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The direction of light can be changed in 2 ways. One way is refraction which is usually done by a lens (eyeglasses do this). The other is reflection, most often done by a mirror. Telescopes are almost always based on reflection and/or refraction designs. A reflective telescope has at least one curved mirror, often 2 curved mirrors which focus light by reflecting a larger area of natural light on a smaller spot.
If you have a scratch on the front lens of your camera, this could cause this. Bad light conditions, won't help a camera to autofocus.
But every light that can enter the front lens from a certain angle, can cause flares. Called lens flares. On DSLRs you often see a lens hood that comes with the lens. It is wrong to think you only need them in bright sun light, and put them the wrong way around on your lens. Every light source can cause a flair. So even shooting in the dark, close to a light source a lens hood can help to avoid flares. If you don't have a lens hood, screen the light with your hand.
On Wikipedia, you can read more about lens flares.
I won't tell what brand and what model, but a expensive system camera got white orbs in the picture when shooting in certain (dark) light conditions. So don't think it is only your camera.
If it's a DG UV (ultraviolet) filter, it cuts reduces the ultraviolet light reaching the lens. UV light scattered from particles in the air is what produces much of the haze that can obscure distant objects like mountains. Other than that, it has little visible effect. Some photographers like to keep an UV filter on their lenses at all times, on the premise that it's cheaper to replace the filter instead of the lens should it bash into something.
If it's a DG Circular Polarizer filter, that's something completely different. A polarizer cuts light waves bouncing in a particular orientation. You get this kind of light in reflections from glass and water, for example. Try looking out a window through the filter. By turning the filter (it has a rotating ring on it), you should be able to accentuate or reduce reflections and glare. It can also darken the sky, reduce reflections from leaves, and has other effects. The best way to explore its uses is to go out on a relatively sunny day and look at things through it. Try taking pictures with and without the filter and compare the results.
Since the D60 meters through the lens, you don't have to do anything to compensate for either filter. Just put it on and take the picture.
If you have any other questions, please feel free to ask.
DVD/CD Read/Write process:
1. The tray or carriage places the disc into the spindle or motor.
2. The spindle motor locks into place to prepare motor to spin - the disc is in free space and does not touch anything except the spindle motor.
3. The laser assembly moves into home position and attempts to focus on the disc by emitting infrared light to disc.
4. If a disc is present, the light should reflect back to the laser lens as the lens attempts to focus on the light - you will notice the lens moving up and down to focus. The lens should NOT touch anything.
5. Upon a successful focus, the spindle motor spins.
6. Data is read and sent to a buffer for decoding.
NOT RECOMMENDED! The laser lens is designed to NOT touch anything while it is functioning - moving up and down to focus on light reflection from the CD or DVD disc. These gimmicks can knock the lens off the laser.
The clicking sound is from the laser lens trying to focus the reflection from the disk after it shines a laser beam to the disk surface - it can't focus so the lens is hitting the disk. It's not suppose to do that if the reflection is received properly. Cause - probably a dirty lens or a bad laser pick-up transducer.
if this is a manual mirror version (light is provided by reflection from a swivel mirror under the sample. this mirror needs to be in the correct position for you to see.
also check your optic selection, (switch to a different lens) see if this helps, (you may also not be selected properly)