Question about Timex Single Setting Timer Tx12620x Light/lights/new

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Timer shorted on output side melting cord and the timer itself. Is there a recall for this and or who do I get complaint to. there was a heavy odor in my home due to the plastic casing melting.

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Skilsaw 5150 7 1/4'' stopped working, I think it overheated?


Yes, it overheated. Not worth fixing, replace it. What happens is that with a very heavy load the saw tries to run a lot of current through the little coil wires that are only insulated with varnish. They heat up, the varnish melts, and a few of them short out together, which increases the current further, causing more heat and more melting until enough shorting in the coils that it won't do anything except trip a breaker. To avoid this in the future-- always use a heavy-enough extension cord and always use a sharp blade. You need a heavy enough cord so that it can supply full voltage instead of more current. The nick in the cord could have contributed to this.

Feb 13, 2013 | Skilsaw "5150" Circular 7 And 1/4 Inch

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Warm to the touch digital timer switch


Warm timer is red flag.
Which timer?
Different timers have different load ratings.
Load rating is usually printed on side of device shown in watts: eg '1000 watts tungsten' means incandescent.
Add up total watts, and compare with load rating on side of timer.
Timers usually have 1 year warranty.
Check for loose connections.
Replace timer.

More details for homeowner:
Timers, switches, outlets should never be warm to the touch.
Circuit breakers should not be warm.
Extension cords should not be warm... exception: small appliance cord but only if small appliance is used short periods such as cooking wok, toaster oven, power saw, vacuum cleaner.
Dimmers are frequently warm to the touch, if the dimmer controls several lights. Check load rating to make sure rating is not exceeded.
TVs, computer, small household transformer etc are usually warm.
None of the above should ever feel Hot.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-household-electricity.html#heat

Sep 03, 2012 | Hardware & Accessories

1 Answer

I purchased a 1875 watts Timex Heavy Duty timer Model # 12-881 to connect to my 1200 watt water distiller. The timer is burned and has melted where the distiller was plugged in. We were furtunate...


Timex 12-881 timer has 3-prong outlet and is rated 15amp 1875 watts.

The timer melted because too much amperage was drawn across the connection and timer got hot.
Different things can cause this.
Phony rating, and/or mis-manufactured timer.
Defective timer.
If distiller has a motor, then it will draw more amps at start-up.
Timer is rated for incandescent light bulbs only.
Many timers say 1875 watts resistive, but instruction sheet will show 1000Watts incandescent and 1/4 HP horsepower.
Timer is plugged into extension cord.
Cheaply built product, not meant for constant use.
Timer outlet and distiller plug did not meet firmly, so connection heated up.
Turn off distiller before plugging into outlet so no spark is at the connection point.

I recommend appliance timer for operating appliances.
For example Intermatic HB 113 timer.
http://www.smarthome.com/25071/Intermatic-HB113C-120V-20A-Heavy-Duty-Mechanical-Appliance-Timer/p.aspx
Also heavy duty portable timer like Intermatic P1121
http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-timers-and-manuals.html#appliance

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And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
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Sep 01, 2011 | Timex Heavy Duty Appliance Timer

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Two year old salt system. Went to manually turn on pump/sweep and found it not working. Upon inspection, found the bottom plastic portion of the timer mechanism has melted and there is a smell of...


T104 is 240Volt heavy-duty timer rated for 40amps.
Open following link to identify timer and correct wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html

1) Since fire occurred at screw terminals, then wiring is best suspect, and not timer.
The timer clock motor consumes 3 watts of power and does not get hot, and is not located near the screw terminals where melting occurred.
The switch connections are mechanical and are also not located near the screw terminals.

2) Turn off power, remove plastic cover, take photo of wiring.
Post photo of wiring on Flickr, and then add a comment with link to photo.
Also include amp rating of circuit breaker, and amp rating of salt system.

3) To confirm cause of timer failure, timer can be sent to Intermatic:
Intermatic would also want to see a photo of wiring.
http://www.intermatic.com/customer%20service.aspx
815-675-7000

4) If wiring area is overheated, possible causes can include too much amp draw or loose wiring.
For example, if stranded wire and copper wire are under same terminal plate. Or two different gauge wires are under same terminal plate.
When electricity travels along copper wire, the wire is heated. If terminal is not screwed down tight, or wiring under the screw plate becomes loose from heating-and-cooling of wires, or different types of wire under same plate, then the loose wire begins to arc and cause melting and burning.
Other causes can be undersized wire, nearby lightning strike.
Several factors including loose wire can combine together and cause problem.

5) Fire safety:
The timer is enclosed inside a box to prevent overheating occurrences from causing a fire.
The closed box starved the fire of oxygen, but the heat melted plastic parts.
This is why timer box covers should always be kept closed, and why circuit breaker boxes are covered with heavy steel cover and door, and why each switch and outlet has a cover, and why all covers should be kept screwed down tight. No electrical connection should be open to air.

