Question about Frigidaire FEF366 Electric Kitchen Range

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Frigidaire FEF366DCC range, oven elements won't heat. after using self cleaning function, oven elements quit working. Replaced lamp socket & temperature probe (both defective). Now when you set the temperature, the electronic control panel "clicks" like the range is pre-heating but nothing happens. I tested the lower element with my V-O-M & it tested good. Help, I don't want to order the control module (which seems to be operating properly) unless that absolutely is the problem. Thanks

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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roadbird383
  • 40 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire lower element not working

Does the element have continuity??Did you do an amp reading with the element connected?? Do you have voltage at the element terminals??If you have voltage at the element and you don't read amps when unit is on then it's the element.If it's the coil?The board should be replaced.Local appliance store may have it or can order it.

Posted on Nov 21, 2007

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fwadley
  • 482 Answers

SOURCE: no heat from the baking element in the oven

I beleave you are right.

Posted on Dec 18, 2007

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire oven heating elements **** the bed

open the bottom drawer and get the model number off the serial plate on the left hand side i think its a slide in with the controls on front

Posted on Mar 31, 2008

BNewberry
  • 93 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire Smooth Top Range/Oven stopped working

Computer is cooked. Sorry to tell you.
I am a factory servicer for Electrolux / Frigidaire
I replace tons of those clock controls. They shouldn't be $160 though

Any questions about these stoves send me and email.
I will be glad to help you out.
Thanks

Posted on May 23, 2008

  • 112 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire Smooth Top Range/Oven stopped working

Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Cheers
Dave

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

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