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Refrigerator (Whirlpool) increase in electricity usage

My electricity consumption has doubled over the past month and I have traced it to the refrigerator by shutting it off at the circuit breaker to see the impact on electricity usage. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing the excessive consumption of electricity. I have not noticed it running excessively but have noticed the ice cream is very soft.

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Very doubtfull fridge fault would double elec consumption. look at rating plate and see how many watts then equate this to light bulbs. average light bulb is 60-100 watts (uk). does circuit breaker you turned off only control the fridge?

Posted on Mar 21, 2007

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How do I turn off the kenmore elite 76282 refrigerator without pulling it out and unplugging it. We are leaving for 6 months and want to prop the doors open.


If your only shutting down your frig you can shut off the circuit breaker in the breaker box. GOOD LUCK FRIEND.

Nov 02, 2014 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

My general electric heavy duty automatic electric dryer won't heat. Is there anything to try before replacing heater?


go to your fuse box and try replacing the 2 fuses for the dryer circuit or if you have a circuit breaker box shut off the breaker for the dryer and turn it back on and try the dryer again. I used to be an electrician and found double pole circuit breakers that have only one side tripped. alot of 220volt electric dryers use one circuit for the tumbler motor and the other circuit for the heating element

May 07, 2012 | GE Dryers

1 Answer

Looking for upc code for circuit breaker thql 100 amp or the e a n code


The General Electric THQL two pole 100 amp double breaker?

http://www.azpartsmaster.com/Products/Circuit-Breaker----GE-THQL-100-Amp-DP__BKRTHQL21100.aspx

It's coded HACR.
Heating, Air Conditioning, and Refrigeration equipment.
Means it can be used with electric motors. Electric motors draw a surge of electricity to start.

The UPC code will be for THAT style of breaker, and THAT manufacturer who made it.
Same with the EAN.
It will be on the breaker.

Let's use the Connecticut General Electric THQL 21100 100amp 2-pole breaker for an example;

http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/Connecticut-Electric-THQL21100-100-Amp-2-Pole-General-Electric-Thick-Series-Plug-In-Circuit-Breaker/159077/Cat/1478

Here you see it's UPC is 094925005165

If you are trying to purchase, or guide someone remote from you, in buying a breaker that will fit their service panel, find out what service panel it is.
The Model Number.

This will tell you, or a representative that sells breakers, what General Electric style of breaker that is needed.
Or state it in a Comment, and I'll look it up.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Oct 25, 2011 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

Electricity went out in 1 circuit while using my table saw w/washer going. I replaced the breaker & have 240 volts comming out of it but no electricity to receptacles or switches, So I replaced all...


In workshop areas, the NEC specifies GFCI (ground fault circuit interruptor) outlets.
If you replaced any GFCI outlets, there could be 2 possible problems:
(1) modern GFCI outlets will pass zero voltage if wired backwards (i.e. a load/feed reversal).
check the load/feed wiring of all GFCI outlets, to make sure its correct.
The feed side of the GFCI outlet is wired directly to the breaker, and the load side feeds power
to the remainder (the downstream side) of the circuit (therefore protecting the entire downstream
side of the circuit).
(2) older GFCI outlets could need to be reset if wired correctly - check the reset button(s) just to
make sure that they (and any downstream outlets) are receiving voltage.
Assuming that no GFCI outlets were part of the replacement process (or that your GFCI outlets
are correctly wired), your check for the presence of 240 VAC
should begin at the outlet/switch closest to the 240VAC double pole breaker, and proceed from there (looking for that 240VAC at each device with your 2-prong tester) along to the end
of the circuit until the problem is identified.
What this implies is that you have created (or will create) a schematic or circuit diagram of the
circuit involved - including switches, wires, and outlets (240V and 120V) - and then use that as a
resource to trace the possible sources of the problem from the breaker to the problem.
Here's the question I would want you to answer as you create your circuit diagram:
How did a 240V table saw get on the same circuit as a 120V washer and/or 120V switch(es)?
It seems like during the process of circuit tracing/diagram creation, you may find
that you're dealing with parts of more than 1 circuit, rather than just one. Check the breaker box
for any breakers that are in the "Tripped" position - and diagram those circuit(s) too.
What I would suspect is a wiring problem/mistake with the 1st device (switch or outlet) that is
supposed to feed power to the rest of the circuit, but fails to pass power on to the remainder of the circuit - or that that first device is actually wired to a second circuit with a tripped breaker.

Another thing to check is that your shop may be on its own sub-panel, with the table saw
on a 240VAC circuit, and the washer on its own 120VAC circuit. In this case, the
total curent draw may have tripped the MAIN breaker to this sub-panel in the MAIN breaker
panel (i.e. none of the breakers in the sub-panel were tripped, but the main breaker feeding the
ENTIRE sub-panel tripped, and this (double pole) breaker is located in the MAIN breaker panel).
In this case, the fix would be to reset the double pole breaker in the main panel that feeds the
shop sub-panel, bringing all the sub-panel circuits on line.

