Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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Sub Pully has wore to the point it allows the belt to slip off

My machine is 3 yrs and 4 months old. It stoped working and i took the back cover off. I found that the large "Sub Pully" had come loose which cause the belt to come off and break. It also cut into the drum but not trough any of it. I had service come out and they told me that he would recommend a replacemnet of the (Sub Basket $689, Sub Tub-oute $445 & the sub pully $53) the total came to $1406! I paid $999 so i would have thought after 8 calls to Sears that someone would have wanted to keep me as a customer and be able to send me the pully for free to see if it would solve the problem as it happened only due to the bolt coming loose on shaft that is attached to the basket. My concern is if i order the part myself and the actual shaft is wore then i will have the same problem after some number of loads, correct? Do i need to throw this one away and never buy Sears/Kenmore again? other suggestions?

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Cliff, I think the tub and basket have a five year warranty on them. If the technician thinks they need replacement, then the warranty should cover it. Should be a labor only deal...Catriver...post back.

Posted on Mar 22, 2007

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Disconnect the power
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Your going to check the belt and pulley inside the machine but let me warn you first, this is a knuckle busting nightmare of a machine, and if your not fond of the idea of bleeding, grease and pain, call a repair company. I'll post a few examples to help you make your mind on the topic.
Belt wore out

Had to remove pump-not easy. Nothing wrong with pump, but had to trash it to get it off the motor shaft, so I had to replace it, too.

Pop up top of cabinet and remove front panel. (I leaned unit back against a wall to facilitate internal access once panel was removed.)


Remove motor assy - 4 screws & connector.

Remove 3 pump screws (torx) and 2 hoses. Pry pump off motor shaft (not easy). I used a heat gun to help expand the plastic fitting on the motor shaft.

Remove old belt, put on new belt. (Do not use automotive belt-this belt is designed to slip because it also spins the tub. The tub will not spin when it's full of water, and the pump will not pump the water if the tub is bogging down the pump. Plus, you will probably overheat the motor.)

Press new pump back on motor shaft (advise not to re-use old pump as seals were probably damaged by removal process.)

Caution: Pressing pump onto motor shaft may cause pump rotor to bind in housing. Try to press it on a little too far so you back off slightly.

Replace pump screws.

Replace motor, giving attention to belt alignment.

Replace motor screws and connector.

Re-attach hoses on pump.

Button up cabinet.

Done.

The hardest part was removing the pump. If not for that, it would have been a 15-min, $20 repair.

Because I felt it wise to replace the pump also, it was a $70 repair.

#2


Drive pump leaked

It took some trial and error but overall not a difficult project.

1. Take the front covers off.
2. Undo the pully spring to loosen belt
3. Remove belt off idler pulley wheel and free up belt from the large wheel.
4. Disconect the wiring harness and the hoses.
5. Undo the motor mounting bolts (4)
6. Take motor out of washer and remove the 3 screws holding the pump to the motor.
7. The pump had melted to the shaft and required I chisel the pump off of the shaft.
8. Attach new pump paying attention to where the belt is positioned.
9. Reattach the motor bolts, hoses, and wiring harnes.
10. Attach the belt and test the pump.
11. Put the front back on

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

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I have a Sankyo Sound 600 projector that I found in my basement. For sone reason neither film wheel is moving. Since it's been sitting for years in my basement is there something that can be used to...


I have the same projector. Many years ago the main drive belt rotted off and needed to be replaced. This drive belt drives everything in the projector. If yours has failed, you will need to remove the back cover (4 phillips screws) and replace it. Just find the drive motor (about center top) inside the projector. With the shaft pointing front to back, the main drive pully is on the back end with a fan mounted on the front end. E-bay sells replacement belts for about $10.00 to $13.00 dollars. I just used a belt that I picked up at the local electronics store that looked like it would fit. You should replace both belts, if one has failed, this is an old projector. If only the take reel has a problem, ie slipping, adjust the clutch on the rear drive pully.
Ray_1725.jpg

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The drive belt on my Honda HRB215 keeps jumping off. I took the mower apart far enough to get at the belt and noticed the the drive pulley going into the transmission is wobbling around like the bearing is...


The input shaft on the transmission is snapped.The shaft is snapped off from its fitting.This causes the belt to slip/ wobble.The belt should not wobble.There should be zero wobble.Only the belt should smoothly spin, but not wobble.---- Check the shaft.------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

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I have a Skil Belt Sander 7313-44 with auto adjust on the belt. The belt is now slipping off. Can I adjust the auto adjust or is it just plain shot?


Seven years later... sorry, man!

— Solution —

I have a Skil Belt Sander model 7313 which must be very similar if not the same. It has a 3/4HP motor, 3" x 18" belt capacity, a lever for belt release and a single Phillips screw for "adjusting auto-track" which is a misnomer in itself. Very odd. That screw is on the front left as you are using the sander, belt-down. When you "loosen" (CCW) this screw, the belt should move (if at all) toward the body of the sander; "tightening" it (CW) changes the angle of the front roller, which can force the belt off the open side. In my case I had to loosen it all the way just to slow it from slipping off the machine.

My tolerances wore over time — or my belts were constructed poorly — so that the belt always rode off and away from the machine no matter where that screw was .

So, I "shimmed" the roller closest to the adjustment with a 1/2" strip of duct tape one full wrap around (this made the end of the roller closest to the tracking adjustment "fatter." Tested it. It needed more. I added another piece of tape to the complete circumference of the roller, but this time 1" wide, covering the first tape right up to to the original edge, and over toward the middle. Tested it again. It needed more, but was improved. I added one more tape, 1-1/4" wide from the same edge out to the middle — effectively making a bit of a 'cone' toward the center, and this solved it for me. I think that in my case, the belts I bought at Home Depot were just a bit too long and needed this shimming method to take up slack.

I found it easiest to make final adjustments "under load." Sand something right-handed using light pressure and adjust the screw with your left hand. (Note: this differs from the offical instructions in the manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/132374/Skil-7313.html?page=8.

It may help to lubricate the pivot point of the front roller, which is actually about 4" back of the axel, right at the release lever's rivet, back inside the machine. If this pivot point is not fee moving, your auto adjust may not be able to allow proper rocking for adjustment.

Also, with the belt off the machine, you can get a better idea of how the adjusting screw for the so-called auto-track feature does its work. Mine seems to have a lot of room to adjust it exactly the wrong direction, and no adjustment in the opposite direction. Hence my shimming idea.

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The belt slipped off my indesit wib101 washing machine but it hasnt snapped or anything will i need a new belt completley or can the old 1 be replaced its first time this as happened and washing machine is...


Hi, If the belt shows no sign of wear and its not torn or cracked then you have nothing to loose in trying to put it back on, some machines have a tensioning bolt that can be undone slightly so the motor can be moved down to tension the belt if it seems loose and others do not, but if you anre unsure you can always get a new belt anyway.

Another consideration is that the machines bearings may be getting worn, making the pully go out of alignment (hence the belt coming off), check this by gently pushing the front rim of the stainless tub up and down, if you can feel movement it may be worth getting it checked for bearing failure with a view to getting them replaced.

Hope this helps.

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