing phenom associated with these dryers. The operator coils will get hot and quit and cool down after several hours and work again making it imposible to pinpoint a solution. Replace those coils. $20 bucks.
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My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.
1.) We know it is not the igniter because you are getting flame.
2.) We know it is not your main gas valve because your other burners are working.
3.) What we do know is that you are not getting enough gas flow to maintain flame.
Each burner has a gas flow adjustment. If the burner was working fine before, then the adjustment valve may be bad (Plugged up from corrosion). Or, the gas tube from the gas adjustment is plugged up from corrosion.
Sorry, I can only advise you in general terms. You did not provide a model number so I can see exactly what you have. Not all gas stoves are the same.
Being as how you changed the gas valve, make sure the arrow on the bottom of the gas valve is pointed towards the burner. Check for 24 volts at the common and main valve terminals on the gas valve when the thermostat is calling for heat...terminals MV and C. You will only have 24v there if the flame sensor senses flame... either pilot flame or main gas. You coud have 24v there without gas flowing or flame if is is a thermocouple standing pilot system and the gas valve is not in the 'on' position. But standing pilot systems usually do not have flame sensors.
With a flame sensor in the system, you have to have either spark ignition or glow coil ignition. If its spark ignition check for 24 volts at the pilot valve and common terminals on the gas valve WHILE the ignitor is sparking. That would be PV and C. The ignitor should spark and 24v should be on PV and C for 30 seconds to a full minute without ignition if it is a spark-to-pilot system.
If you have a glow coil, it will energize and burn bright orange for a minimum of 30 seconds BEFORE the main valve is energized. Then MV and C is only receiving 24v for approximately 5 to 6 seconds. This gives the flame sensor the time to prove the flame....if it does not prove flame, the system shuts down.
It probably has a flame failure device..
This is to cut off the gas if the flame goes out..
When you light the burner, the flame heats a sensor which keeps the gas on, if this is faulty, the gas will go out.
On a gas dryer the heat normally only comes on for 30 seconds or until the drum temp reaches 160f at which time the flame is shut down by the cycling thermostat. The drum temp then starts to drop. When the drum temp reaches 105f then another blast of heat is issued for 30 more seconds.That is how they work. Put it all back together and trow a load in there.
The most likely solution is that the flame sensor is dirty. if it is an older model it will have a standing pilot.( a small flame that is on all the time) if newer it should have a hot surface ignition. this will make a difference. A standing pilot has a thermocouple that is the flame sensor as well if that is prob replace it they are inexpensive. If it has hot surface ignition there will be a small small peice of metal that looks like a small pen about 3" long or shorter. After a period of time they get a carbon build up. You can use a very fine sandpaper to clean.but be careful not to scratch it up that will lower the performance and it will take longer to sense the flame.Try to clean with a dollar bill first (use like sandpaper) if that doesn't work then use the sandpaper 1000 grit if you can find it or an emmory board. Hope this helps;)
I dont know the model number of your unit but if it has flame rod in the burner it may be abd. This a small rod that sticks into the flame. When it is lit the flame sends a signal thru the rod that the flame is on. Try to sand paper and clean the flame rod. If not replace pick one up on line or at a AC supply house make sure you have make and Model number Rus
you have a thermo couple that is in or near the flame sounds like you have a faulty one. it detects the flame and keeps the gas flowing. if it does not then it cuts the gas supply. It is done for safety
sounds like its not proofing flame. it has a sensor usually like a needle sticks out into the flame that tells the gas valve the flame lit and is burning so its ok to keep sending gas, if its fails to proof flame then burner shuts down, then it tries to relight 3 times then locks out on fail safe. the blower will sometimes run continually once that occurs to highlight a failed condition. every time you reset it will try again 3 times then shut down. lp gas is very dangerous, even i do not work on it as the gas acts like gasoline and lays around. not like natural gas that disperses well. if you see the flame sensor try gently cleaning it with a little emory cloth. also a loose ground can cause this. check tio be sure any green wires are snug , they actually flow volts to ground through the flame on some to proof, thats why no ground no flame. if that fails then the board is most likely problem. change wire for wire , or get generic replacemant and follow directions exactly. good luck.some ignitors act as a flamre proofer as soon as they are done igniting! rarely do they fail to perform both funtions.