MY 1999 MAYTAG PERFORMA ELECTRIC DRYER STOPPED RUNNING.
No, the breaker did not trip and Yes, the 240 is present at the outlet and the plug did not pull out.
I saw something said about a thermal switch. Is it located at the top side of the service panel (accessible from top)? If so, what should this component read when using an ohm meter? Thanks in advance!
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Re: MY 1999 MAYTAG PERFORMA ELECTRIC DRYER STOPPED...
Well you need to get the lint ball out of the filter housing blower area. So you have to get the front off. To get to that limit you will also need to pop the top. The limit is in the rear on the right hand side of the heat element.It is mounted to the side of the heater chamber with a clip and the same long screw which holds down the heater element. The limit has to have continuity or the dryer will not run.The kit comes with 2 small limits(color coded) one is set for 250 for gas heat and the other is set for 300 electric heat
This blower wheel will strip out and cause the fuse to blow also. The cust will tell you it takes long periods of time for the clothes to get dry.MY 1999 MAYTAG PERFORMA ELECTRIC DRYER STOPPED RUN - 7b85ea0.jpgo the dryer you start here:
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You didn't mention if you knew for sure if there was power to the dryer or not. If a gas type, it should have a standard 120 volt outlet that you can plug a lamp, radio, etc. to see if power is present. If an electric type, it will have a 240 volt outlet specifically for a dryer. You will not be able to test the outlet unless you have a meter, test light etc.
Locate the electrical panel in the home or building for your space. If you have a gas dryer, look for single pole 15 or 20 circuit breaker that is off or tripped. If an electric dryer, look for a double pole (double-wide) 30 amp circuit breaker that is off or tripped. regardless if a single pole or double pole, if found off, push the handle back to on. If tripped, push the handle to off, then to on. Check the dryer to see if it runs.
Lastly, some of the newer appliances have mini-computers or processors in them. Like you home computer - it may encounter an issue and gets stuck. You should locate the circuit breaker for the appliance in the electric panel and shut it off for 30 - 60 seconds. Then turn back on. This is similar to a "reboot" and may get the dryer working again for you.
Check your power source. In the circuit breaker box for your home there is a breaker for the dryer. It consists of 2 identical breakers combined into one. Some have a rod connecting the handles together so when one trips so does the other. Some only have one handle that trips both. These breakers sometimes trip one but not the other. That can be the reason you have motors running but no heat. If you have a voltmeter you can check the voltages at the wall plug for the dryer. There are 3 (some times 4) blades on the cord. The 4th blade on the cord is connected to the metal case of the dryer.Unplug the cord and set the voltmeter to check 240 Volts AC. Now insert each test lead into the two outer slots of the plug that look like V shape. If there is 240 volts present then the problem is inside the dryer. If there is not 204 V AC present move one of the test leads to the middle connection. Do this between both of the outer slot and the center to test both breakers If you get 115 volts AC, you'll need to replace the circuit breaker.
This could be a bad breaker or a loose connection in the dryer plug/outlet. If the dryer just will not work at all and there is voltage at the dryer's outlet, then the dryer is defective. I would then suspect the motor as the culprit.
1. Close the dryer door and press the "Start" button for at least one
second. Some dryer brands require the button to be pressed for several
seconds. If the drum tumbles, you can eliminate the possibility of a
problem with the electrical circuit that supplies the motor.
2. Check all the connections on the back of the dryer. Many dryers have
two electrical circuits--one for the heat and one for the tumbling
motor. If the motor works, but there is no heat, check to see if the
larger plug is plugged into its receptacle. Your dryer may have two
plugs--one small regular household plug and one larger 240-volt plug
for the heat. Both must be plugged in for the dryer to work properly.
The larger, three-pronged 240-volt plug will not fit in a normal
household outlet; it needs a special dryer outlet. The plug cannot be
cut down to fit.
3. Check the circuit breakers or fuse panel if the dryer runs but there is no heat.
Check connections at dryer terminal. sometimes they will melt and have now power and wont cause a breaker trip. plug needs 120v at L1 and 120 at L2 and equals 240 with L1 and L2 combined. can check at outlet with a meter.
Hi Matt I'm not sure that swapping out the breakers to higher rated ones will give you a solution so I'll throw in 2 cents to see if my advice holds true. Let's start by asking this. Is the appliance "rated" at 220 volts at 30 amps per leg. I assume this from your post as to what it has been rated. Next - How long is the "run" of wire from the junction box to the outlet where the appliance plugs in? This usually does not matter in most households but if the run is of significant length it may need a larger gage wire to support the current draw of the appliance. Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, are the lugs and wire connectors tight at the outlet, the plug, and the breaker box. A loose connection will ramp up the current fast. This is assuming the first two items were met. Tell me if any of this helps and we'll work it out from there. Thanks. Len
check these 3 things breaker could be tripped remember the outlet for dryer has 2 breakers one could be tripped and dryer could run. check thermal fuse and heater. always disconnect electrical power b4 servicing