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Hayward C-Spa XI 11 heater non operational

I have replaced both elements, and contact, no power coming from contact, will work when manually pushed, but not otherwise, have power going to thermo, coming from thermo to pressure switch and power leaving pressure switch, cant figure it out please help

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  • jftolbert196 Dec 16, 2008

    Richie, thanks for your assistance. I have power at the elements(new), power in and out of pressure switch and thermostat. I guess I will bypass thermostat first, see if that works. I'm frustrated as I've already spent 3 hours and 250 dollars to no avail. Any additional advice would be appreciated.



    John

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Hi not coming from the US but from the UK. have you wired up the elements correctly?
you need to make sure there is power at the elements, you can do this by using a multimeter.

By physically disconnecting the elements & fitting a plug on them & plugging them directly into a power outlet, that way you can definately be sure that the elements are ok, but if you are in the US make sure its all to code?

Check the thermo( I am guessing by this you mean the thermostat?)
You can link this out just to make sure that the thermostat is not at fault. so by doing that you are putting the heater in a permanent demand, if that works then it could be the stat thats giving probs.

So you kinda get where i am coming from process of elimination here? or that if a timer is in an off position?

My hunch sounds as though it could be a pressure switch prob?

if you have wired the elements in right make sure your not getting a back feed & that its not showing you theres power when in esscence there isnt ?

Kindly

Richie

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

  • Richard Marchant Dec 16, 2008

    hi John thanx for the kind reply, sorry you have had so much expense so far.



    not being an expert on US products but i think the principle is similar to our systems.



    let me know what happens as i am interested in what happens



    Richie

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The water heater label also shows element wattage, brand, voltage, serial number, and type of operation.
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Hello - I have a 6-7 yr old Whirlpool EnergySmart 50 gallon 5500 watt water heater. (Two control boards fried and were replaced free). Symptom now is not enough hot water. No 'error codes' are blinking...


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3) Typical electric water heater heats 21 gallons per hour. First hour delivery is higher since elements heat water as you use it. Overall however, electric water heater cannot re-heat as fast as gas because gas water heater burner carries more BTU punch per minute than electric element. Gas heats about 41 gallons per minute, with higher first hour delivery.

4) IF YOU HAVE OLDER energy smart and installed newer board, then you could have non-simultaneous operation is reversed so that lower element comes on first.
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5) Another potential problem is that you have sediment inside tank and that is reducing efficiency of lower element.
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2) Keep in mind that upper element heats top part of tank first.
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3) Non-simultaneous operation is necessary for most water heater installations because both elements are not ON at same time. Either upper element is ON or lower element is ON or both are off.
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Your testing may be off here. Or you might have special order 'simultaneous' wired water heater.

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Elements test for 120V at all times, but with ordinary non-simultaneous water heater, only one element at a time has 240. This is called non-simultaneous operation.
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If both elements were drawing 240 at one time, then upper thermostat is bad, or else your water heater is wired for simultaneous operation, and one of the elements is burned out.
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Your tank might be wired for simultaneous operation, if water heater was special order from Rheem, or if somebody changed wiring and set lower thermostat-and-element on a separate circuit breaker.

If you have simultaneous operation, then you would have 2 circuit breakers and 2 wires going to water heater or one 50 amp breaker with 8 gauge wire to heater. If this is the case, then both elements could test for 240V and one of the elements is bad, and thermostats are ok.

If you have ordinary Rheem water heater, then it is wired for non-simultaneous operation where only one element is ON at a time. This is called non-simultaneous operation and you can check because water heater has one circuit breaker rated for 20 or 30 amps.

Rheem elements are 4500Watts.
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So if upper thermostat is bad, and it is turning on both elements so they both test for 240, then thermostat is bad, but also one of the elements has to be bad.
Or test is inaccurate.
Interesting puzzle.

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