The last thing to suspect/check for is a fault in the wire itself, which is the most difficult problem to
diagnose. The fix to a bad wire would be re-fishing a new wire from the breaker box to the 1st
device box - no electrical inspector will require the removal of old wires from walls - so long as they
are not live.
What would make your life alot easier, and what helps electricians diagnose these problems so
quickly, is an electrical field tester (a.k.a. "chirper" tester), which would allow you to check
the wire as it leaves the breaker box to the point where the electrical field disappears.
At the point (point in the wire/outlet/switch) where the chirper stops chirping, you've found your
fault. At Home Depot/Lowe's/electrical supply store, a electrical field tester will set you back
about $8 to $20, depending on whether you opt for one that just lights an LED, or one that
lights and LED and also chirps.

Sep 04, 2011 | Electric Drill Scaler

1 Answer

Currently have this refridgerator which has been under warranty with the vendor we purchased it from. In the past 2 months, we have replaced two of them as the compressor keeps going. All appliances...


Julie - this does sound very strange. It is highly unlikely that all your appliances are on one circuit. In the U.S. (and every other developed country) there are standards for wiring. Refrigerators, along with other major kitchen appliances such as dishwashers, microwave ovens, trash compactors, garbage disposals, etc. require separate and dedicated circuits. That is: these circuits are not shared with other plugs or appliances. This is largely because of the amount of power each requires. Most home lighting and outlet wiring is geared to 15 and 20 amp circuits (except for dryers, ranges, etc.) and having more than one of these appliances on one circuit would cause fuses to open or circuit breakers to trip.

The issue is probably a power quality problem. Voltages that are too high or low, open or split neutrals, poor connections at receptacle terminal screws or even the receptacle slots that grip the prongs of the plug - are all common sources of power quality problems. You should measure the voltage on this circuit (and others) to be sure it is what it should be. If unable to do this, you should contact your electric utility or qualified electrician to do it for you.

I hope this helps!

Dec 07, 2010 | Whirlpool EB2SHKXVQ (221 cu ft)...

1 Answer

Why does my 100 amp main get so hot the black wire is starting to melt, should'nt the breaker trip if there is that much draw?


You need an electrician before there is a fire.
If the breaker is not tripping, then the breaker is bad.

Act now before the heat damages the box and you need full replacement.
Absolutely put the metal cover back over the breaker box and keep the door closed.
Move all flammables away fro breaker box area.
Put a smoke detector right there.
Put a fire extinguisher nearby.
You don't put water on an electrical fire.

Before the electrician gets there, turn off as many electrical devices as you can.
Don't run all at one time.
Run just when needed.
Electric water heater.
Space heaters.
Vent fans.
Electric Stove.
Electric Oven.
Microwave.
Heat AC.
Electric Dryer.
Washing machine.
Power tools.
Big screen TV.
The outdoor lights, and swimming pool pump.
Turn off as many indoor lights as possible.

Now the freezers and refrigerator have to stay on.
Clean out the grilles so they run more efficiently.

Reducing your power consumption will be good practice.
When you call the electrician, tell him the brand and amperage of your main breaker.

If the whole box needs replacement, you might want to upgrade the service to 150Amp.
Some areas, it's code that old panels have to be upgraded to more amperage ... but the electrician will know the details. Call local electric supply house to double-check what the electrician tells you.

Nov 08, 2010 | General Electric 100Amp 3-pole circuit...

1 Answer

Fridge keeps blowing the breaker


Depending on what is causing the breaker to blow will be important to know. Refrigerators do draw a good bit of power on a 20 amp circuit especially when the refrigerator goes into defrost. Refrigerators are made to run on a 20 amp circuit without other machines or appliances using the same power circuit. Circuit breakers weaken over time too especially if they have more than they are. rated for plugged into the same circuit. And your circuit may be doing its job by detecting an excessive draw of power when the refrigerator is plugged in. You must have someone that knows electricity to inspect your refrigerator for shorting and the circuit it is plugged to for correct wiring for every ones safety. Thanks, Sea Breeze

Apr 25, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel RF201ADUX Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

Circut Breaker Trips


If the fault were with the product, the breaker would trip right away. You have either a poor electrical connection (power supply) or a weak or undersized circuit breaker. Free standing ranges usually use a 50 amp double pole breaker. Check electrical connections at breaker, range recepticle, and power cord to range to make sure all are tight. (obviously, have breaker off when making these checks)

Nov 23, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Ground fault trips once turned on.


Either the receptical is wired wrong, or the line safety limit has been exceeded(example If you have a 20 amp breaker and the draw on that breaker exceeds 20 amps the breaker will trip.) You either have to put the refrigerator on a dedicated circuit or trace the circuit that it is on to see if the total load on that circuit is greater than the circuit limit. The simplest being , put the refrigerator on its own circuit.

Jul 18, 2009 | Dometic Refrigerators

2 Answers

Siemens Main Breaker 125 Amp gets warm and trips


sounds like a loose connection ,or possibly a weak main breaker.

Jul 14, 2009 | Siemens /ITE 100Amp 2-pole molded circuit...

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