Sometimes, when the door is opened before the cycle ends, the door will not latch until the cycle is canceled. (press the cancel button) This time I have tried to cancel, remove power for 5 minutes, used the panel sequence "sani - heat - sani - heat" (results in all panel lights go on), but still the door will not latch. I called Kitchenaid, the offer no help, but rather told me to place a call for a service tech.
The latch needs to be replaced. Kitchen Aid has made two updates to this latch. I.E. 2-revised latches. I just replacd the latch assembly and the dishwasher works fine now. Do a search for kitchen aid repair parts online and hav them shipped to your home. The repair takes five minutes. Un-screw all torx bit screws on door and the latch is under neath. One electrical dip switch held on by another screw and a two prong tab to undo the old latch. This seriously took me five minutes to repair and the parts were $40.00 online shipped.
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
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a) May be your door latch is opening due to pressure inside the dishwasher. The door latch opens and the dishwasher will stop. Quite common problem on KITCHENAID. KitchenAid door is a heavier door compared to sister product WHIRLPOOL. If door latch problem then has to change the door lock along with the top latch.
I experienced the same problem after my tension cables broke. The door fell open with such force that it bent the hinges a little. If you've replaced the tension strings (which you should do every 5-8 years) then you don't have to replace the latch. I did and it didn't solve the problem. Here's the solution: Put a towel at the bottom of each side of the door by the hinge. Push the door closed a couple of times to bend back the hinges. Remove the towels and you're back in action. Good luck
There is a quick test to verify there is a problem, this test will take about 2 mins. Open the door, close the dispenser (latched), on the control panel itself, push in this order hi temp wash (HTW) than sani *3 times in that order*. So that means HTW-Sani, HTW-Sani, HTW-Sani. What this will do is run a control service mode, all the LED's will light up, close the door and wait until it stops, within about 45 seconds you should hear the dispenser open. If it opens it is functioning normally, if not, it should be replaced.
I hope this helps
Check for a tripped circuit breaker, inspect the wiring that connects to the dishwasher for breaks. Is the door latch locking? If the door is out of alignment the door switch may not completely engage. To test this, with the door open, close the latch and select a cycle and depress the switch(water may spray-and make sure nothing is setting inside the dishwasher)The switch is probably a little hole with plastic or metal inside. Using the eraser end of a wooden pencil, push inside the hole to press the switch in completely.
You may be able to realign the latch by loosening the screws and moving the striker plate. You may have to remove the control panel to access the screws.
I am an experienced techician and have tried all these solutions in the past sometimes at no avail. But replacing the tub which has a limited lifetime warranty along with hinge arms will solve the issue. This has such a margional clearance I can never see anything visible causing the door to pop open
The door latch pulls the door tightly closed to prevent water leakage around the door. It is also designed to prevent operation while the door is open. The door latch works in concert with the door switch to ensure that the door is tightly closed and latched
The door switch is a separate part from the door latch and is found inside the cabinet. The switch is off when the door is open. Depressing the switch closes the circuit and enables dishwasher operation. Closing the door does not depress the switch all the way. Only when the door is closed and latched, does the door fully depress the switch.
If the door latch is not properly aligned it may not pull the door tightly closed and the door switch will not be fully depressed. Unless the switch is fully depressed the dishwasher will not operate.
It is a simple matter to determine whether the door latch is the problem. Simply open the door, close the latch and select a cycle and depress the switch. Note that if the test is successful, with the door open, the dishwasher will operate and water may spray out. Make sure to first remove all tools from inside the dishwasher. Do not reach inside the dishwasher during the test. Now, inspect the cabinet where the door makes contact with it and locate the door switch. It may have a protruding button or spike or more likely it is a hole with a piece of metal or plastic inside it. You must fully depress that switch. If the switch is recessed, then use a non-conductive object, such as a wooden pencil, to depress the switch.
I have the same problem and it appears that everyone else who has replaced the door seal runs in top this issue. This is a new seal design that is different from the original. This new seal is obviously poorly designed is placing too much pressure on the door causing it to either not close, or open mid cycle. I am presently duck taping the door closed when running the machine in the hope that the heat cycling the new seal will eventually cause it to deform and relieve the pressure. I see that other have attempted to help the process by increasing the release pressure on the latch. This will be the last Kitchenaid large appliance I purchase.
Your door latch may just be getting weak and the temperature and air pressure differentiation when the cycle is complete (it's hot inside) may be popping the door. If you have had the door seal replaced recently that may also be a factor, they can take awhile to settle in.
The problem seems to be the loosening of the screws that hold the interior stainless steel skin to the door frame--not the latch.
With the door in the open position you should find a total of twelve screws (5 on each side and 2 on top at each side of the latch). The screws have a particular type of head which may require a trip to the hardware (its a $1,000 dishwasher take the time to get the right screwdriver). They are called TORX screws the size on my dishwasher was a T 15. These type of screw heads were designed to fit automated torque drivers at the factory that set the screws to the proper tension. So some care should be given when you retighten them. Turn until the screw is snug and there no movement of the inner door skin but don't over tighten. Giving it that extra 1/4 turn can be enough to strip the screw out and create a bigger problem.
Yes--you shouldn't have to be doing this to a KitchenAid appliance that cost this much--but I suspect that this will become a feature of periodic maintenance. The heating and cooling generates enough movement that overtime these screws work themselves out. My wife who was the once to make the right diagnosis noticed that the screws at the bottom were almost entirely out.