Question about Scheu (K50-FA) Heater

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WILL NOT RUN UNTIL YOU TAKE TOP OFF THE FUEL WILL PUMP AND IGNITOR WORKS. PUT TOP BACK ON ANR TIGHTEN SCREWS AND IT WILL STOP PUMPING FUEL AND IGNITER STOPS TOO

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Offhand, I suspect an exposed wire that touches the top cover when placed back on or the igniter is being grounded with the cover on. Pls inspect for any loose/misplaced wires or missing insulator/pad.

Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy Holidays.

Posted on Dec 17, 2008

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Some thing related to the pumping mechanism that is the washers may not be in the correct position or something else.try to check it.thank you

Posted on Dec 17, 2008

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It can be some air and fuel pressure issues.
FILTERS: Dirty air or oil filters will cause an imbalance
in the air-fuel mixture. The best indication that this
condition exists is an increase in odors or difficulty
getting your heater to ignite. This heater should never be
operated without the filters in place. If required clean
filters as described under "500 HR" and "Annual Schedules".
http://www.fncuthbert.com/pdffiles/spck50man.pdf
Good Luck

Posted on Dec 17, 2008

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1 Answer

I have a reddy heater 40,000 btu it works with the top off and then when I put the top back on the fan hits it? what do I do


You will need to adjust your pressure.
Heaters with Hot Surface Ignitor technology are extremely critical to pump pressure. If the pressure is off by 1/2 psi, the heater may run for 5 seconds, then shut down because of IGNITION FAILURE. The only way to correct this problem is to set the pump pressure to DESA's recommended pressure specification.
  1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
  2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
  3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m29609t.jpgM29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
or
If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m16545t.jpgM16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle.
5. Replace plug. Test for leak.
6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed.
7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

Feb 28, 2015 | Reddy Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

It is full of kerosene however when I plug it in to start, it will not turn on. It makes the effort for about two or three seconds then turns off


The safety is turning it off because it is not lighting. You did not mention if it was actually trying to light, or if it was just the motor running. If it is not lighting, take the top cover off and watch the ignitor. Depending on the type of ignitor, it will either glow or spark when you plug the heater in. This should happen before the fan starts running. Once the fan starts, you should be able to see a mist of fuel coming out of the nozzle. If there is no fuel spray you may have an air pump problem, which is on the back of the motor, or the fuel screen in the tank may be plugged.
1. Check for ignition source
2. Blower motor should start, if you have ignition
3. Fuel should spray out of nozzle, if not check filter and check for air flow out of the pump.
4. If you do not have any air flow, or not enough air flow check the pump. Pressure out is critical.
5. If pressure is too low check for leaks around the pump. Spray soapy water on the back side of the motor/pump housing. The plastic pump cover is bad about cracking, and the cracks are very hard to see. The plastic cover could also be loose on the pump.
6. While on this end of the pump; the filters need to be clean, as they will affect the pump pressure and upset the whole apple cart.

Jan 18, 2011 | Reddy Heater-30-55,000 BTU Variable

1 Answer

I HAVE A 115,000 btu Keroscene heater. It just stopped running.


Take the top cover off of the unit. Plug it in and look inside the burner can to see if the ignitor is glowing. If not you probably need an ignitor. You can remove it to check the heating element to see if it is intact, but be very careful, it is more fragile than glass. If it is intact, you may have a control board issue. The ignitor should glow before the fan starts. Be careful to stay away from the fan blades while doing this. If the ignitor glows, and the motor starts, you should then be able to see fuel spraying out of the spray nozzle. You may need a flash light. If the fuel does not spray out of the nozzle in the correct amount, the unit will shut down. There is a photo cell that detects ignition. If the fuel pattern does not look even, you could have low air pressure out of the pump, a dirty fuel nozzle, or a plugged fuel screen inside of the tank. The air pressure comes from a pump on the back side of the blower motor. Insure that the filter are clean on the pump; there are three of them, and the plastic end cap needs to come off to access them. If they are dirty, they need to be replaced. The air pressure off of this pump is very critical to proper fuel delivery. The rated output pressure of the pump is on the heater data plate. You will need a low pressure air gage to check this pressure. Another source of low air pressure is the plastic end cover over the filters. They tend to crack with age. Spray soapy water on the end cap while the blower is running to look for leaks.

Jan 18, 2011 | Reddy Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

This heater will run for about 5 minutes or so and then the fan stops.if you use a screw driver and turn the fan really quick it will start working again.


