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I have a central heater. it will come on and worh fine, by this i mean the draft induce motor comes on, then the glow igniter will come on then flame will come on but after 10 minits or so it will stip the flame and the big blower stays running but the draft induce motor is not runing and will not come on till i turn the thermistat off then back to heat also i remove the metal cover and then it will light. please help me.

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  • Stephen Evans May 11, 2010

    make sure your vent pipe is clear all the way out. Is sounds like a venting problem shutting down the pressure switch.

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Sounds like the filter inside of the unit may be dirty and or the vent cap could be partially blocked causing the flue gas to build upo until the unit tripos on the high limit saftey

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

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Heater does not come on gms80703an


There are too many reasons for this to happen so we would have to narrow it down. The sequence of operation on a Goodman furnace is usually:
1: Inducer draft motor comes on
2: Hot surface ignitor comes on and glows
3: Gas valve opens, lights burners
4: Flame sensor detects flames
5: Blower comes on

If the inducer motor never came on, then you start looking at power to the unit, thermostat issues, or inducer motor issues. Just a few places to start. Hope this helps!

Dec 05, 2013 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

Tip

Heater check out list for heater failures


Almost all furnaces built after 1978 have intermittant type pilots.
Ca banned them requiring electronic spark or hot surface ignitors, followed by induced draft motors, pressure switches or centrifigal switches that "prove" a induced draft exists, allowing the pilot sequence to commence.
electronic spark type units have a high voltage low amperage spark that is AC. Fire rectifies electricity that passes through it meaning AC becomes DC ! Fire is a terrible conducter however as a result , the DC signal is only milliamps/volts signal strength. the DC prescence is proof a flame exists for pilot, and safe to commence to mainburners.

As long as pressure switches stay closed, safeties and limits stay closed
and the DC signal to the ignition module is not broken, the furnace will run.

The normal sequence of operation is upon a call for heat from the thermostat a 24 volt signal is sent to W white (heat circuit) at the low voltage terminal board on furnace.
from there depending on unit and age the heat circuit may include a circuit board, but it still has the typical limits and safetys reqired for operation
its just not using electromechanical relays to control fan and induced draft motor etc.

for the induced draft to begin ,all limits, safetys in heat circuit must be closed.

induced draft begins and a proving switch, either pressure or centrifigal close allowung the pilot to begin, a spark or hot surface ignitor is energized and a pilot flame established,modern types use flame rectification to prove a flame, older Carrier, Payne,types have a 3 wire switch in the piloyt assembly that is a bi metal that expands and contracts clicking open and shut, allowing pilot or main burners, depending if cold or hot.

pressure switches are attached with tubing to the induced draft wheel housing and sense pressure differential and close upon induced draft running, the orifices that the tube attaches to on induced draft housing often plugs or is restricted causing pressure switch to fail to close, or waver on open and close , open , close, .

if you can run the fan in the on postion , you have both high and low voltage to the furnace.

if you dont have fan control check power, breaker , fuses.

on Dec 04, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Furnace was working fine and just stopped working...it reacts to raising the thermostat but doesnt actually flame on


This is probably a ignitor.


1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution:You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks.Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. Please see "limits, rollout switches & furnace control boards" further down on this page. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.
Please leave feedback... Thanks...

Jan 28, 2011 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

My heater isn't blowing any heat. I hear the fan come in, and i think i hear the gas come on, but nothing comes out of the vents. The fan only comes on for a couple of minutes and then goes off.


Ok so here is a sequence of the heater lighting and the solution for your problem...
1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution:You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks.Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. Please see "limits, rollout switches & furnace control boards" further down on this page. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning. Please see the pictures below to help you identify a flame sensor.
Thanks and I hope this helps. Feedback apprec.

Jan 28, 2011 | Honeywell Electronic Programmable...

1 Answer

Hi, I have a vokera 726 combi boiler that will not ignite... when I switch on I can hear the fan but I cannot hear the ignition sparking then error code 01 shows up....hope you can help....many thanks


1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution:You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem

Dec 28, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Goodman 95 %furnace keeps saying low pressure is stuck. changed out low pressure switch and high pressure switch and still have same problem.


That thang might be sensing a lazy flame. In other words the flames took too long in the board's opinion to quit sensing the flame. Yall probably need to do pressure tap on the gas valve.
Here is a realistic look at goodman fault codes and what to check fer and I am assuming you are not a tech and don't know this already and am hoping it helps:


Read one LED flash that stays on continuously to mean your furnace has no signal coming from the thermostat and will not operate. Turn the power off and check the thermostat for improper settings or connections.

Interpret one LED flash that blinks on and off to mean your furnace has locked out because it could not ignite after three tries, and must be reset. Interrupt power to your furnace for 20 seconds or lower the thermostat so your furnace does not try to heat, then reset the thermostat to the previous setting. After one hour of lockout, your furnace will automatically reset itself and try to operate as usual.

Decipher two LED flashes to mean the draft blower is not working, or your furnace has a short in the pressure switch circuit. Turn off the furnace power and repair a short or replace the pressure switch.


Read three LED flashes to mean your furnace has an open pressure switch circuit or it has an induced draft blower operating. Check the pressure switch hose of your furnace for blocks or an improper connection. Also, look for blockages in the flue, and tighten any loose wiring.

Translate four LED flashes to mean your furnace has a primary limit circuit open, possibly from loose wiring or blocked filters. Check and clean filters, tighten wiring and check the flue for blockages.

Interpret five LED flashes to mean your furnace senses a flame without a call for heat. This could be from a gas valve closing slowly or a burner flame lingering.



Read seven LED flashes as a warning of a low flame sense microamp signal. This could happen with a coated flame sensor or a lazy flame from poor gas pressure. Turn off the power and adjust the gas pressure according to the information on the rating plate.



See eight LED flashes as meaning an igniter circuit problem due to a bad igniter or an igniter connected improperly. Replace the bad igniter or check the ground wiring, making necessary corrections.



Decipher nine LED flashes to mean the high-stage pressure switch circuit will not close during a high-stage-induced draft blower operation. Your furnace may have a pinched or blocked pressure switch hose, a blocked flue or loose wiring.

Read continuous flashing on the LED to mean your furnace has a reversed polarity of 115 volts. Turn off the power and correct the wiring polarity after reviewing the wiring diagram.

Now here is how it should all go down:



Bottom dollar: it all goes back to type of gas, the initial setup, the pressure tap. and how it is wired up to begin with.
This will give you an idea where to start I hope.

Dec 10, 2010 | Goodman GMS80903BNA Heater

1 Answer

I have a newer tappan heater and get 4 blinks on led for error code the unit starts up fine and has flame but flame goes off when blower kicks on


Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad ignitor what I see most of the time is the following sequence of operation:


1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution: You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

Nov 26, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

3 Answers

Turn heat on, I hear it ignite and furnace runs and runs fine then usually there is a slight delay and blower turns on and blows heat, but now it does not, I put my hand up to a nearby vent to no heat and...


On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Jan 06, 2010 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

Central heater will not heat up to set temp on thermostac


pressure port is plugged pull hose off draft motor and clean port with a paper clip

Jan 13, 2009 | Omega Trane Furnace Draft Inducer Blower...

2 Answers

Janitrol/Goodman GMP075-3 Draft Inducer Fan Won't come on


most forced draft fans are powered by 120 volts . close to the fan is usually a plug that unsnaps. create a call for heat after turning off to clear safetys and see if your getting 120 to fan on initial call for heat. if you are then fan draft motor is bad, usually sold as an entire assembly replace exact as it came out. sequence of operation is..... stat calls for heat via common and white wire to furnace , 24 volts. ......board sences call and sends 120 volts to forced draft ........ motor runs and creates pressure on proofing switch,....... switch closes 24 to board and tells it draft fan is on......... board then energizes ignitor,....... after ignitior glows gas valve is opened and burner lights ........ either ignitor or seperate sensor rod tells board the burner lit........ and a few minutes later the fan comes on and hot air is blown out. if a step is missed or doesn't proof the furnace either trys up to three times to light or locks out. turning off power usually resets safetys and it will resume attempts to lite normally.

Oct 25, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

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