6) Take a moment and rate answer:
And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Aug 28, 2011 | Intermatic T104M 208-277Volt 40-amp Timer...

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My ge model 15117 heavy duty timer will not go off in the auto mode. I changed it from auto to off to turn my pump on and then went back to auto and now did not turn off when timer expired


I cannot repair defective timers, and there are complaints about this timer's MODE button.
Most people complain they can't get mode to set.
Avoid the MODE button after programming timer.
Reset the timer by pushing CLOCK PROG MODE buttons. Then re-program the timer per instructions, and then press CLOCK button to exit programming and timer is in Auto mode and ready to work.
No need to press MODE after programming timer.
Typically, this timer has limited 1 year warranty.

http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/GE-15117-Manual.pdf
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#15117
15117 is not heavy duty timer. Both outlets combined are rated 1000 watts incandescent and 1/4 HP. Check nameplate on your pump for HP rating.

For limited-lifetime-warranty timer, rated 1/3 HP, choose Intermatic HB800RCL 2-outlet timer.
Cost twice as much as GE 15117.
For 1HP outdoor pumps choose Intermatic P1121
http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-timers-and-manuals.html

Aug 08, 2011 | Sport & Outdoor - Others

2 Answers

Defrost not working heavy ice build up around coils


Hi

Frost is a natural occurrence on the evaporator coils in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator. To prevent frost buildup, a self-defrosting refrigerator warms the coils using a defrost heater several times each day to melt away the frost. This frost melts into water and flows out of the compartment through the drain. If any part of the defrost system is not working properly, the result can be heavy frost buildup that may affect the cooling capacity of the refrigerator.

The defrost timer is a mechanism that tells the defroster how long to run to melt the frost. The limit switch measures the temperature in the freezer and helps to maintain it, while the heater is the key element that melts the frost. Any one of these components could need replacement at a given time, which will result in this over-frosting.
Also check this bellow link:-

http://www.ehow.com/how_4504020_test-refrigerator-defrost-timer.html

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

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Mar 01, 2011 | Samsung RS2530BBP (25 cu ft) Side by Side...

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We have a Malibu/Intermatic timer on our landscape lights. This is the second one we have had and it is approximately 4 years old--200W. The last 2-3days, the lights come on at the time that is set but...


The ground shields are _required_ when connecting submersible underwater lights and 12 volt submersible pumps in water gardens and such.

As a licensed electrician, I must tell you to immediately unplug the power pack (transformer) from the 120 volt outlet and _DO_ NOT use it again until this problem has been solved. This is a definite FIRE HAZARD.
Based on what you stated, I strongly recommend replacing the existing 200 watt power pack with an Intermatic ML300RTW Malibu 300-Watt Power Pack or similar 300 WATT transformer.
ADDITIONALLY, I strongly recommend replacing the _entire_ existing main cable run with Intermatic ML12210 Malibu 100-Foot 12/2-Guage Low Voltage Cable. Make sure to get 12 gauge wire.
There are a few things going on here. First, the transformer is being overloaded. I suspect that you are running pretty close to 200 watts or more. Because the tranformer is overloaded it overheats and the solder in the built-in internal thermal overload melts and disconnects the circuit. When the transformer cools some, the solder in the overload solidifies enough to re-establish the circuit. If this cycle is allowed to continue, either the transformer burns out due to heat or starts a fire.
While these transformers are supposed to operate at full capacity, they will wear out quicker when operated in such a manner. For best results, don't operate the transformer at over 80%. For a 200 watt transformer that would be 160 watts ( 200 watts x .80 = 160 watts).
Secondly, I also suspect that the cable has been damaged, possibly when the siding was installed, and there is a short in the cable, which in turn is overloading the transformer. It's also possible that the end of the cable is shorting out.
In this case the only safe solution is to replace the cable. Even if you decide to keep the existing transformer and reduce the total wattage by using smaller watt bulbs or removing some lights, I still highly recommend replacing the cable.
Sorry to be so harsh about this, but this is a _serious_ matter. You've already had a fire in the mulch and melted the vinyl siding. If you don't feel comfortable dealing with this matter, please call a _qualified_ electrician.


Aug 26, 2010 | Hardware & Accessories

1 Answer

Viking side-by-side -- Condensation


It really sounds like the defrost timer is staying on all the time.Have the timer checked.This must be a on going problem with this brand,I am getting a lot of them.So many things could be the problem,but the defrost timer is what really stands out,the defrost timer,does just that,it defrost only a certain short period of time,or it is supposed to.That is how you get frost free.If I can help any more please ask,but have the defrost imer checked ,or replaced.

Jul 24, 2009 | Viking 42 in Built In Professional...

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