Unfortunately it sounds as if you are loosing the fan motor, or it could possibly be in the fuel pump as it is run from the same motor.You could try cleaning out the fuel pump by taking it apart and cleaning it then make sure you pay attention to detail putting it together. It could be dirt in the pump but I lean more towards fan motor.

Dec 13, 2010 | Reddy Heater-30-55,000 BTU Variable

2 Answers

Hi i have a master space heater model 150 paraffin, runs ok with the cover off but when i put the cover back on it stops. The flame out button clicks to shut the heater down. any info please


These units have a air pump on the back of the fan motor. Has anyone messed with the settings? The pump usually runs off of 5 to 6 lbs. of pump pressure. This is what controls the fuel flow that is sprayed out of the fuel injector. This unit also should have a photo eye for flame out control. It is positioned near the ignitor looking though a hole in the combustion chamber. Make sure it is clean and looking in the hole. Make sure your ignitor is working also.

Dec 01, 2010 | All-Pro Kerosene Garage Shop Heaters - All...

1 Answer

I have a miller furnace in my shop, runs on K1, recently I ran it out of K1,after putting 100 gallons in the tank, I cannot bleed the system, furnace will start, nothing comes out of the bleeder valve.HELP


Check the filter on the tank to make sure it is not clogged. Then iff it still will not bleed take the screw out od the top of the pump usually a 1/2 inch or 9/16 and fill the pump with kerosene and then put the screw pack inand try to bleed. sometimes priming the pump will get the pump running again because it air locks the when it is run out of fuel.

Jan 15, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

NO FUEL AT NOZZLE


FOUND THAT THE FUEL HOSE AND AIR PUMP HOSE HAD BEEN REVERSED AT THE NOZZLE-PUMP HOSE NEEDS TO BE CLOSEST TO THE BLOWER HOUSING-I USED A VAC GAUGE TO TEST THE FUEL LINE-WHILE THE AIR PUMP WAS RUNNING-NO VAC-REVERSED LINES AND STARTED UNIT-ADJUSTED AIR PRESSURE-ALL IS WELL

Jan 27, 2009 | Reddy Heater-170,000 BTU Kerosene Deluxe

5 Answers

MPI kerosene Monitor Heater


need to bleed air out of filter at oil tank crack open the screw on top it will bleed out air wait until oil starts to run out then tighten back and bleed at heater on right side lever inside hole push and let off slow 4-5 times and restart

Nov 02, 2008 | Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater: Laser...

2 Answers

Dayton 3e219e


This is normal operation for this heater IF it does Not light. This has a photo 'eye' that looks for the flame and if it does not see the flame it will shut the unit down. It could be one of a few things. First.....Does the ignitor get hot and 'glow' cherry red? If not, either the ignitor is bad or the ignition board may be bad. You can check this by removing the top and watch it (the ignitor)while you plug it in, just be careful for the fan as it should start. If the ignitor glows then it is not the ignitor or the board. At this point you can make a sure bet it is in the air pump circuit. There are several filters in this unit. Very carefully take the four screws out of the back to remove the cover( it is a rectangle piece about 3 inches by five inches by 1.5 inches...about as this is off the top of my head) These are very fragile so be VERY carefull. There are three filters in this. One is removeable from the outside before anythis is disassembled. It is like a sponge and must be cleaned on a regular basis. Inside there is a cork like gasket TAKE CARE NOT TO BREAK IT. If you kreak it you must replace it. They do not work very well spliced together. Now that you are inside check the other two filters. One is very small like the size of a pencil eraser or smaller. Note where it came from so you can replace it afler you clean it. The other one is quite larger and is like a piece of filter paper. When it is new it is white. They clog up with the carbon from the air pump. You can carefully try and clean it but your best bet is to just replace it. Next clean and inspect the cover. They do crack on occasion and when they do it is LIGHTS OUT for the heater. Look Very close as it may be just a hairline crack, but that is all it takes to stop this from operating. Take the hose that leads to the nozzle off at the pump and blow a little air through it and make sure you are getting fuel spray out of the nozzle. Make sure the fuel line is clear and the filter, if it has one and it should, is clear as well. Reassemble and be carefull on torquing the screws on the cover. If you over tighten them SNAP the cover cracks and it's LIGHTS OUT again. The majority of these that I have worked on, about 98% the problem was either the inner filter and/or the cover was cracked. GOOD LUCK

Jan 11, 2008 | Dayton Electric Heater

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