In case my HP f1523 may be similar. It has 2 screws in the bottom corners on the back plus 2 more under rubber covers that pull off which hold the stand on. I undid all of these and under the stand there was another screw which I removed. I was then able to unclip the front starting at the bottom. However, I couldn't get at the power supply, just the PCB with the buttons and volume control.
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The HP is a flat screen monitor used with many desktop computers. When the LCD on your HP monitor goes white, it is an indication that your monitor's inverter board has gone bad. The inverter board is a small circuit board that transfers power from the monitor's main circuit board to the LCD screen. Replacing the inverter board means dismantling the HP monitor.
1. Power down your computer and unplug the HP monitor cable from the back of your desktop. Disconnect the power cable from the back of the monitor. Relocate the monitor to a flat work surface. Place the monitor with the screen facing downward.
2. Remove the Phillips-head screws from the monitor's base stand and from the back cover. Lift the base stand off of the monitor and remove the back cover. Peel away the foil from inside the monitor around the internal circuit board.
3. Locate the inverter board near the bottom of the monitor's casing. Unplug the power cables from either side of the inverter. Loosen the Phillips-head screws from the inverter board. Lift the old inverter out of the monitor's casing and set it aside.
4. Place the new inverter inside the monitor. Replace the Phillips-head screws and fasten it in place. Reconnect the power cables to the connectors on each side of the new inverter. Replace the foil around the outside of the main circuit board.
5. Replace the back panel and base stand, and their retaining Phillips-head screws
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Pop the stand trim cover off. Three screws to take the stand off, and possibly 4 screws in the VESA mount area depending on if you have an aftermarket stand. Just pry the gray cover off after that, it just pops off. Be careful because the plastic is soft and you can nick it. Start at a corner first and it is easier. After that you have the cover off, and need to take the power switch board out of the case. Unplug all three connectors and lift the lcd out of the gray cover. Four screws around the LCD and two on the back will let the metal shield come off. Unplug the LCD ribbon cable and CCFL tube wires and it will lift off of the LCD. After that there are about 8 screws that hold the main PCB in the metal cage. If you dont understand the risks of working on electronics it is best to leave this to a pro.
Hi - there are more hidden screws so you need to undo those:
Where the stand joins on the back, there are two plastic bits either side of the pivot. They don't look as if they come off but if you squeeze them (squeeze top and bottom) then they unclip.
Remove the 4 metal screws you have just revealed (2 each side)
Remove the 4 larger metal screws holding the stand to the monitor
Remove 1 metal screw that you have just revealed which was hidden by the metal plate on the stand holder.
Use a straight-bladed screwdriver to create a gap at the bottom of the monitor between the silver front / black back of the case.
Open this up all around, and remove the silver front - undo the multi-cable connector which connects to the operating buttons and put the silver part to one side
Lever out the monitor chassis.
Put the LCD face down on a table but make sure there is nothing underneath it (I have two black blobs where mine sat on a bump in the table!)
Then open up the cage with the electronics in it, by undoing 2 screws and sliding the cage off.
Remove the four screws holding on the power board (the big one with a mains connector, disconnect any connectors, and then remove the board.
If your monitor is not working (even if the power light is dead), check for swollen electrolytic capacitors (tall things with an x at the top, made of metal with plastic around them). If you have swollen ones, that's probably why the monitor doesn't work. Replace them (make sure the + and - sides are in the correct places when you replace) and hopefully your monitor should work.
If it still doesn't work, look for any heat damage and poor soldering.
The Capacitors on the power board are usually the reason for failure of an LCD. If you open the HP VS17 ( I can provide an exhaustive step by step If I have to) remove the five screws for the power board ( larger of the two boards) and look for an area where there are 4 caps (see pic). Look for exploded, popped up, bulging, or leaking caps and replace with the same or slightly higher tolerances. The one I replaced last night were (2x )1000uf25-50volt and (2x) 470uf25-50volt. Check the rest of the board for similar issues and replace as needed.
These are a snap to open.
Put a towel on a flat surface like the dining table.
Remove the 2 screws that hold the stand in and slide the stand out of the hole.
Remove the screw in each of the 2 bottom corners.
Remove the screw in the middle at the bottom (it was under the stand to begin with but some do not have it for some reason.)
Now comes the easy part.
Put a few fingers onto the section the power plug goes into.
Tuck your thumbs into the hole left by the stand.
Push into the power plug section downwards with your fingers at the same time pull upwards with your thumbs. The rear panel should pop up. Gently pop it all around the edges.
Just managed to open a FP17G+ monitor. My hope is that FP17G is similar and that this comes in handy.
There are 5 screws holding the casing together. Four are in the corners (black screws on my monitor). The 5th is right under the monitor stand (silver screw on my monitor.
To open the monitor, I had to:
1) Remove the monitor stand. To do so, you need to take out the two screws at the point where the base connects to the monitor (right above the pivot point) and slide out the monitor stand. THis should give you enough space to take out the 5th screw.
2) Unscrew the five remaining screws on the back of the monitor.
3) At the bottom edge of the monitor, there are two gaps between the front and back plastic panels of the monitor. You can place a wide screwdriver in this gap and gently pry apart the front and back of the monitor. Continue around the edge and the monitor will be open.
Best of luck... If you figure out what is wrong inside, let us know (I am trying to fix the same problem).