Goodman furnace may be producing to much water

I WOULD CHECK THAT YOUR PVC PIPING IS SEALED PROPERLY.

If I remember correctly, there are dip switches on that control board that can be set individually. It is possible that it is just a setup issue. The switch positions should be explained in the installation instructions. I know that some Goodman and Amana two stage furnaces can be controlled by a single stage thermostat, but the dip switches have to be set properly. If the switches are set correctly the furnace will run in low stage heat for approximately 5 minutes and if the thermostat hasn't satisfied yet, it will kick in to high stage heat. I hope this points you in the right direction!

For clarity, a Furnace produces HOT AIR for heat while a boiler produces HOT WATER for heat. Just remember...boil = water. You said your "furnace" does not produce hot water for a shower and because furnaces do not product hot water unless they have some model that do???? Usually people with a furnace have a seperate hot water heater. People with boilers though can produce hot water for use as both their sinks/showers hot water and their heat (by heating water that goes through baseboards) in their house. I don't believe any furnaces produce hot water most of the time a furnace just produces hot air for heating. So figure out what you first have.
Having said that, I'll assume you have a boiler like I do and my Weil McClean(sp?) stopped working a while back and wasn't turning on to "boil" any water. I took apart the burner and there is a light sensing photo resistor as part of the controls. If this phto resistor goes bad, the boiler will not start. The resister is cheap, I think it was $8 but you have to know what you're doing to change it. So you may be better to call someone who can work on such equipment.
Boiler's themselves are not overly complex. Home heating oil is the same diesel fuel that you can buy in a gas station only the government has "oil" companies put a RED die in home heating fuel which is usually cheaper then Diesel fuel because diesel fuel is taxed to death. The reason they do that is so that if you try putting RED tinted home heating fuel in your truck and you get pulled over (because you're a trucker with and 18 wheeler and they typically do inspections of these trucks) you will be a huge fine if they see you're running home heating fuel and NOT paying your taxed by purchasing Diesel fuel. A little bit of background so you know the fuel you are dealing with here. So it's dieslel fuel without the tax you run in your boiler. Gasoline on the other hand is VERY explosive as you know, but diesel fuel (if you're ever tried to light it) takes some coaxing to get lit. When it's cold out, diesel fuel is very hard to light and that's why trucks use glow plugs. You don't need those in your home though.
But because diesel fuel/home heating oil is hard to light, it's sprayed as a msit into your boiler, so that it can light more easily.
But because it is a fuel, you should know what you're doing when messing with it. FInd out what you have, and then have someone work on the issue if you haven't already. I'm guessing you have had it fixed by now?

Is the gas turned on or does it come on but goes off quickly?

Gas regulator or flame sensor for all GMT models

Hi,
Yes, they do make a conversion kit...you should be able to find it online or buy it from a dealer...

How to find Air Conditioning, Heating and Furnace parts online.
heatman101

Check the top of the gas flue. Make sure the cap is on it. If not it will allow rain to get inside. If this is only a furnace, this is the only thing it could be. Nothing produces water in a furnace. If it has an A/C coil attached. The condensation drain might be stopped up allowing it to leak.

yes you use sheet metal screws and than use Foil tape, works better than caulk imho.

Your furnace is more than 90% efficient and extracting so much heat from the gas that it condenses instead of blowing out steam. This is good! Figure that for every dollar you spend on fuel, you are getting back 90+ cents back in heat. Compare that to the typical units that only get 70 - 80 cents back in heat.

Yes you should drain your condensate to a proper drain via gravity or a condensation pump. I would recommend you treat the condensate first with a acid neutralizer prior to draining in municipal drains due to it's high content of sulfuric acid. You can purchase these filter type neutralizers on the net or at a good heating wholesaler.

all gas heaters produce obnoxious fumes. some more than others. natural gas produces carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, hydrogen sulphide etc. propane produces carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide and water vapor. incomplete combustion produces high concentrations of carbon monoxide. check your air-gas mixture for better combustion.