Question about Frigidaire FEB24S2AB Single Oven

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I have a Whirlpool GY396LXPS02 slide-in oven/range. Starting last night, the oven will not bake or broil. The oven light doens't work either. The range still works fine. A neighbor of mine suggested changing the "Circuit board" as he called it saying this was apparently common with newer Whirlpool ovens. Anyway, I found the parts breakdown but could not find a "circuit board". I did find a control panel (p/n 8191148) which look slike the actual housing for the controls. I also found a migration control (p/n 975476). Which should I replace?

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  • thompsonr Jan 22, 2009

    From what I read, the control panel is the problem. It has the touch pad manufactured inside. The Migration board is connected with a ribbon cable and is probably not the problem. The sites I read said this was very common and repetitive.

    I just disassembled mine and am debating on the repair or replace options....

  • biscuitbaker May 24, 2009

    I have the same problem . The touch screen will not cancel bake or broil. If this is a common problem why are they not having a recall on this unit (GY396LXPS02). I have tried to reset the oven from the breaker box, that trick worked for about three months. Now dead just displays pf (power failure from reset of breaker and clock. Any suggestion to this common problem. Do i have to replace parts or is their a connectivty problem behind the touch screen.

    biscuit baker



6 Suggested Answers

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Frigidaire ES200/300 316257123

look for a shorted bake element .. you should be able to see where it poped. ( some times ) if you have ohm meter you can ck for an open element . **** //

Posted on Dec 04, 2009

  • 417 Answers

SOURCE: oven not working

It is most likely that the oven heating element has failed, which would be the likely source of the 'bang' you heard, you may also need to check the oven temperature control sensor as this may have gone out at the same time.

Posted on Jan 18, 2010

  • 8220 Answers


Might be the limit

If you need further help, reach me via phone at

Posted on Mar 13, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: model FEFL78CBC frigidaire oven bottom (bake)

We had the same thing happen and now they came and said it was the clock that needs to be replaced. They said that controls the oven. Even though clock is on and working the function for turning on the oven is not

Posted on Mar 16, 2010

  • 1622 Answers

SOURCE: I have a slide in

things you'll need:

* Masking Tape And Pen
* Wire Cutters
* Wire Nuts
* Wire Strippers
* Flathead Screwdriver
* Replacement Parts
* Wire Cutters
* Wire Nuts
* Wire Strippers
* Wire cutters

Has one burner on your electric stove suddenly stopped burning? Don't worry. Usually this is a problem you can solve quickly, once you've used the process of elimination to figure out what's wrong. One safety note--always unplug the stove between each repair step to avoid shock.


Identifying the problem

Inspect the faulty element to determine whether it plugs into a receptacle, as most do, or is wired directly. If it plugs in, move on to step 2. It the element is direct-wired, move on to step 4.

diodeic.jpgRemove the plug-in element and inspect the prongs: Lift up the front of the element, then pull the element straight out (see illustration). Check to see if the prongs are burned, pitted or otherwise damaged. If they are, you'll need to replace the element and the receptacle.

If the prongs are clean, test the element: First reinstall it in the receptacle and turn on the burner--sometimes an element just needs to be reseated to work right. If it still doesn't heat, turn off the burner, exchange the element with another of the same size and test. If the burner works now, the original element needs to be replaced.

If the element is direct-wired, lift the front of the element and pull it out until you see a white porcelain insulator with clips on each side.

Open the insulator. Wedge a flathead screwdriver under the side of one clip and gently pry. This will pop the clip off. Repeat to remove the other clip. Then separate the two halves of the insulator.

Remove the screws that hold the element to its wiring, using a screwdriver. Exchange the element for another of the same size. Reassemble both elements so no bare wires are left exposed, then turn on the burner. If the new element works, the original one needs to be replaced.

Replacing an element

Take the faulty element to a hardware or appliance store and buy a replacement.

Install the new element in the stove. For a plug-in element, just plug it into the receptacle. For a direct-wired element, screw the new element to its wiring, reassemble the two halves of the porcelain insulator, and snap the clips in place.

Test the element to make sure it's operating.

Replacing a receptacle

Disconnect the old receptacle. If it is screwed to the cooktop, use a screwdriver to disconnect it. If it is held in place by a spring steel clamp, spread the clamp and pull out the receptacle.

Lift the cooktop so you can access the receptacle wiring. On some stoves, you just need to lift the corners to raise the cooktop; on others, you have to push the top backward first, then lift. Prop the top open, using the brace that is attached to the inside of the cooktop.

Remove the receptacle. Wrap the wires with masking tape and label them so you can install the new receptacle correctly, then cut the wires. Take the receptacle to a hardware or appliance store to get a replacement.

Install the new receptacle. Strip the ends of the wires with a wire stripper, then twist the wires together and twist on wire nuts to hold them together. Reinstall the receptacle in the cooktop and install the element.

Tips & Warnings

If these steps don't identify your problem, ask a professional to check the surface switch that controls the faulty element. Occasionally it can go bad.

If the entire stove won't work and the power is on, check the stove fuse. It may be near the surface controls or under the cooktop.

Always unplug your stove between each repair step to protect yourself from accidental shock.

Posted on Apr 14, 2011

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Hope this helps.
Please rate my solution.

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