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Really sounds like one of 2 possible problems. First, perhaps the door latch itself is broken, and that is unlikely, except that I am unfamiliar with that particular latch on that particular car. Second, it sounds like, if you were to take the door panel off, you would find the latch is locked because one of the locking levers is holding the door latch locked. There or 2 or 3 lever like things that affect the latch. There is a lever from the outside door lock that goes to the door latch. There is a lever from the inside locking handle that goes to the door latch, and yet may be one more. If any of these are "stuck" or broken, they will "hold" the door latch in the locked position. Be blessed.
I had to replace part No 8182408 - the washing machine door handle. There is a plastic bar in the middle of the assembly that broke because the door was opened too hard.
There are two springs, the latch, and the plastic piece that brings it all together. The smaller spring is the key, call it the L spring. It is shaped like an L and goes around the ends of the latch. The other spring is the larger and straight and goes around the tops of the plastic piece. The straight spring goes in with the crossbar facing on the outside of the washer. The latch with the L spring fits in between the plastic crossbar with the U shaped end pressing against the latches inside bar. The antenna of the L spring needs to wrap around the plastic bar and fit inside the straight spring bar. This applies pressure on the latch to stay closed. When the handle is pulled, it releases the pressure and allows you to open the door. The Metal bar is used to hold all the pieces together and once you have the alignment right, put it back into the door with the straight spring antenna tucked in the spots on the door, as well as the metal bar ends. Screw in the two spots that holds the assembly in place and you will be set. The door should open and shut easily.
I assume you purchased the graphics card expansion pack (essentially it is a larger memory module for graphics) Most of these have a red crosshatch pattern on the top side. Open the small latch on the top of the console and remove the module you will find inside. A flat blunt screwdriver will do the trick if a lever was not included. Once you pop that piece out insert your new one in the same orientation that the old one was in. Then replace the latch and that's it!
OK... YOU HAVE TWO POSSIBILITIES... EITHER THE LEVER ON THE TOP COVER BROKE OR THE ONE ON THE PRINTER CARTRIDGE...
IF ITS THE ONE ON THE TOP COVER THEN YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE LEVER HANDLE COMPLETELY AND GET A PLYERS AND USE IT TO TURN THE METAL THE LEVER IS ATTACHED TO OR FIGURE OUT WHERE THE THE LEVER GETS THE MACHINE TO LATCH AND USE A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER AND SLIP THE LATCH... THEN CONTACT KONICA MINOLTA AND PURCHASE A NEW LEVER...
IF ITS THE TONER LEVER THATS BROKEN... YOU ARE GOING TO HAVE TO GET A PLYERS... TAKE A FIRM GRIP ON THE TONER AND REMOVE THE TONER IN THE SAME WAY THAT YOU WOULD IF THE LATCH WAS THERE... IF ITS BEEN PUT IN ODD THEN IT MIGHT BE STUCK... YOU MIGHT NEED TO USE A FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER ON THE ENDS TO HELP THE PROCESS ALONG...
Check the latch assembly where the door closes. If the latch claw is closed it won't latch. Make sure the door is unlocked. Insert a screwdriver into the middle of the claw (circular opening where the striker latches). Open the door handle from inside or outside and pull sideways on the latch it should pop open. If it doesn't then the lock mechanism is in the lock position. Remove door panel follow lock rod to the latch and manually try to move the lever to the unlock position. If all fails you probably will need a new latch assembly.
you will need to remove inner door panel, either the handle itself broke where the rod connects,or the rod fell off or broke at the door latch, or the door latch lever bent or corrodded, the outer and inner handles use the same door latch but not the same mechanisms or rods to operate the latch. Once you remove the door panel and the inner dust shield with the window up look in the bottom of door for clips or a rod or broken parts. and note latch and handle for boken or bent and missing pieces. once you start looking it all becomes self explanatory.
If the door cannot be opened, remove the the outside lower panel. (2 screws at bottom of panel, then lift off. Take a long screw driver (be sure power is removed first!) and push up behind the control panel at the latch at the very top middle of the door. You can them open the door and remove the screws that hold the control panel on. When the control panel is removed you will have access to the door handle and latch pieces. These parts can be ordered through sears partsdirect web site. Good luck.
can you reach the cable itself?,or is it broke at the hood latch?IF its not broken at the outside latch, try to follow the cable,un-hook it from the handle and pull on the wire cable to open it.IF its broken at the latch itself,you are going to have to reach the latch through the grille and try to pull the lever the cable connects to.That part is no fun at all..!!
The paper detector on the fixing units have a history of going bad. The fixing unit is the hot roller above the drum inside the right door on the top. As the copy comes thru the rollers the paper hits a plastic lever that is spring loaded and located in the middle of the fixing unit. The sensor is all the way to the right side of the fixing assembly. If you move the lever in the middle you'll see a piece of plastic moving on the right, that piece comes out of the sensor and if can't reset the jam, that piece may not be resetting itself back inside the sensor. This is difficult to try to explain.