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Re: burner would not stay on
Bad or weak thermocouple, or bad or weak overtemp device, there are probably two of the overtemp devices look like a huge button in many cases, if it has a thermocouple that is also a probable cause, it could be a thermal on the motor, but I doubt it, jump out the thermals and see if stays on, if so that is the bad part, if it has a thermocouple replace it, if it is of any age it won't hurt to change it anyway.
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yes this would appear to me to be the classic symptoms of a bad thermistor , this little device proves that fire has lit (via heat) and keeps gas valve open , otherwise gas valve times out and shuts off (safety)
The first thing I would do is make sure the flame sensor is clean, this is a metal rod immersed in the burner flame on the opposite side of the igniter. If too much oxidation builds up on it, it will not allow the burner to stay lit. To clean, just turn off furnace and remove flame sensor and clean with steel wool and then reinstall. If this does not solve the problem there may be a problem with the gas valve.
i'm thinking after the main valve opens the pressure could be dropping in the pilot tube. this could be due to a dirty, plugged and sometimes spider web inside the pilot tube. rare but does happen, nice warm home for a spider. good luck. if not let me know. could also be weak pilot coil.
Hi, sounds like you have a problem with the heat anticipator in the thermostat. If you replaced the fan limit, and with it running that long after the burners shut down, it would be in your stat. If it fires up after resetting breaker, was the stat set to call for heat? If not, the stat is faulty. If you remove the front to get to the stat wires, take a jumper wire and jump from RH or RC to W. Heat will start. Let it run for a minute or so and remove wire. If the fan shuts down with in a min. or so, you will know it was the stat. Good Luck and let me know the out come! Shastalaker7 A/C, & Heating Contractor
Check the entire exhaust vent tubing before buying anything for this dryer to repair.. Most dryers only need a good cleaning to get the heat back running correctly. A moister sensor is working if the lint build up is more than just dust in the vents tubes. Any build up the sensor detects and keeps the heat off. Sometrime you will get heat for awhile although it will shut the burner down quit soon
Problem new or old? How long you have unit? Sounds like not enough flow to keep burner on. Tankless need at least .6 gpm to keep hot water flowing or else the burner fires then shuts fires then shuts and you get a sandwich effect...hot cold hot cold. If you have new diverter valve in shower -vs- old two handle type try turning hot water ALL the way ON and see if hot stays hot. If it does stay hot then slowly adjust to cool and see if you maintain a good MIX for proper temp. If it goes cold again try this......LOWER control pad setting to a comfortable 105 degrees (ladies) 100 degrees(men) and turn shower valve all the way to HOT. See if your temp remains consistant now and if it does then problem solved. Tankless mindset...set temp on control pad and stop trying to MIX at shower valve. Thats how these things work. Thats why I install a control pad in each bath and one in the kitchen for adjusting ash temp during dishwasher on time. ditto for wash machine. You should never need to turn on cold water if your unit is set to proper temp at controller. Hope this helps
I'm assuming you're referring to a gas burner that supplements the heat pump. If the burner lights at all, The ignition system is working. If you need to reset it for it to relight, I would suspect the thermocouple. It detects the flame to prevent gas from pouring out of an unlit burner. If it malfunctions, the control thinks the burner didn't light and shuts down for safety.
What type of gas supply line do you have? Is it black pipe or copper? If it is copper, there can be a film like substance that builds up on the inside of the copper. The debris will the get caught in a pre screen where the supply enters the valve thus cutting the supply of gas to the unit. Also, the thermocouple may be bad. You didn't say that you replaced it. Try replacing it as well. Also, you could have a limit switch turning the system off and thus cutting the gas off completely but it is highly unusual for the pilot to be cut off as well unless the pilot is being blown out when the gas is shut off. Also, turn the unit to fan only without calling for heat. Using a flame of some sort, put it into each baffle of the heat exchanger. If your flame is being blown around in one of the baffles, then you have a hole in the heat exchanger and what is happening is that the roll out switch is cutting the unit off and the air still moving through the heat exchanger is blowing the pilot out. I have seen this actually happen. If your furnace is in excess of 15 years old, it does need to be checked for possible holes. If it is in excess of 25 years old, it is a huge possibility that the unit has already developed a hole. If you feel hair coming out of one of the baffles, then shut the unit down immediately and have it replaced!