I struggled with this one but then, on the basis that if all else fails read the manual I found the answer. It's soooo simple. The wide-flash adapter is set. That's the little pull-out screen at the top of the flash which folds down over the flash-head. If it's pulled forward it activates the wide angle setting automatically. Push it back in and you'll be fine. tony k
Just spent 2 hours trying to resolve this problem so top marks to the guy who said: "Simply push the Wide Flash Adaptor fully back into the flash head until it clicks and BINGO. That's was all that was causing it to remain on the 14mm wide angle setting.
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A 35-80 mm lens is 2.3X zoom. Divide 80 by 35 and you'll get the result.
It is usually better to know what the focal length of a lens in "35 mm equivalent" is and judge by that, rather than relying on the "X" power of the lens. For instance, most point and shoot cameras start at about 35 mm and have either a 3X or 4X zoom. This would make it a 35-105 or a 35-140. I've seen some that start at 28 mm, though. A 3X starting at 28 mm is 28-84 and a 4X is 28-112. Neither one is a particularly strong telephoto lens and the 4X is just about the same as the 3X that starts out at 35 mm.
It's also important to realize that tradition dictates that lens focal lengths are usually expressed in terms of "35 mm equivalent," where "35 mm" refers to a 35 mm film camera. This is because of the relation between the sensor size and the actual focal length of the lens and the resultant angle of view of the lens.
I have one point & shoot that is actually a 5.8-24 mm zoom. This is a 4X zoom. The 35 mm equivalent is 28-116 mm. The sensor is 7.2x5.3 mm. (1/1.8") (And I wish I knew someone who could explain how the heck they came up with sensor size terminology!)
I have another point & shoot that is actually a 5.7-17.1 mm zoom. This is a 3X zoom. The 35 mm equivalent is 34-102 mm. "How could a shorter focal length give a longer 35 mm equivalent?" you might ask. It's because the sensor is only about 5x4 mm. (1/2.5")
I have a few Nikon DSLR's and - thankfully - they all have the same size sensor. They all have a "lens factor" of 1.5. This means that you just multiply the actual focal length of the lens to get the 35 mm equivalent and then you can make comparisons accurately from camera-to-camera. Most Canon's, for instance, have a lens factor of 1.6. On a Nikon DSLR, a 28 mm lens is the "35 mm equivalent" of a 42 mm lens. On most Canon DSLR's, the same 28 mm lens is the equivalent of a 45 mm lens.
These example are just to show you how freaking confusing it can all become if you try to make sense of the "X" power of a zoom lens.
Check the 35 mm equivalent specifications for the lens. This way, you will be leveling the field and comparing apples to apples. More or less.
That's the focal range of a zoom lens. Unlike a single focal-length lens (or a "prime" lens) a zoom lens lets you adjust the focal range. "55-200mm" specifies the lens's focal range from 55mm at the low end to 200mm at the long end.
You can read a general description of zoom lenses at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zoom_lens
Nikon current has two different 55-200mm lenses: http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Camera-Lenses/ 2156/AF-S-DX-Zoom-NIKKOR-55-200mm-f%252F4-5.6G-ED.html and http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Camera-Lenses/ 2156/AF-S-DX-Zoom-NIKKOR-55-200mm-f%252F4-5.6G-ED.html
If you're asking about the L110, it has a permanently-affixed lens and will not use either of the above lenses.
Some of the Rokinon (and other ) zoom lenses could only go into MACRO at certain focal lengths- the lens you have "zooms" from 80 to 200 focal length,but is that done by "sliding" a ring forward and back on the lens, or by twisting a different ring that the one that focuses?
Hi - I own this lens and it manually focuses at all focal lengths (hard to see at 18mm unless your subject is extremly close). You may need to get the lens checked. BTW - Mine was set as follows when I checked for you: