Question about Haier HSL04WNBSS Compact Refrigerator

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Overloaded Haier I have been using my Haier AES44 since April 2006 and it has worked fine. The other day I loaded it with more cans than I should have and when I went back the next day I opened it up and it had quit running. The freezer was defrosting and ice had melted inside the unit. I completely unloaded the fridge and turned the knob to off. I dried out the inside and let it set for a couple hours and turned it back on. You can hear a click when it comes on and a slight hum for about 15 seconds, then another click, the hum stops and thats all that happens. I can let it set for awhile and do it again but it does the same thing. I pulled it away from the wall and felt the round thing on the bottom back of the unit and it feels nice and warm. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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  • Anonymous Jan 04, 2009

    Haier AES44B about 4 years old. Stopped running, compressor warm, hear periodic clicking. let compressor cool down overnight, did not solve the problem. Will not start.



    Unable to locate parts diagram or parts list for this model? Any suggestions?



    Tom

  • Anonymous Jan 24, 2009

    HAIER Refrigerator ASE44B Not Working.

    Hums, clicks and does not start.

    Problem seems to be the PTC module or compressor. Cannot find a source for the PTC module (marked P6R8MDOR0503). Don't believe I would replace the compressor.

    www.apwagner.com has a parts list, however this list does not breakdown below "compressor w/accessories" part RF-1750-71 for $162.00. About $50 above the cost of a new refrigerator. This part number would apparently include the PTC module and the overcurrent device which are plugged into the compressor.

    I am about to give up.

    Don't believe I will buy a Haier product in the future

    Tom

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6 Suggested Answers

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: freezer okay, fridge warm

any time the compressor is running the fan in the freezer should be running now you need to empty the freezer do you see a lot of frost on the back wall of the freezer you either have a defrost problem and frost has built up so much its stalling the fan or the fan its self is bad pull the back cover off the freezer wall and tell me what you see please also give me your model number off the serial plate which should be in the fridge section put your freezer stuff in the fridge while we check it out

Posted on Jan 30, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Haier HTQ21JAAWW ISSUES!!!

my refridgerator seems to be workin the freezer is getting cold but not freezing its a top freezer bottom refridgerator the fan in the freezer is also not workin.i had atec come out to check it out. supposedly theres a capasitor that sits next to the compressor that he told me was bad an had to be ordered.its got 2 wires that come off the compressor that plug into this lil box.my question is could this be why my freezer is not freezing an also why the fan inside the freezer is not workin?

Posted on Jul 17, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Haier model# HTQ21J*SS freezer ices up with melted water, not draining

I have the same problem. I pulled off the panel inside the freezer and the motor fan wont move and there is black soot all over like there was a fire and it has a burned up smell inside.

Posted on Sep 22, 2008

MNTECH
  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: GE refrigerator 12 years old runs continuously, exterior warm

Probably not. Newer (and I mean under 15 years old or so) refrigerators may run more % of the time than older units, but are using far less energy while running, so total energy consumption is actually less. The newest energy star models often use less electricity than a single incandescent light bulb uses if left on 24/7. If your run times are noticeably longer just recently, and there have been no other significant changes to account for it (like more and / or longer door openings or a warmer ambient temp., etc.) then you may have caught a defrost problem or bad door gasket problem early. The warm temp on the outer case near the freezer is to prevent condensation from forming in those areas, and is normal. (as a matter of fact, older refrigs often used low wattage electric heaters for that task, almost all newer units use waste heat from the cooling system to accomplish that task) Please don't bother rating this solution, as anything but a Fix-Ya lowers my overall score. Thanks.

Posted on Feb 16, 2009

  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: Air or gas leaking from freezer in Haier mini fridge

If you go to a refrigeration supply the sell an epoxy to repair the evaporator but you will need to do a sealed system repair

Posted on Jun 07, 2009

woodchuck789
  • 4059 Answers

SOURCE: Ice is forming on the back wall of my freezer

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Posted on Jul 06, 2010

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Try the manufacture!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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