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First, have you check to see if one of the breakers have been thrown? Second, if the breakers are good, check the "thermal cutoff" for continuity. It is located on the blower housing. Here is the part to order in case it is bad. Post back your results.
Are you comfortable taking the dyer apart? There are just a few simple screws to remove. It sounds like a bad blower wheel. If you follow the link you should be able to trouble shoot the issue. http://sites.google.com/site/sublimeappliancerepair/washer-will-not-spin/agitator-woes/dryer-will-not-work/how-do-i-get-inside-my-dryer/gas-dryer-quits-heating/more-gas-dryer-enlightenment/gallery-of-dryer-parts-locations-and-diagrams/frigidaire-gibson-kelvanator-dryer-101/kenmore-whirlpool-englis-roper-dryer-notes/ge-dryer-repair/maytag-norge-amana-crosley-basic-repair-info
your belt has come off the drum or has broken. Take the model and serial number to parts house for replacement. The belt should be accessed through the back of the dryer. Good Luck on your repair. Make sure to disconnect electricty before removal of back.
I'd say take the 50% off offer. Dryer drums are very thin, and a weld would most likely still make a thump noise every time it passed the drum supports. (two thumps per revolution) I've seen this on other brands which use thin stainless steel drums. (I didn't look up your model to see if the drum was SS or powder coated metal, or galvanized, or whatever) It is not a real common thing, but certainly not unheard of. I'd say it was indeed a poor weld, but the manufacturer's generally won't help much once it makes it past the warranty period. Don't bother rating this, as anything but a FixYa lowers my rating. Thanks.